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Garden Tractor Nerd
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tractor: Case
Model: 222
Year: 1973
Engine: Kohler K301

While blading some dirt yesterday I could feel that the engine was making, what felt like, solid contact with the frame so I stopped to have a look around. At first I thought one of the rubber mounts had given up but soon located the culprit. The rear engine mounting screw that bolts the mounting plate to the bottom of the engine on the left side has backed out and the head of that screw is making contact with the frame.

Has anyone had to tighten up their engine mounting screws before and if so is there a way of doing that without lifting the engine out to do so? Also, any ideas on if I should use some Loctite on those screws as well? Any help would be appreciated.
:mechanic:​
Kenneth
 

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I could not get those bolts loose to save my life when I swapped engines in my 220. those bolts should be flush with the mounting bracket when installed and they shouldnt back out to a point where they fall out since they will hit the frame like you mentioned. All I can say is to lift the engine up a bit and use the correct size allen wrench to tighten the bolt. I am 99% sure it has an allen head on it too. If you really want peace of mind then you will need to remove the bolts and clean out the crude that has made its way into the threads on both the bolt and the frame and then use red loctite on the cleaned bolts prior to installation.
 

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If that bolt has been loose for any length of time, then you have to worry about the threads in the engine's oil pan. All to often, the loose bolt will damage the threads to the point where they will strip out totally when you tighten the bolt. Your only option then is to remove the engine, drill out the hole and install a Helicoil. You need the special tools for this so a local engine machine shop may be in your future.
 

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Hydriv said:
If that bolt has been loose for any length of time, then you have to worry about the threads in the engine's oil pan.
You lost me here. Please explain as I am trying to remember how exactly these bolts had something to do with the oilpan on the K 301 engine. I could of swore that they held the LH and RH engine mounting plate to the bottom of the engine and the engine basically had 4 threaded blind holes in the bottom of it. I could be wrong though and I dont feel like going to the shed to look as I am scared of the dark. :lol:
 

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The mounting plates have the two rubber isolators in them and the plates bolt to the underside of the engine's oil pan.

Ken is talking about those bolts in his post "The rear engine mounting screw that bolts the mounting plate to the bottom of the engine on the left side has backed out and the head of that screw is making contact with the frame." is he not? You are right that they are blind holes.
 

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I never realized that those bolts threaded into the case for the oil pan. I did go outside to take a look at my setup and I snapped a few pictures. So, getting back to what you said. Yes, if the bolt has been loose for some time then it may have ruined the threads in the blind hole and if that is the case then either the hole will need to be repaired with a helicoil which I believe is 3/8-16 or step up to the next size thread if there is enough material around the old hole. I would go with option one if it was me though. Hopefully its a just a simple fix with an allen wrench though.

You can barely see the bolt between the frame the mounting plate.


 

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I agree with Hydriv, usually the threads are damaged and the best repair is a heliciol insert with new bolts and definately new star lock washers. If the threads are not totally gone, the blind holes are tapped deep enough to use a longer bolt. I think 1" is what I've used. Just be sure as mentioned to clean all the accumulated oil and debris from the holes before reinstalling the bolts. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hydriv said:
Ken is talking about those bolts in his post "The rear engine mounting screw that bolts the mounting plate to the bottom of the engine on the left side has backed out and the head of that screw is making contact with the frame." is he not? You are right that they are blind holes.
Yep, that's the hole I'm referring to. I hope the threads are still in tact.

CASE 220/4 said:
All I can say is to lift the engine up a bit and use the correct size allen wrench to tighten the bolt. I am 99% sure it has an allen head on it too.
This is nice to know. I was wondering what sort of head those screws have. I may have to lift the engine out just to find out what's going on with the threads it sounds like. Thank you for taking the time to take and post pictures. Those are indeed the mounting bolt to which I'm referring.

myerslawnandgarden said:
If the threads are not totally gone, the blind holes are tapped deep enough to use a longer bolt. I think 1" is what I've used.
This is great information as well. Thank you!!!!

So I guess I'll end up taking the engine out or at least elevating it enough to have clear access to the bolts. I thought there might be a different approach.

Kenneth
 

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3/8-16 FLAT HEAD ALLEN (GRADE 8 )
Product ID: 0137
Category:
Description: FLAT HEAD ALLEN (GRADE 8). BOLTS ARE FULLY THREADED UNLESS NOTED,PLAIN FINISH (BLACK),HEX KEY SIZE IS 7/32.
Price: $0.26
Check Volume Discounts
LENGTH
Quantity:

At this link

http://www.allensfasteners.com/search_r ... 0&sortBy=3

Your hex key size be 7/32

Drop down show length available

3/8 - 16 is coarse thread if yours find it be 24 3/8-24
 
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