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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I saw this a while back and couldn't get it out of my mind. A Case rear end turned around with ball joints and spindles for steering. The big hold up was clearance for the hydraulic motor on one side.
I wanted to do it on a 400 frame but since I had two 200 tractors, I used a differential out of one of those.
You can measure all day long but actually putting pieces together, you can make adjustments.
I tack welded the kingpin on the housing and installed the spindle and hub bearing, then I put on a tire and rim to see what I would need for clearance. In one picture you can see a mounted tire turned and clearing the motor. The tires will turn 42 degrees both ways.
The original axle housings are too long, when I cut off the casting, I also cut off the out axle bushing and axle seal. I took the part of the housing I cut of, which had the mount for the bushing and seal, then turned them down to fit in the the original housing. I had my bushing and seal back.
I installed the spindle,bearing and hub with the axle universal, I could then see out long the axles needed to be.
I used Case axle, so the spline would fit in the spider gears
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for your replies;
That is a dana 30 front axle, it is a little be heavy duty for this but then I probably won't break it. It is off a 97 Cherokee so it came with 4 1/2 x 5 wheel flange, same as a 200 series.
The width wheel flange to wheel flange is 39 inches, the stock 200 series was 27 1/2. The tractor will be 11 inches wider, 5 1/2 either side. I have three 400 series tractors and one 220, I never liked the the 220, always felt like I was going to fall off. That ought to make it more stable. As for as the rear wheels aligning up with the front wheels, I haven;t figured that one out yet, sounds like a good time for rear dual wheels or I could extend the rear axles.
I am presently working on mounting the front differential to the frame, it it is going to pivot like the the original axle did. I'll send pics when I figure it out. Case frames are cut out in the back and when I reinforce the frame that could be raised which would level the tractor.
I have two 220's that will be combined to make one tractor, I did the front first because everyone said it couldn't be done because the wheel would not clear the hyd motor.
What am I going to do with it,I don't know. I'm retired,I have a welder and it sounded like a good idea at the time.
More later Bill:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ran into a little set back. I had everything tack welded, last Friday went down to complete welding, that's when I found out I had a bind in one axle/universal.
I immediately assumed that it was some I did not have lined up right. I took the one side apart three times and reassembled it, still had bind. It turned out to be a bent universal yoke from the dana 30. I just got another axle assembly this evening. I.'ll change it and start again.
For 50cal, yes it will have disc brakes, maybe on both differentials?
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Scotticy;
I didn't post the picture but I cut 1/2 inch off the piece from the part I cut off when I shortened the axle tube.
his part has the cutout that holds the seal, then I welded it back on. If you look at this picture, you will see one of the end pieces that hold the sea (the ring)l. have seal out right now, didn't want to screw it up with too much heat welding.
Bill
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I fixed the bind, had to get another axle.
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The sq tube is a brace to keep differential level.
I got the two 200 tractors and started the frame.
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I will use the nicer frame and parts from the other. I want to extend the frame 7" and than adjust for frame height so it sets level. The front is about 5" higher than the back.
I also have to figure a way to connect a snow blade with a front axle in the way.
I thought the front differential was going to be the hard part but it turned out easier than I though. After looking at the frames, there are definitely more challenges to come.
Bill
 
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