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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally had a chance to use the snow caster. Worked great on my drive (paved), but ran into a couple of problems on the neighbors(gravel).
In the float position I was kicking up a lot of stones. Even bounced one off of her house. Dented the siding but missed the window. There was only about an inch or two of light powder. Is that a factor? This is my first time with a snow blower of any kind so I don't have any experience to compare to.
The other issue is with the clutch. I rebuilt it and thought I had it. But after doing mine and half of hers (about 30 min.) the clutch wouldn't disengage. I pull the lever back and it stops, but then it slowly reengages. When I pull back on the lever and hold it turns faster. I can find a spot where it will stop, but any movement of the lever, either forward or back, will engage the clutch. When I shut it down and restart the motor it stays disengaged until I engage it again. It has new springs and pad.
Thanks..
 

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On the outboard edges of your snowcaster are adjustable ski's that will raise the cutting edge when you drop them down in the slots. Gravel driveways always present a challenge for snow clearing whether you use a blower or a blade. These area should be graded as level as possible just before winter sets in and then the first snowfalls should be ignored. Just drive over the snow and pack it down into the gravel to create a smoother surface with no stone protruding. From that point on, snow clearing is a breeze but tire chains are essential along with lots of axle weight. The two driveway surfaces are like night and day. You cannot expect a snowcaster that is set up for cleaning a paved driveway to clear a gravelled drive without it picking up stones.

As for the clutch................


- you did not assemble it correctly

OR

- you did not adjust it correctly


OR

- you have parts that are worn out and need replacing.


Clutches are not something that can be easily diagnosed on a forum. YOU have to go into the Tech Library and study the Clutch Manuals extensively and then dismantle your entire clutch. Inspect every single part carefully. Make sure that the main shaft is not badly grooved or the bearings will hang up on the edges of those grooves. Make sure you have every part shown in the diagram and that every part goes back on the shaft in the correct order. Pay attention to the orientation of the two cams that the throwout fork sits in. The rest is trial and error until you hit on the correct adjustment.
 

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I have a gravel drive as well, and on my Caster I put 8" lawnmower wheels on the outside edges of the caster... They work great!!! no more gravel blowing!
See the pics of my 155 with the wheeled caster in the "winter dress" posting
DJB
 

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I suggest that you get after the clutch issue as soon as possible.

Proper snow will put more demand on the clutch and if it is slipping, it won't throw the snow. Also, a slipping clutch will over heat and ruin other parts. Pretty much everyone struggles with these clutches in the beginning but once you get the hang of it. they are not all that difficult to deal with. :thumbsup:
 

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Hydriv said:
study the Clutch Manuals extensively and then dismantle your entire clutch. Inspect every single part carefully.
When I first got my 444, I had problems with my clutch not staying adjusted similar to what you are describing. I found that some prior owner had taken channel locks or similar to the INNER piece of the 2 piece adjustment nut and rounded the edges. When adjusting the clutch, the outer nut would slip a little without turning the inner nut with it. The problem wasn't evident until everything was disassembled and the 2 pieces were separated. Once I replaced the inner nut, the clutch adjusted properly and has stayed adjusted. I'm not proposing that your problem is the same, just confirming the importance of taking the clutch apart and examining everything closely. :thumbsup:
 
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