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Discussion Starter #1
Well, the 446 Case is broke again. !!!! Finished fixing up the brake, made a new lining, repaired a small leak in the hydrualic line and other small items. Figured I’d take it out for a test run. Got about 30’ outside and it quit. Restarted it, run for about 30 seconds then quit. Hmmm, first time for that. Figured out of gas, no, but put some in any way. Still quit. Checked vent on gas cap. Was ok. So restart run fine then quit. So finally got it back into the garage. Sounds exactly like no fuel trouble. Finally no start. Ideas, please.

Noel
 

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Old Gas lines, due to Ethanol, become soft and sticking on the inside. Did you touch the fuel line?

I had a tractor where I moved the line around to get at a bolt, and that was enough pressure to cause the insides to stick together. Which meant I got to run new fuel line from the tank all of the way to the engine.
 

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I did move it, because it was rubbing against some thing so I figured I'd move it a little to stop that. Only moved it 1/4". But that would figure for my luck.

Noel
 

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I did move it, because it was rubbing against some thing so I figured I'd move it a little to stop that. Only moved it 1/4". But that would figure for my luck.

Noel
I had one so soft back by the tank, I easily pinched it with thumb and forefinger and it stayed pinched.Kind of glued it self together. A quick test, take the fuel line off at the engine and lower it below tank level to check for gravity fuel flow for a minuet.

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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I took the line off the fuel pump and blew back to the tank. It opened, do I rehooked it to the pump and it worked. But then on second try it needed the choke on a little to run. I’d say I’m in for cleaning the tank, line and carb. Had it out blowing some snow today and pulling a stuck Ford out of a snow bank. Lots of fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, took the fuel pump apart and top of carb off, couldn't really find any dirt, blew out what i could with carb cleaner and air, put it all back together and installed a gas filter. Got it running and was adjusting mixture screws, then it quit, and would not restart.:( Found no spark. did a few things and cleaned points. Had spark and it restarted. Let it run, adjusted carb, turned it off and restarted a few times. Seems reasonable, left it off for half hour and tried restarting it and no start. ? So I left it, and went away. :whistle::unsure::confused:
I might look at it today,

Noel
 

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Hi Noel,
I'd do 2 quick tests when it quits running,, since it restarts in relatively short order,
I love my test light for these things,,

1) Stick alligator clip on batt negative and needle on coil positive,, turn key to on, do you have power?

2) Stick alligator onto batt positive, needle onto coil negative, turn key and attempt start,, light should flicker on and off when it sparks,, Do you have spark?

If you answer yes to both tests,, it's more than likely, fuel related,,,

If you answer no to the above, which one is no?
 

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Thanks Lionel, well I might have found the trouble. Its running now. Still not convinced yet, but its a step in the right direction. Found the wires from the condenser and coil, where they connect to the points with the screw, was touching the points cover. My guess is, that over time with people taking the cover on and off squeezed the cover down causing the trouble. So I pounded it, lightly, back out some. Then put a small piece of cardboard, same as a business card, in there to stop shorting. Any way, it starts now, will see what happens tomorrow or when ever I go back. Is there suppose to be something in the points cover from factory to stop the shorting ?

Noel
 

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Thanks Lionel, well I might have found the trouble. Its running now. Still not convinced yet, but its a step in the right direction. Found the wires from the condenser and coil, where they connect to the points with the screw, was touching the points cover. My guess is, that over time with people taking the cover on and off squeezed the cover down causing the trouble. So I pounded it, lightly, back out some. Then put a small piece of cardboard, same as a business card, in there to stop shorting. Any way, it starts now, will see what happens tomorrow or when ever I go back. Is there suppose to be something in the points cover from factory to stop the shorting ?

Noel
Well, that's good that you found your problem.
That I know of, no there isn't something in there to stop shorting. Hard to imagine how this would happen. You didn't by chance, take a picture whiles you were doing it?
 

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Hehe, I snuck up on it today and it Started. Woo hoo. On the road to recovery, hopefully.

Noel
 

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Okay, so perhaps a suggestion?
The red wire goes to the coil?
And the black wire goes to point screw?
Rotate the red wire so the end faces down, and bent it up a bit,,

To me, it looks like the red wire was modified: when I've done these, I've used a insulated ring terminal, and with snips, snip just enough to slide the ring terminal onto points screw, and have both ends facing down. The black wire from the condenser, a couple of twists and it'll coil inwards,,
I've not had this problem, once completed. (I do believe, the wire from points to coil, originally was a white wire,, now the red one on yours) Hard to tell where the wire exists the points cover on yours, just to confirm, ,, from sitting on seat, left side of points holder, closest to seat, has a groove to exit that wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay, so perhaps a suggestion?
The red wire goes to the coil?
And the black wire goes to point screw?
Rotate the red wire so the end faces down, and bent it up a bit,,

To me, it looks like the red wire was modified: when I've done these, I've used a insulated ring terminal, and with snips, snip just enough to slide the ring terminal onto points screw, and have both ends facing down. The black wire from the condenser, a couple of twists and it'll coil inwards,,
I've not had this problem, once completed. (I do believe, the wire from points to coil, originally was a white wire,, now the red one on yours) Hard to tell where the wire exists the points cover on yours, just to confirm, ,, from sitting on seat, left side of points holder, closest to seat, has a groove to exit that wire?
Yes that’s right Lionel. The red wire, which goes to the negative side of the coil, exits in the place you mentioned. Thought about going from the bottom up. But just didn’t look to be much room to do that.
And the wire that comes out of the condenser at the top was also touching the cover, but the wire is not bare there, so it would not do anything. But still it’s touching, but like I said I pushed the metal up abit on the points cover and put cardboard in. So I won’t affect the condenser wire now. Is there a gasket under the points cover to bring it up some maybe. ?

Noel
 

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Yes that’s right Lionel. The red wire, which goes to the negative side of the coil, exits in the place you mentioned. Thought about going from the bottom up. But just didn’t look to be much room to do that.
And the wire that comes out of the condenser at the top was also touching the cover, but the wire is not bare there, so it would not do anything. But still it’s touching, but like I said I pushed the metal up abit on the points cover and put cardboard in. So I won’t affect the condenser wire now. Is there a gasket under the points cover to bring it up some maybe. ?

Noel
Nope,
Metal to metal, cover to base of points holder
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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The condenser can always be mounted on the engine near the coil.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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The condenser can always be mounted on the engine near the coil.

Keep the Peace
Harry
Good point Harry, along with remote mounting, this would be required,, the little clamp holder,, (great site to look over though, I've purchased quite a bit from him, good guy for stuff I needed)

 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Good point Lionel. I have used Kirk transdenser that replaces the condenser on two Onan engines. They both work terrific and should never have to fool with the points again.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 
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