Bit of a warning to CCI LOADER owners, verify where your Throttle and Choke control cables are routed.. Make sure they DO NOT run over top the loader control valve. Or you could wind up with this:
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Working on my '73 - 646, loader and loader control valve leaks oil.. Since I have the engine off for other issues, its a great time to fix the loader valve.. Once I got it out and cleaned up I found that the Throttle and choke controls were routed over top of the valve and were rubbing on the loader lift spool and had worn grooves into it.. also wear patterns can be seen on the casting. The casting is not an issue.
The lift spool is setup like the spools in the TCV with an O ring immediately inside the casting . When the lift spool is locked in the 'float' position, these grooves in the spool are aligned with the O-ring, therefore, NO seal...
Even when the tractors were made the part replacement for the spool 'rod' was to replace the ENTIRE VALVE. Which, 45 years later, Ya.. Umm, not happening..
I guess fortunately this damage is on a less used portion on the valve. But, still every time you lower the loader, this will leak and I had the habit of parking the tractor with the lift control locked in the Float position, so it would sit there and dribble forever.
Based on knowing that others had used 'metal filled epoxy' to fix dings and scratches on Hydraulic cylinder rods, I figured; what have I got to loose? If the epoxy sticks and stays in place great. if it pops out, I'm probably no worse off.
So I scuffed up the grooves with some 80 grit sandpaper, being careful to ONLY scratch inside the area for repair. And then I cleaned the entire rod with Acetone. I also took the rod and the JB Weld into the house and let them adjust to room temps before I started the work. Mixed up standard JB and troweled it into the 'wound'. Let it set all night in the house.
Next morning I carefully filed off much of the excess. Then I put it in the metal lathe to see how close to perfect I could get it. The big thing for me, was to not scratch any of the existing surfaces.. So I turned the JB section down to about .001 oversized.
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"turning" the plastic does not leave a smooth polished surface like the ground surfaces of the spool, and since I have stacks of 1000 grit wet or dry sand paper, I very slowly polished the JB and the shaft to final size.
So far, it fits in the valve and slides well with new O Rings. I'll report back once I get the tractor back together and running as to how the repair works. Wish me luck..
Working on my '73 - 646, loader and loader control valve leaks oil.. Since I have the engine off for other issues, its a great time to fix the loader valve.. Once I got it out and cleaned up I found that the Throttle and choke controls were routed over top of the valve and were rubbing on the loader lift spool and had worn grooves into it.. also wear patterns can be seen on the casting. The casting is not an issue.
The lift spool is setup like the spools in the TCV with an O ring immediately inside the casting . When the lift spool is locked in the 'float' position, these grooves in the spool are aligned with the O-ring, therefore, NO seal...
Even when the tractors were made the part replacement for the spool 'rod' was to replace the ENTIRE VALVE. Which, 45 years later, Ya.. Umm, not happening..
I guess fortunately this damage is on a less used portion on the valve. But, still every time you lower the loader, this will leak and I had the habit of parking the tractor with the lift control locked in the Float position, so it would sit there and dribble forever.
Based on knowing that others had used 'metal filled epoxy' to fix dings and scratches on Hydraulic cylinder rods, I figured; what have I got to loose? If the epoxy sticks and stays in place great. if it pops out, I'm probably no worse off.
So I scuffed up the grooves with some 80 grit sandpaper, being careful to ONLY scratch inside the area for repair. And then I cleaned the entire rod with Acetone. I also took the rod and the JB Weld into the house and let them adjust to room temps before I started the work. Mixed up standard JB and troweled it into the 'wound'. Let it set all night in the house.
Next morning I carefully filed off much of the excess. Then I put it in the metal lathe to see how close to perfect I could get it. The big thing for me, was to not scratch any of the existing surfaces.. So I turned the JB section down to about .001 oversized.
"turning" the plastic does not leave a smooth polished surface like the ground surfaces of the spool, and since I have stacks of 1000 grit wet or dry sand paper, I very slowly polished the JB and the shaft to final size.
So far, it fits in the valve and slides well with new O Rings. I'll report back once I get the tractor back together and running as to how the repair works. Wish me luck..
