[Fatbob]

The wire coming out of the rectifer is only putting out 1.4 volts at 3500 RPM. I think the hack job wiring done to it before I got it fried the thing. Any tests I should do before replacing it? How do I check the stator?

 

[Snotrocket]

Put your tester on the two wires coming into the rectifier from the stator.

A bad rectifier is a pretty common problem. :thumbsup:

 

[mikebramel]

Right, make sure the meter is on AC V if its running, and 1K ohms not running when measuring across the stator. Also check the grounds for the stator.

 

[Fatbob]

Picked up a rectifier. The stator is putting out 26 volts AC. The local "no returns of electrical parts" sold me one for a 10 HP briggs 16 amp with assurance it'll work fine. WRONG. Still have 26 volts AC from the stator. 1.4 volts from the rectifier to the Batt. Guess I blew $60.00 bucks on that one. Any suggestions. :thumbdown:

 

[mikebramel]

No it will work when hooked up right. Check your connections. Sounds like there is too much resistance from corrosion or rust. If you had a meter you could measure the resistance.

 

[Snotrocket]

You should have spent $20 of that on a decent meter!!! :lol: :lol:

Being able to check whether or not your wires are connected is essential in electrical diagnostic.


You can buy the correct rectifier from Brian for around $40 I believe. The newer style is about 1/4th the size of the original as well.

 

[Stewart]

Picked up a rectifier. The stator is putting out 26 volts AC. The local "no returns of electrical parts" sold me one for a 10 HP briggs 16 amp with assurance it'll work fine. WRONG. Still have 26 volts AC from the stator. 1.4 volts from the rectifier to the Batt. Guess I blew $60.00 bucks on that one. Any suggestions. :thumbdown:

Bob

Run a ground wire from the rectifier back to the battery, Might Help

Stewart

 

[Fatbob]

You should have spent $20 of that on a decent meter!!! :lol: :lol:

Being able to check whether or not your wires are connected is essential in electrical diagnostic.

You can buy the correct rectifier from Brian for around $40 I believe. The newer style is about 1/4th the size of the original as well.

Dawg, I think the $200.00 Fluke meter I have is good enough. :thumbup: I'll get back on it tomorrow when the patience factor is a little better. :crazy:

 

[gator_rider2]

1.4 volts is led voltage from stator meaning if 12 volts coming into rectifier from battery you have 13.4 and charging system be ok. As surface charge on battery rises to 13 you have 14.4. Rectifier cut down on led voltage so ampere guage go near 0. If get that 12 volt to rectifier all be good.

 

[Stewart]

Bob

It's a long shot but did you switch the meter to DCV to test the rectifier output.??

Stewart

 

[Fatbob]

I got it. I had it hooked up wrong at the ignition switch. It has to have 12 volts to excite the winding to charge properly was how it was explained to me rather rudely by my Horse's ass Son that loves to harass his old man. Dang smart ass bubble head. I guess after serving our great country for 14 years in the Navy, I won't smack him upside the head when he comes in for a visit. :sidelaugh:

 

[Greg]

You should have spent $20 of that on a decent meter!!! :lol: :lol:

Being able to check whether or not your wires are connected is essential in electrical diagnostic.

You can buy the correct rectifier from Brian for around $40 I believe. The newer style is about 1/4th the size of the original as well.

No doubt, I recd my rectifer from Garys yesterday and WOW it sure is tiny...