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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's some pics of Speaker 777's with 1156 bulbs.

Looking out the garage from behind the tractor


Same view from beside the front of the tractor. The small white thing is a sign about 45' away


No explanation needed. (I hope) :sidelaugh:
 

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big difference from 3 watts to 50 huh. Those bulbs should have been a plug and play swap correct? I believe they have the same style base. If anyone is thinking of doing that swap then be careful with the plastic lens. Those bulbs will also pull more amps then the 1156 bulbs
 

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CASE 220/4 said:
big difference from 3 watts to 50 huh. Those bulbs should have been a plug and play swap correct? I believe they have the same style base. If anyone is thinking of doing that swap then be careful with the plastic lens. Those bulbs will also pull more amps then the 1156 bulbs
I would not use those bulbs UNLESS I had the Speaker 777 glass lenses. As for Brad's last comment, a 3 watt lamp pulls only one quarter of an ampere compared to more than 4 ampere's of a 50 watt lamp. This is OK providing you do not leave the tractor running at an idle for extended periods. Whether you have an alternator or a start/gen unit, they only put out 15 amps when the engine is running at close to wide open throttle. Too much power going to the lamps combined with too little power coming from the recharge circuit means that the battery gets discharged instead of recharged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm with Hydriv on the lens issue, I think the 780 lens would melt on a short order. They do get pretty warm. I'm not sure what the contact rating is on the switch for the lights either. My switch had been replaced by the PO with one that doesn't have a "lights" position. There was a hole in the dash where I removed an electric clutch that the PO also had installed. I used that hole for a new switch fed off the battery thru an inline fuse. I also ran a direct ground from the battery (neg) to the clip that holds in the light, then ran a jumper from that light bucket to the other one using ring terminals between the clips and the hood. I noticed there is not a really good way to run wiring for the headlights on these tractors so while I'm working on the other one (the '74), I think I will run a piece of steel tubing along the inside of the frame for the wiring on that one. It's nice to have two tractors- One all together so I can see where to run the tubing on the other so as not to be in the way when I put it back together.
 

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Billygoat said:
I noticed there is not a really good way to run wiring for the headlights on these tractors so while I'm working on the other one (the '74), I think I will run a piece of steel tubing along the inside of the frame for the wiring on that one. .
:+1: I use "wire and cable loom" , rubber hose works well also
 

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Tom, thanks for explaining the amp issue. I was on my phone trying to respond and I can't stand typing on it. Before anyone goes and decides to replace the stock bulbs because they think the light output is too dim make sure the headlight socket is getting sufficient voltage. The factory 30 plus year old wiring builds up corrosion and creates resistance in that circuit. It is not hard to replace the wiring if it shows signs of corrosion.
Also, the lights are not going to be very bright if you have cloudy plastic lens' and the housing is all rusty. Replace them if needed and then make your decision if you think you need a few more watts.
 
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