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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New here, but have been on MTF for 10 yrs. And since, as I mentioned in my intro yesterday, I have a number of brands in my stable. But since the "elephant in the room" is my Case, I joined here to start the long anticipated overhaul / restore.
My wife told me to buy it.:wife: Yes, not only did she tell me about seeing it on her way to work, she insisted I buy it-REALLY.
Now if I only knew what it is. Forget the John Deere emblems, previous owner's father-in-law put them on it. $400 for tractor and hydraulic dump trailer. Couldn't pass it up.
But first some pics.


The last shot is the hydraulic dump trailer that came along with it.
Now, just a couple of things that "may" stand out. Mirrors - think off a Ford Econoline, PO didn't like turning around. Color, you mean that's not standard Case safety yellow???:shock:Oh yeah did you happen to see the "sticker?" With those last two clues bet you already figured out that the PO was a JD fan. Well of the yellow part at least. Guess the green - not so much.

And in regards to my above reference to the "elephant in the room" you'll see on the right, in the following pic, the Case sitting on the lift, where it has been waiting for me to work on it since I brought it home more than five years ago. The good news is that the garage floor is pretty much clear as so the area around the lift table. (well just about)


The bad news, well when the PO painted this, any ID numbers disappeared. The SN plate has been discarded by PO, just a couple of holes where the rivets used to be. The best bet that we came up with in was 73/74.

That's my story (at least part of it) and I'm sticking to it.
MikeC
 

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That JD wanna be actual is not that bad (no green) :wink: But we have seen some Freddy Kruger looking JD paint jobs over the years :wtf::crying::speechless: They would have looked better as a rust bucket :raspberry: Being a heavy equipment operator, I could live with the yellow paint but would need some Case decals.
I am kind of partial to the old tire tread pattern like this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CASE-Decal...198434?hash=item59096c8da2:g:9RQAAOSwzrBaqU1l

Or this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Backh...653022?hash=item28124bdb1e:g:VwQAAOSwezVWxRgd

:cheers:
Gordy
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Thanks for posting the get off my Case decal Gordy. I like it and am going to pick one up. Not for my tractor but my Man Cave! :cool:

Keep the Peace :trink:
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. Since the tractor isn't ready for work at least I could make use of the trailer. Put together a portable hydralic plant and use it in the back of the ATV. I use it to cart truck loads of ditch scrapings down into the woods where I've been making a road for the past few years. Works real good.
MikeC
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Thanks for posting the get off my Case decal Gordy. I like it and am going to pick one up. Not for my tractor but my Man Cave! :cool:

Keep the Peace :trink:
Harry
Ran across that one while looking for the first one. I thought some one would get a kick out of it :razz: Glad you liked it :clap:

:cheers:
Gordy
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hello Newsman,

Your correct regarding the model year, it's a 1973 production as a 1974 would have the pto engagement lever on the LH side of the dash tower.

Bob
Thanks Bob, now on to my problem When I first acquired this, and after careful scrutiny from members on MTF, there was a consensus that this tractor fell in the SN series 9661261 - 9677448 and I see that indeed Brian has a parts manual on his site that corresponds to that braket. Now when I look at charts I have seen from Case, the SN break isn't as clean as that and makes me thing possibly 72.

neww 444 dates.png Now what do I have to do to verify so that I can order manuals (service) and parts. Pixs of anything specific to help ID. Or and I needlessly worrying about something that is only a problem in my mind?
MikeC
 

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Newsman,

Your tractor is definitely a 1973 production year as the engine has the isolation mounts rather than being bolted solid to the frame. 1973 was the first year for that feature. I believe the confusion is due to the fact that the chart you have is for the calendar year of production, not the model year.

Here is a link to download the correct parts manual:

http://eastmanind.com.mytempweb.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=uG/J9bfRUug=&tabid=196

If you want a paper copy we have them available for $19.81.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bob, guess that may be as the chart I copied is the one from Case that says "Model Production By Serial Number." All I know (which ain't much) is that not having a SN is going to make my life difficult.
MikeC
 

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MikeC, I agree. Life is difficult when the serial number is missing. I have around the same vintage 446 that I *think* is a 1973 model, but am not entirely sure either. Mine does have the PTO lever on the left side of the console, but being a 446 , not a 444 like yours, I really can't be too sure. So I guess. Mine is Desert tan and Power red, and has not been repainted, so...I think I am in there somewhere.
------Metalguy
 

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metalguy,

With the PTO lever on the left side it is a 1974 model year production but very likely could have been built late in '83 just like the model years of automobiles.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I can't believe I started this thread almost two years ago to the day:rolleyes: and here I sit , once again trying to figure out why It's not done yet. Heck it has had "pride of place" on the lift in the garage since it was rolled in there many moons ago!:confused:
Guess I'm giving new meaning to "slow but steady wins the race." I've certainly got the "slow" down pat, but "steady" ... not so much.
But there's news!:eek:
Work has commenced. FINALLY!
First thoughts were to strip it down, all of it, every nut and bolt. Get rid of the yellow and then paint. Then common sense took over... actually my buddy told me I was an idiot and should make sure it runs before doing all that. Can't believe I gave him the line that all of has heard at least once and probably more... IT RAN WHEN I PARKED IT!!!
So now we are doing what he suggested. Well at least I am. He disappeared and hasn't been back.o_O
So it's sort of an add parts and check the rest. The parts I'm adding are one's I purchased after folks on MTF told me I was missing after looking at the pictures. Like brakes and a shifter for the two speeds.
So got started today.
Needed to take few things off to enable better access. The rear wheels along with the C110847 weights.
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And there are a couple weights on the rear as picture up top of this thread. But after taking one off...
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which by the way are darn heavy (thank goodness I missed by foot) I shot a pix to give you an idea of the compact size.
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Much heavier than the wheel weights.
Got the brake assembly on
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a bit more disassembly and basic cleaning. There's a lot more of that to do as this was spouting a major hydro leak, but looking at the bright side, no rust underneath. Just like Fluid Film. The leak was from some poorly brazed (one tube) and one poorly glued with JB Weld. Both of those lines have been replaced.
As you can see there is some progress, I know it's not much but it is a start. And as "they" say (who ever they are" you have to start somewhere.
But you also have to stop somewhere so today ended with me trying to replace the two speed shifting unit. (which was non existent) Another one of my purchases.
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Stopping because I have to figure out how to get the gas tank out so that I can access the two bottom bolts. And of course while I have the tank out time for cleaning that.
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This last shot is of the dash but not sure what to do about the opening over the throttle lever. I would think that use to be something to prevent stuff falling through, or not.
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So tomorrow cleaning the carb and replacing old rubber hoses. Ordering some tubes for the cracked 8 - 16 tires, which do hold air. I am not so naive to think this will be a quick project, but it is now a WORK IN PROGRESS which considering I bought this in 2013 (at my wife's insistence,) all I can say is It's about time!
MikeC
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Looks great Mike and glad to see your getting it done. I know your moving in the right direction and that is good news.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Day 2:
More questions than progress.
First: This doesn't look right to me but then again... The grove for belt on engine is quite a bit small than what's on starter gen. Actually from the notch it appears to be one that was could have been used to pull start engine. Is is alright running as is or is the pulley on SG wrong one? Had always understood that belt shouldn't sit so deep in pulley.
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What's with the resister? Did these use to be six volt systems? It wasn't wired in so I figure just take off-if it's not needed.
121312


Having mentioned the serious hydro leak which kept the bottom from rusting, ;) I'm wondering if the mounts are in better condition than I feel they have a right to be. Maybe getting soaked in oil kept them pliable. I see no cracking and they do "seem" to be doing the job when trying to move engine back and forth -it doesn't. I may also answer my own question when I start it up in couple of days.🤞
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121314


And now to the question that I'm pretty sure I know the answer too, but I'll ask anyway. As mentioned above I need to remove the gas tank to get the two screws out so I can install the plate with the hi / lo selector. And since I couldn't see any way around it, off came the right fender, but the left one appears will be a royal pain.
121315


The weight box/ hitch will have to come off and it appears that the hydraulic valve secured with the three screws holding the back plate covering access to the tank mounts also has to come out.

121316


So here's my thoughts about this. Don't really want to disconnect valve because A) may be problematic because of condition of couple of the fittings. (will be taken care of later date) Also don't want to change screwing up hydraulics because won't be able to continue with engine run up. Sound plausible?
Reallyt want to finch cleaning carb and hooking aux gas tank and test fire it and run it around a bit for shakedown cruise.
Also, and this refers to the part about knowing the answer, the fill location for the rear is located behind the back plate of the weight box! Isn't it? Can alway cut a hole in that plate but that still means having to remove those weights. every time it needs checking. And at 76 yrs old, not an enjoyable task. Of course perhaps they is a way to reroute the fill, much like extending the oil drain to make it more accessible. Something to ponder.

Enough for the time being. Although there is this little addendum. After I know it rums well I will be attempting, with help form this group, to attach the TCV w/holding valve that I purchased couple yrs ago.


Think this is same. I've got a Travel Control Valve 1245-1R CDEFG. Gee sure hope it fits!:devilish: Oh my, what if it doesn't? Thgink I'll have any trouble moving it?:)
MikeC
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
OK then. Guess folks might consider me a stubborn old man and my wife would probably agree. At 76 I can't argue about the old part, but as far as stubborn? No, I like to think that I'm persistent and also think outside the box. I know that a lot of you have the same problem that I often encounter when working alone. Just need that third hand. You know when your threading a bolt from underneath and you just can't reach the top side to put on the washer and nut. Well I generally call my wife out from the house but lately she's been going to my daughter's house quite a bit to help out with our second grandchild, a little girl born two weeks ago.
So this problem removing the stuff blocking getting the gas tank out needed a bit more than a third hand. I needed someone to stand around and hold it. When I put the hoist in I positioned it to cover the front portion of the lift. Then the tractor would be positioned with the appropriate area under the hoist. This time it is over the engine, figuring it would be needed if I strip this all the way down for paint.
But my problem is in the back. Nothing else to do since carb is in ultrasonic cleaning tank. Got a half hr or so. Hmm, drill a hole in a joist, screw in a hook over the hydraulic valve, hook it up and unbolt the control valve. Chain keeps it in position without having to risk damaging while unhooking the rest of the stuff.
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So weight box and hitch out, gas tank removed and the plate w/ Hi / Lo selector is back in.

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I think everything is OK, but just cking. When lever is down and on the peg that should be Hi, right?
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And above the peg - Lo.
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Doesn't really have a noticeable spot that would be neutral. Just going by the way it is labeled. Makes it seem as there is a distinct spot for neutral.
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Oh well, all in all not a bad day. Oh yeah the carb came out clean as a whistle so button that up tomorrow as well as cleaning tank, although actually it's pretty clean no corrosion or rust inside. Run new hose and button up the back side. Then guess it's just seeing what other trouble I can get into.
MikeC
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They sure did a lot of work to paint that yellow. Maybe the previous owner of my Roof brush mower also owned your Case?
 

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Mike it is in neutral when the hole in the lever is positioned into the peg. Above peg low and below the peg High.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 
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