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1982 446 1988 446
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently put the J26 3 point hitch on my other 446 and I'm looking to build a HH34 3 point or even a hybrid between the HH34 and J26. I want something a bit more heavy duty for my Super 446 diesel build. The HH34 is ridiculously expensive and I believe it can be built much cheaper.

I have the blueprints for the J26 3 point but there are none out there for the HH34. I have the skill and capability to design a HH34 but don't have any good dimensions to go off of.

I did find this post by @sdunt and it has been a great start but I need some more specific information to keep going with this design. Thank you sir for posting these pictures!


I have also found @bobneumann built his own as well.

If anyone would please help out with specific dimensions for the HH34, I'd be more than glad to design the hitch and components and share with everyone. I don't want anything out of this, I'd be just happy to share the blueprints for others to use as they see fit.

I'd also be more than happy to pay for shipping both ways and some extra for their trouble if someone would be interested in sending me the main body of the HH34 to get the dimensions as well.

I have the main bracket roughly designed to the dimensions that @sdunt posted. I did what I could do with the pictures and kind of guessed at it as well. Here is the start.





Any help on this would be greatly appreciated and would be an awesome contribution to this website.
 

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I'd be glad to post the measurements of what I built, but I doubt if it's very helpful. I started off building a J26, and got the back plate mostly done. And then shelved it for 3 or 4 years. When I resumed, I cut out and redid a lot of my first effort, and then carried on from there modeled after the hh34 concept, but not to hh34 measurements. And built to Category 1 specifications instead of Cat 0.

So I ended up with a hybrid. Perfectly useful, but absolutely non-standard.

Anyone who wishes to copy it is welcome to, but I suspect most folks, especially purists, would want to stay closer to standard.

Bob
 

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1982 446 1988 446
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd be glad to post the measurements of what I built, but I doubt if it's very helpful. I started off building a J26, and got the back plate mostly done. And then shelved it for 3 or 4 years. When I resumed, I cut out and redid a lot of my first effort, and then carried on from there modeled after the hh34 concept, but not to hh34 measurements. And built to Category 1 specifications instead of Cat 0.

So I ended up with a hybrid. Perfectly useful, but absolutely non-standard.

Anyone who wishes to copy it is welcome to, but I suspect most folks, especially purists, would want to stay closer to standard.

Bob
I appreciate that! I'm more with you on building/modifying something to work better which is what I plan on doing.

However if I can keep the main body as close as possible to the HH34 that would be great and I'm sure like you said most would like as well.

What I plan on doing is running the HH34 main body BUT possibly use the J26 lower lift and keep the upper lift arms straight like the J26. This will better suit my current rear PTO setup.

But I really like how the HH34 brings the links back a smidge to utilize the new design sway control link.

Like you I also plan on running the Cat 1 swivels at the back of the lower lift arms to use both Cat 0 and Cat 1 implements.
 

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What software are you using to do the 3D CAD? I'd love to do some strength analysis of what you make vs. the stock hitch I have. I plan on eventually redesigning the hitch but the J26 I have now is more than enough for my needs. I believe the J26 is far more sturdy than people here seem to give it credit for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I use fusion 360 but I'm just a beginner lol. The last time I ever really used any kind of cad software was almost 20 years ago in votech.

You maybe be right. If I can't get anyone to help with the HH34 dimensions I may just re design the J26 to use the newer style sway control.
 

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I use fusion 360 but I'm just a beginner lol. The last time I ever really used any kind of cad software was almost 20 years ago in votech.

You maybe be right. If I can't get anyone to help with the HH34 dimensions I may just re design the J26 to use the newer style sway control.
I've never used Fusion 360 so I can't help you much there but if you get some plans drawn up I'd love to see them. For 1/3 of the day I'm a CAD desk jockey with a fancy piece of paper that has my name on it so I enjoy seeing other people's thoughts and ideas on paper and come to life. There was a neat post on here a while ago where they used clamps on the axle shafts next to the 3pt to create sway links that seem to work pretty well. I can't seem to find the post now but maybe someone with better memory or google-fu can link it here for you to get some ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm sure gonna try at least. The diesel engine is at least twice as heavy if not three times as heavy. I can barely lift it myself.

I'm also running the John Deere combine weights that are 168 lbs each.

Mostly looking at a box blade that they call modified cat 1 I believe. Nothing much more than that.
 

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I'm sure gonna try at least. The diesel engine is at least twice as heavy if not three times as heavy. I can barely lift it myself.

I'm also running the John Deere combine weights that are 168 lbs each.

Mostly looking at a box blade that they call modified cat 1 I believe. Nothing much more than that.
I would think it would be much easier to convert the cat 1 equipment to cat zero. Cat 1 arms are quite a bit longer which takes even more weight off the front and throws off your draft. Then without stiffening your frame in the middle it’ll be short lived I’d think.
 

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To me it's about universality: I built my arms to the original Case factory length, but put Cat 1 swivel eyes on them. If I need to attach Cat 0, I have bushings to put in the swivels. So I can attach to either category.

That way I can be certain that I can attach to any small-ish 3 pt. implement. Unless the implement is just physically too large to handle, I don't have to worry about which Category it was made for.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yep exactly what Bob said. I'm not making the hitch to cat 1 just the swivels. There are quite a few Implements I've seen that all you have to do is flip the pins inside and your good to go. I've been really eyeing up the new TSC box blade but I don't care for the price tag.
 

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Cat 1 as you know is wider on the lower pins but also a lot higher to the top link. In order to keep somewhat correct geometry, you will have to raise the top link pivot/attachment point somewhere about the middle of the seat back. Just a friendly heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
So at this point.... with the lack of information on the HH34 I'm going to continue on with the hybrid J26.

I like what @scottlcy did with his and plan on doing something similar.

I'd like to do a swivel on the top of the lift links. The stock design causes a lot of wear with the pins just flopping around however they want. So I'm going to double the lift arms (one on each side of the swivel) so there is no twisting of the arm when lifting. The bottom of the lift arms would be that fork style to prevent the lower lift arms from twisting.

The biggest problem is the sway control. While it gets the job done? The factory chains just suck and pretty sure everyone knows this.

@DDudeinar I believe this is the post you are referring to.


When working linkages geometry can be an issue without binding. Having a little experience with building offroad vehicles, I believe I can tackle this.

The sway control or stabilizer needs to at least have the same pivot point as the lower lift arms. If the pivot point is exactly the same then the sway bar can be any length because the arc will be the same.

If the pivot point is behind (to the rear of the tractor) the arcs will be different and bind before the lift arms reach full swing in either direction. With this short of an arm it will be magnified a lot.

If the sway bar pivots before (to the front of the tractor) this should work as the length will help. It will still bind but not as bad.

Anyway I'd like to do something like these sway bars from messicks for the kubota BX. If I use 1"x1.5"x.120" wall steel tubing and .75"x1.25" bar, they should slip in and out of each other fairly easily.



It looks like the BX has a wing that pivots in the center on the same pivot as the lift arms. If I can replicate this that would be great! I'm not sure how much room though to do this in the center between the arms.

Maybe I can attach them to the sleeve hitch points on the axle or the tubes as well.
 

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I have 4 tractors with sway bars very similar to the one you pictured, although they attach to the outside of the arm with the other end connected to the axle. They work excellent! My Case uses the stock sway chains, also work good, although I made a little different attachment point to the top of the drawbar. The early style 3 point works just fine for a GT once you eliminate the 40 years of wear. Now, if you are going to use the tractor commercially, maybe run a tiller or rear blade 10-14 hours a day for 4 months at a time, well then by all means upgrade the hitch to all heim joints ect.
 

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So at this point.... with the lack of information on the HH34 I'm going to continue on with the hybrid J26.

I like what @scottlcy did with his and plan on doing something similar.

I'd like to do a swivel on the top of the lift links. The stock design causes a lot of wear with the pins just flopping around however they want. So I'm going to double the lift arms (one on each side of the swivel) so there is no twisting of the arm when lifting. The bottom of the lift arms would be that fork style to prevent the lower lift arms from twisting.

The biggest problem is the sway control. While it gets the job done? The factory chains just suck and pretty sure everyone knows this.

@DDudeinar I believe this is the post you are referring to.


When working linkages geometry can be an issue without binding. Having a little experience with building offroad vehicles, I believe I can tackle this.

The sway control or stabilizer needs to at least have the same pivot point as the lower lift arms. If the pivot point is exactly the same then the sway bar can be any length because the arc will be the same.

If the pivot point is behind (to the rear of the tractor) the arcs will be different and bind before the lift arms reach full swing in either direction. With this short of an arm it will be magnified a lot.

If the sway bar pivots before (to the front of the tractor) this should work as the length will help. It will still bind but not as bad.

Anyway I'd like to do something like these sway bars from messicks for the kubota BX. If I use 1"x1.5"x.120" wall steel tubing and .75"x1.25" bar, they should slip in and out of each other fairly easily.



It looks like the BX has a wing that pivots in the center on the same pivot as the lift arms. If I can replicate this that would be great! I'm not sure how much room though to do this in the center between the arms.

Maybe I can attach them to the sleeve hitch points on the axle or the tubes as well.
My lift links are center links cut in half. Between the arm they bolt to and the head of the bolt the ball socket is pretty limited in movement.
 

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So at this point.... with the lack of information on the HH34 I'm going to continue on with the hybrid J26.

I like what @scottlcy did with his and plan on doing something similar.

I'd like to do a swivel on the top of the lift links. The stock design causes a lot of wear with the pins just flopping around however they want. So I'm going to double the lift arms (one on each side of the swivel) so there is no twisting of the arm when lifting. The bottom of the lift arms would be that fork style to prevent the lower lift arms from twisting.

The biggest problem is the sway control. While it gets the job done? The factory chains just suck and pretty sure everyone knows this.

@DDudeinar I believe this is the post you are referring to.


When working linkages geometry can be an issue without binding. Having a little experience with building offroad vehicles, I believe I can tackle this.

The sway control or stabilizer needs to at least have the same pivot point as the lower lift arms. If the pivot point is exactly the same then the sway bar can be any length because the arc will be the same.

If the pivot point is behind (to the rear of the tractor) the arcs will be different and bind before the lift arms reach full swing in either direction. With this short of an arm it will be magnified a lot.

If the sway bar pivots before (to the front of the tractor) this should work as the length will help. It will still bind but not as bad.

Anyway I'd like to do something like these sway bars from messicks for the kubota BX. If I use 1"x1.5"x.120" wall steel tubing and .75"x1.25" bar, they should slip in and out of each other fairly easily.



It looks like the BX has a wing that pivots in the center on the same pivot as the lift arms. If I can replicate this that would be great! I'm not sure how much room though to do this in the center between the arms.

Maybe I can attach them to the sleeve hitch points on the axle or the tubes as well.
Also, just to add I was able to use Kubota BX lift links for my 3pt. It is a J26 and has aftermarket arms and the BX lift links work darn near perfectly. You get good lift with them all the way pulled together and you get some good travel for angle control left and right. I managed to get them from tractor supply for like $20 each. Interested to see the stabilizer bar set up you come up with!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also, just to add I was able to use Kubota BX lift links for my 3pt. It is a J26 and has aftermarket arms and the BX lift links work darn near perfectly. You get good lift with them all the way pulled together and you get some good travel for angle control left and right. I managed to get them from tractor supply for like $20 each. Interested to see the stabilizer bar set up you come up with!
Do you have any pictures of your setup and which links you're referring to from the BX?
 
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