Here's a $30 option at Tractor Supply:
So I have the j26 on my 444, but i built the lower arms and the side links. What i've learned about the Case setup in particular is that on the J26 design the fact that the rockshaft arms go out straight sort of dictates that your lower arms also need to go out straight, which means they have to be bent outwards somewhere past where the side/lift links attach. If you have straight lower arms which angle out and then hook lift links from your straight rockshaft arms to them, the rockshaft arms get a bending/twisting force from picking up on something that isn't directly below them. So you can either put the angle in the rockshaft arms or in the lower arms but ideally the lift link itself would remain nearly vertical between the two.
It's also somewhat important that the attachment from the lift link to the lower arm be a 'clevis yoke' that goes around both sides, because if you don't center the lift force over the lower arm it will have a tendency to twist it as far as the ball ends will allow, which might be fine or might not depending on how you look at it.
The length of the lower arms takes away from your lift capacity, but if you make them TOO short it will just limit your lift height instead by running the implement into the back of your tires as you raise it.
Cat 1 top link pin is farther up from the lower draw pins than on Cat0, as someone already said. You can leave the stock top link attachment point alone on the tractor side but what will happen is as you raise the implement, it will also tilt forwards. For many things this does not matter as the only time it needs to be at a particular angle is when it's touching the ground. A power top link also makes this mostly not matter. The fact that we don't have a pto shaft with limited 'compression travel' and u-joint angle to worry about, also makes it not matter much.
I intend to modify my j26 a lot further by adding the deck lift cylinder on the other side (attached at a different radius because of its different stroke length), redoing my lower arms and lift links, and putting a power top link on it at some point. But the tractor itself would still not be useful for most of my Cat1 implements which i use on my Kubota B6100 because of weight/traction. I have not added enough weight to my Case to give it useful 1wd (open diff no steering brakes 2wd) traction for dragging actual cat 1 ground engaging implements. But i frequently use it for a landscape rake, carryall/pallet forks, a small ripper/plow thing i made, and pulling cars around occasionally. I have a ~40" dethatcher i am probably going to double the size of to ~80" , and it could probably still use that well. After i am done with all upgrades I would hope it could use a ~5ft angle blade 'ok' but not great. So hopefully your expectations are calibrated properly about what you could accomplish with cat1 implements.
Hope that helped any.
So I have the j26 on my 444, but i built the lower arms and the side links. What i've learned about the Case setup in particular is that on the J26 design the fact that the rockshaft arms go out straight sort of dictates that your lower arms also need to go out straight, which means they have to be bent outwards somewhere past where the side/lift links attach. If you have straight lower arms which angle out and then hook lift links from your straight rockshaft arms to them, the rockshaft arms get a bending/twisting force from picking up on something that isn't directly below them. So you can either put the angle in the rockshaft arms or in the lower arms but ideally the lift link itself would remain nearly vertical between the two.
It's also somewhat important that the attachment from the lift link to the lower arm be a 'clevis yoke' that goes around both sides, because if you don't center the lift force over the lower arm it will have a tendency to twist it as far as the ball ends will allow, which might be fine or might not depending on how you look at it.
The length of the lower arms takes away from your lift capacity, but if you make them TOO short it will just limit your lift height instead by running the implement into the back of your tires as you raise it.
Cat 1 top link pin is farther up from the lower draw pins than on Cat0, as someone already said. You can leave the stock top link attachment point alone on the tractor side but what will happen is as you raise the implement, it will also tilt forwards. For many things this does not matter as the only time it needs to be at a particular angle is when it's touching the ground. A power top link also makes this mostly not matter. The fact that we don't have a pto shaft with limited 'compression travel' and u-joint angle to worry about, also makes it not matter much.
I intend to modify my j26 a lot further by adding the deck lift cylinder on the other side (attached at a different radius because of its different stroke length), redoing my lower arms and lift links, and putting a power top link on it at some point. But the tractor itself would still not be useful for most of my Cat1 implements which i use on my Kubota B6100 because of weight/traction. I have not added enough weight to my Case to give it useful 1wd (open diff no steering brakes 2wd) traction for dragging actual cat 1 ground engaging implements. But i frequently use it for a landscape rake, carryall/pallet forks, a small ripper/plow thing i made, and pulling cars around occasionally. I have a ~40" dethatcher i am probably going to double the size of to ~80" , and it could probably still use that well. After i am done with all upgrades I would hope it could use a ~5ft angle blade 'ok' but not great. So hopefully your expectations are calibrated properly about what you could accomplish with cat1 implements.
Hope that helped any.
