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Here's a $30 option at Tractor Supply:

So I have the j26 on my 444, but i built the lower arms and the side links. What i've learned about the Case setup in particular is that on the J26 design the fact that the rockshaft arms go out straight sort of dictates that your lower arms also need to go out straight, which means they have to be bent outwards somewhere past where the side/lift links attach. If you have straight lower arms which angle out and then hook lift links from your straight rockshaft arms to them, the rockshaft arms get a bending/twisting force from picking up on something that isn't directly below them. So you can either put the angle in the rockshaft arms or in the lower arms but ideally the lift link itself would remain nearly vertical between the two.

It's also somewhat important that the attachment from the lift link to the lower arm be a 'clevis yoke' that goes around both sides, because if you don't center the lift force over the lower arm it will have a tendency to twist it as far as the ball ends will allow, which might be fine or might not depending on how you look at it.

The length of the lower arms takes away from your lift capacity, but if you make them TOO short it will just limit your lift height instead by running the implement into the back of your tires as you raise it.

Cat 1 top link pin is farther up from the lower draw pins than on Cat0, as someone already said. You can leave the stock top link attachment point alone on the tractor side but what will happen is as you raise the implement, it will also tilt forwards. For many things this does not matter as the only time it needs to be at a particular angle is when it's touching the ground. A power top link also makes this mostly not matter. The fact that we don't have a pto shaft with limited 'compression travel' and u-joint angle to worry about, also makes it not matter much.

I intend to modify my j26 a lot further by adding the deck lift cylinder on the other side (attached at a different radius because of its different stroke length), redoing my lower arms and lift links, and putting a power top link on it at some point. But the tractor itself would still not be useful for most of my Cat1 implements which i use on my Kubota B6100 because of weight/traction. I have not added enough weight to my Case to give it useful 1wd (open diff no steering brakes 2wd) traction for dragging actual cat 1 ground engaging implements. But i frequently use it for a landscape rake, carryall/pallet forks, a small ripper/plow thing i made, and pulling cars around occasionally. I have a ~40" dethatcher i am probably going to double the size of to ~80" , and it could probably still use that well. After i am done with all upgrades I would hope it could use a ~5ft angle blade 'ok' but not great. So hopefully your expectations are calibrated properly about what you could accomplish with cat1 implements.

Hope that helped any.
 

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Here's a $30 option at Tractor Supply:

So I have the j26 on my 444, but i built the lower arms and the side links. What i've learned about the Case setup in particular is that on the J26 design the fact that the rockshaft arms go out straight sort of dictates that your lower arms also need to go out straight, which means they have to be bent outwards somewhere past where the side/lift links attach. If you have straight lower arms which angle out and then hook lift links from your straight rockshaft arms to them, the rockshaft arms get a bending/twisting force from picking up on something that isn't directly below them. So you can either put the angle in the rockshaft arms or in the lower arms but ideally the lift link itself would remain nearly vertical between the two.

It's also somewhat important that the attachment from the lift link to the lower arm be a 'clevis yoke' that goes around both sides, because if you don't center the lift force over the lower arm it will have a tendency to twist it as far as the ball ends will allow, which might be fine or might not depending on how you look at it.

The length of the lower arms takes away from your lift capacity, but if you make them TOO short it will just limit your lift height instead by running the implement into the back of your tires as you raise it.

Cat 1 top link pin is farther up from the lower draw pins than on Cat0, as someone already said. You can leave the stock top link attachment point alone on the tractor side but what will happen is as you raise the implement, it will also tilt forwards. For many things this does not matter as the only time it needs to be at a particular angle is when it's touching the ground. A power top link also makes this mostly not matter. The fact that we don't have a pto shaft with limited 'compression travel' and u-joint angle to worry about, also makes it not matter much.

I intend to modify my j26 a lot further by adding the deck lift cylinder on the other side (attached at a different radius because of its different stroke length), redoing my lower arms and lift links, and putting a power top link on it at some point. But the tractor itself would still not be useful for most of my Cat1 implements which i use on my Kubota B6100 because of weight/traction. I have not added enough weight to my Case to give it useful 1wd (open diff no steering brakes 2wd) traction for dragging actual cat 1 ground engaging implements. But i frequently use it for a landscape rake, carryall/pallet forks, a small ripper/plow thing i made, and pulling cars around occasionally. I have a ~40" dethatcher i am probably going to double the size of to ~80" , and it could probably still use that well. After i am done with all upgrades I would hope it could use a ~5ft angle blade 'ok' but not great. So hopefully your expectations are calibrated properly about what you could accomplish with cat1 implements.

Hope that helped any.
I believe I looked at those lifts arms and they're too long and when fully compressed the arms still have a slight downward angle instead of being level with the ground or higher at full lift. Also, the ball joint at the top shouldn't be used with the J26. If it fits in the opening on the HH34 then it will be fine to use the top ball joint.

Also, you should remember this is going on his diesel build more than likely so he will have a good bit more weight on his tractor than your assumed to be stock 444. His will probably weigh similar to mine and mine will weigh about 1000lbs without ballast which is very close to your Kubota. The only issue he and I will have is the 2WD vs 4WD traction issues. I believe at the weight these tractors will be the small Cat 1 attachments meant for the sub-compact size tractors will work perfectly. Your B6100 is only rated for 400lbs of rear hitch lift which is actually pretty close to what people say a stock 400 series can lift ballasted correctly. I did the math on it and mine will lift 400lbs no problem without any ballasting and just relying on the front-end weight from the engine and I personally believe the J26 is plenty strong enough to lift that weight.
 

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I believe I looked at those lifts arms and they're too long and when fully compressed the arms still have a slight downward angle instead of being level with the ground or higher at full lift.
So i can understand if the arms i linked to are just too long, but i don't get what you're saying about what is supposed to be 'level at full lift'?

Also, the ball joint at the top shouldn't be used with the J26.
I thought he said he was going to 'pocket' the end of the rockshaft arms so that they would be on both sides of a ball type joint.

he will have a good bit more weight on his tractor than your assumed to be stock 444. His will probably weigh similar to mine and mine will weigh about 1000lbs without ballast which is very close to your Kubota. The only issue he and I will have is the 2WD vs 4WD traction issues.
My Case is actually lighter than stock because it's repowered with a Predator 212cc and has no pto assembly, mower deck etc. I do have filled rear tires and just built a 'chain box' for the front pin mount thing which is probably over 100lbs when filled with chain. But it's still an open differential 2wd with no steering brakes (ie manual 'traction control') no matter how much weight i add to it.

My B6100 on the other hand has a 500lb FEL on it, and filled 31x13.50-15 rear tires (~19 gal/150lbs each) so it is probably closer to 1700lbs. I was using my 60" box blade with all 5 rippers down yesterday and not only does it need its 4wd and rear diff lock to effectively do that, i also had to pick up a bucket of dirt to add weight to the front tires for traction.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Tread

My Case could pull MAYBE 2 of those rippers through the dirt, and couldn't pull a 60" box blade full of dirt basically no matter what. I still love my Case but it's not really capable of using very many Cat1 implements just because i put Cat1 ball ends on it. That's why.. I have multiple tractors. 😈 A Case should use a 42-48" box blade, in my opinion.

Your B6100 is only rated for 400lbs of rear hitch lift which is actually pretty close to what people say a stock 400 series can lift ballasted correctly. I did the math on it and mine will lift 400lbs no problem without any ballasting and just relying on the front-end weight from the engine and I personally believe the J26 is plenty strong enough to lift that weight.
I thought it was 500lb. I remember reading that the B6100 and the Case on paper had the same 3pt lift capacity. In real life the 6100 is slightly stronger and probably closer to 600lbs, but the Case is limited more by weight on the front end than the actual 3pt hydraulics. Before I added the chain box i couldn't really get close to 500lbs without the front end coming up so i've never truly maxed it out. The b6100 i max out basically every time i'm on it because the 60" box blade weighs ~325-350lbs, i added a 113lb weight to the very back of it, and as soon as it's half or more full of dirt i can no longer lift it unless i back away from the dirt a little bit or tilt it forward with the power top link to let some dirt drop out behind me.

I'm planning to increase the 3pt capacity on both machines. On the Case i'm adding a 2nd cylinder to the rockshaft, on the Kubota i have concerns about the rockshaft arm durability so i'm going to add a couple of small external cylinders (actually power steering cylinders from a Case 580!). (y)


I'm very happy to share my 'small tractor 3pt experiences' but I don't want people to think i'm shittalking a Case just because it's a 2wd garden tractor. I love them and that's why i'm here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
At this point I'm just going to build a modified j26 style hitch with stronger upper lift arms and hopefully tie it into the frame a bit better.

I don't need to worry about adding a cylinder or anything like that. The john deere cylinder I'm using is rated for 2000 psi so I will gain a ton of power just from that.

I do understand what you guys are saying about cat 1 Implements though.
 

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I'm working on improving my lift arm stabilization. Like the HH34, I have a triangle brace coming up from a ball hitch mount, and it falls inline with the lift arms' center of rotation. So I'm going to model a stabilizer after the HH34, and drill through that triangular brace. (I'll pull the right wheel and the right lift arm, and stick an extended 1/2" drill bit through the righthand lift arm pin hole, and just drill into/through that triangular brace.)

But the factory HH34 stabilizer isn't adjustable, and we can't have that. So I'm fabricating a 3/4" turnbuckle with about 2.5" inches of travel. Fully retracted, it'll hold the righthand liftarm SUPER narrow, fully extended, the lift arm will basically rub the righthand tire.

The LH acme threaded rod and nut are salvaged from a trashed trailer tongue jack. The RH threaded rod and nuts are standard 3/4-10. The rods will travel in and out at differing paces, but it shouldn't matter.


I'll post more pics as it progresses.

Bob

Slope Parallel Font Drawing Rectangle
 

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Looks nice. If you use jamnuts of any kind try to make them engage the same kind/size of tool that turns the turnbuckle to minimize the amount of tools you need to keep with the tractor. You can stick things off the side like 'flag nuts' to make them more workable by hand but you if you do that you have to have clearance to spin said appendage and it doesn't look like it.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle

In the pic of my Kubota above you can see that i replaced one of my stabilizer turnbuckles with a small ratcheting loadbinder which is blissfully 'tool free'. Why only one? Because i only bought one to explore the feasibility of it when i had the idea.. now i need a 2nd one and haven't bought it yet. :whistle: So there is still a wrench hung on a hook right above it for the stock stabilizer on the other side. I did learn that is not sufficient for bush hog use when one bounced off and i bent it about in half with the bush hog.. whoops. Started hanging them on a carabiner after that but when i don't need any tools for stabilizers anymore i will say GOOD RIDDANCE!!
 

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I'm working on improving my lift arm stabilization. Like the HH34, I have a triangle brace coming up from a ball hitch mount, and it falls inline with the lift arms' center of rotation. So I'm going to model a stabilizer after the HH34, and drill through that triangular brace. (I'll pull the right wheel and the right lift arm, and stick an extended 1/2" drill bit through the righthand lift arm pin hole, and just drill into/through that triangular brace.)

But the factory HH34 stabilizer isn't adjustable, and we can't have that. So I'm fabricating a 3/4" turnbuckle with about 2.5" inches of travel. Fully retracted, it'll hold the righthand liftarm SUPER narrow, fully extended, the lift arm will basically rub the righthand tire.

The LH acme threaded rod and nut are salvaged from a trashed trailer tongue jack. The RH threaded rod and nuts are standard 3/4-10. The rods will travel in and out at differing paces, but it shouldn't matter.


I'll post more pics as it progresses.

Bob

View attachment 128273
Here's the finished product.


Automotive tire Wood Automotive exterior Gas Automotive wheel system


I only intend to do a single side, I'll let the left hand lift arm be controlled by its connection to the righthand arm.

And for locking, I have a pivoting clamshell shroud on the turnbuckle. You can snap the shroud closed for adjusting the turnbuckle, and then leave it hanging down when you're done. Any forces trying to spin the turnbuckle can't overcome the gravity that's pulling that clamshell downward, so it'll just stay where you leave it.

Here are some construction shots for anyone interested.


Asphalt Gas Auto part Metal Cylinder

LH acme nut insert on the right, standard 3/4" nut on the left.

Wood Gas Auto part Metal Pipe

Both nuts welded in place, I marked the rods with teflon tape to confirm I have enough travel in and out.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Plant Vehicle
Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle


I used a holesaw stuck in through the lift arm pivot hole to drill out the vertical brace. That hole is in line with the lift arm pivot pins, so the shaft stuck in that hole will just rotate cleanly up and down with the lift arms.

Metalworking hand tool Wood Gas Screw Auto part
Wood Gas Metalworking hand tool Bumper Bicycle part

I slotted some 1" bar and forged/welded an eye onto a 1/2" grade 8 bolt to create the rearward "hinge". The bolt will go through the lift arm shackle to pin it to the lift arm.

Wheel Automotive tire Bicycle tire Tire Bicycle part

Then I cut the bar off and drilled the end so it can go over the 3/4" LH acme rod and be welded on.

Wood Tool Gas Font Metalworking hand tool

Then I made two new pins: the pin at the very top is a new lift arm pivot pin. I turn a u-shaped channel near its inner end.

Then I made the other upper left pin. Its slotted end slides in the new hole in the vertical brace. It's other end telescopes over the u-channel end of the lift arm pivot pin. When you put in that big hairpin, it goes in the u-channel, which captures the pivot pin.

Metalworking hand tool Gas Trigger Gun accessory Nickel

So those two shafts can rotate freely vs. each other, but they can't come apart. They're pinned together.

Handle Door Wood Line Fixture
Wood Tool Gas Font Metalworking hand tool

Then I milled down the end of the standard 3/4 threaded rod so that it can slide in and get pinned into the slot in the inner (upper left above) pin.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Wood Automotive exterior

lastly I created a hinged clamshell shroud to go on the turnbuckle itself.


Time to assemble:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system
Pipeline transport Orange Wood Automotive tire Fender

This rotating pin is locked "left-to-right" It can't slide right due to the spacers on its right end. And it can't slide left due to the flange/collar on the pin that's joining to the 3/4" threaded rod.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle

Super narrow


Tire Wheel Plant Automotive tire Tread

Super wide. Almost rubbing the rear tire.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

All finished, counterweight re-installed.
 

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Nice work! Can you pull a pin to allow the arm to swing free? 2 reasons, 1 it is way easier to hook up to fixed pins on an implement, and If you want to plow with it, some side to side movement is required for optimum plowing.
Yes that rear on the back left is free floating. I figure it'll be important even just to make easier to hook up implements. Having said that, when I went ahead and hooked up the counterweight implement it was really pretty easy to just use the turnbuckle to bring the lift arm over when I was ready.

So for what I'm doing with it I may never pull the pin. But I can if I want.

Bob
 

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Yes that rear on the back left is free floating. I figure it'll be important even just to make easier to hook up implements. Having said that, when I went ahead and hooked up the counterweight implement it was really pretty easy to just use the turnbuckle to bring the lift arm over when I was ready.

So for what I'm doing with it I may never pull the pin. But I can if I want.

Bob
ROCK ON!
 

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Creative design. I like the reuse of trailer tongue jack components!

I can see the impetus for the assymmetrical design, and i like about it that it can also ‘side shift’ a 3 pt implement without having to go back and forth working the stabilizers on both sides. I found some need to do that when using a 5ft angle blade to backfill a trench with a tiny tractor, because i needed a lot of angle on the blade, also needed the blade to extend beyond the rear wheel on that side, AND found that even if i had a larger blade it would not necessarily help because the angled 5’ blade was already imparting a large ‘rear steer’ force and ‘wagging the dog’, which would have been even worse with a larger blade. So, offsetting the blade via the stabilizers came in handy.

I haven’t come up with a stabilizer design idea that i actually like for my Case yet, but this is definitely getting filed away in the ideas drawer up there. 👍
 
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