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Discussion Starter · #301 ·
That sucks but luckily it's not worse. One thing that could've happen is you unknowingly rubbed your eye thus introducing a foreign object where it doesn't belong or just scratching yourself. Happened to me with a tiny shard of glass off the cracked back of an iPhone. The lady assistant from the eye dr said "you'd never rub your eye if you saw what I see on a daily basis."
Yep, had a friend recently collapse his LH eyeball.

Was at work cleaning a bench and something flipped up and smacked him in the lens. A day later they’re rushing him into surgery to rebuild the lens and stop the eyeball from further “leakage”. He never felt a thing other than something like dust in his eye. He has less than a 50% chance of regaining sight in that eye now.

So yup, coukd have been worse and I’m grateful it wasn’t.

still sucks though…
 

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Discussion Starter · #302 · (Edited)
Back to work! Carefully, slowly and cautiously, but back to it none the less!

Bucket under construction:

122764


Its 3 feet wide, 16” deep and just about 16” high with a 25 degree forward tilt on the back wall.

3 feet is the width of the tractor front tires, but a bit less than the rears. A lot of that is becuase I only had plate 3 feet wide, but it also helps to limit how much weight I can get into the bucket.

For winter duty, it will wear a 48” plow.

started adding the fish plates to the arms:

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Welds aren’t the prettiest I’ve ever done, but they’re good and strong.

I’m pretty much getting to the “grunt work” with the welding since most of it is at least built.

Also ran across this little bugger the other day:

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I do want a backhoe attachment, but I’d only need it in isolated cases. This seems to be a decent compromise, needing only one extra cylinder to work the bucket. It’s made for a skid steer though, so thats probably how they “swing” the bucket to the side and back. Not so much an option on a front steering tractor…
 

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Discussion Starter · #303 ·
Had a bit of a think on the bucket width after the last post.

Went out to the shop and grabbed a length of 1/4” x3” flat stock. Cut some strips and extended the width of the bucket 6” by welding a strip on each end.

so the bucket is now 42”, which is pretty much how wide the tractor is at the rear tires. That way, should I need to do something like dig a path in backyard in the snow for the dogs, one bucket width will let the tractor pass on the path.
 

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Discussion Starter · #305 · (Edited)
getting a better view of how the arms will look when done:

122788


Getting there slowly, but getting there all the same.

I'm thinking I'm at the point where I need to drop it down off the lift in order to get the rest of the loader/bucket measurements correct.

I'm also considering bobbing the front arms where the cross bar will go and carrying on with arms that are closer together from that point. I'm thinking of going that way becuase I plan to build a "quick-tach" plate and I'd rather not have it a full 36" wide. That just makes it even heavier and I'm pretty sure I've got MORE than enough weight (IE: way more than I need) on the front end already. As in, everything on the loader build (besides the 1/8" arms) is 1/4"....
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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What kind of eye protection did you use when plasma cutting? It's recommended to have a shade #5 or darker.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter · #307 · (Edited)
What kind of eye protection did you use when plasma cutting? It's recommended to have a shade #5 or darker.

Keep the Peace
Harry
I didn’t have flash burn, it was a foreign object that scratched my eye somehow. I likely rubbed my eye at some point without realizing it and contaminated the eye. That makes the most sense as I wear safety glasses all the time in the shop unless I’m just driving something out (ie: Vette, motorcycle, tractor, etc).
 

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getting a better view of how the arms will look when done:

View attachment 122788

Getting there slowly, but getting there all the same.

I'm thinking I'm at the point where I need to drop it down off the lift in order to get the rest of the loader/bucket measurements correct.

I'm also considering bobbing the front arms where the cross bar will go and carrying on with arms that are closer together from that point. I'm thinking of going that way becuase I plan to build a "quick-tach" plate and I'd rather not have it a full 36" wide. That just makes it even heavier and I'm pretty sure I've got MORE than enough weight (IE: way more than I need) on the front end already. As in, everything on the loader build (besides the 1/8" arms) are 1/4" steel or better....
Don't loose sight that every pound you add to the loader is almost a pound less that you can move with it. Especially with out little GTs, it is quite easy to build a super strong/heavy loader that is completely useless. More of a movable hood ornament that a earth moving attachment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #309 ·
Don't loose sight that every pound you add to the loader is almost a pound less that you can move with it. Especially with out little GTs, it is quite easy to build a super strong/heavy loader that is completely useless. More of a movable hood ornament that a earth moving attachment.
Understood, but I’m too deep into it now. I get what I get for weight and capacity will be what it will be.

Moving shouldn’t be a problem with the Case hydriv.

Steering is also going to be hydraulic (JD 318 parts mostly), although I tend not to turn the steering unless the tractor is moving (even if its just a crawl). I actually steer any vehicle that way, I don’t turn tires at a stop unless its absolutely necessary. Puts less strain on all the steering parts and is not as abusive on the tires. I guess its a hold over from my aviation days: you see a lot of unnecessary abuse to landing gear and tires from differential braking or spinning an aircraft on its spot when towing.

Should be plenty of grunt available to lift the weight too with roughly 1000 psi available and 2.5” cylinders.

It’s going to have a bit of weight to it, but I’m hoping it won’t be a big limiter for the uses I need it for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #310 ·
Ordered the hoses for the loader today. All 16 of them. I went with 3/8" x 2 footers from PA. They were 14 bucks a piece (hard to beat that) and easy to get replacements if I need them. Also ordered u pa bunch of fittings that I needed to finish it off.

While I was in an ordering mod, grabbed a couple suspension seats:


One for the loader, one for the lawn mower. My back is too beat up to suffer bouncing over the lawn much longer. The high back and side suports will also help the back. The Loader seat is all torn and ripped and this was just easier to swap in rather than fighting the upholstery. The loader is easy and the seat just mounts to the pedestal, the mower I'll need to make a plate above the battery to bolt the seat to.

The seat is a little taller than both mower and loader, but it's a worthwhile trade off for the suspension. It's about 3" taller at the highest, but all that does is give me more leg room and I can always appreciate not having my broken up old knees folded over more than necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #311 · (Edited)
Well, the lathe is starting to cut a bit of taper on long cuts.

So I’ll need to level it and redo the cross slide alignment.

problem is: my precision level disappeared some time ago. I had a “friend” over one day while I was turning some axle spacers for him. He was sitting there as I used my Starrett to condirm the lathe hadn’t twisted, warped or otherwise moved aince I had last used it. By coincedence, I never could find my level after that day. I did ask him once that I couldn’t find my level and if he saw what I did with it that day. He stated he didn’t notice me using a level, but he was a fair bit flustered and got a bit of color in his cheeks when I asked him. Suffice to say, he hasn’t been back to my house since. I was pretty pissed as it was a nice Starrett

Digging around on ebay turned up a Starrett 98-6 for 70 bucks.

Yoink! Mine!

My previous “walking” starrett was a 97 model, which has a bent tube as opposed to the 98 model which has a precision ground tube. So I took a little step up in sensitive and accuracy there.

At least I’ll have a nice Starrett precision level again. At least it will be after a couple rounds of adjustments. If you’ve never tried to bring a precision level into true, you’re missing out on one of life’s greatest pleasures…..:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #312 ·
Still plugging along:

122815


Getting there. Starting to look like a functional piece now.

Progress is slow, but still getting there…
 

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Discussion Starter · #313 ·
Got the lower atms roughed out before calling it a night:

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I’m liking where its going.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #314 · (Edited)
Started work on the “quick-tach” system:

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I wanted to go this way for a couple reasons.

1. its convenient (and cool!)
2. It makes changing implements easy
3. All I have to do to most things I would hang on the loader arms is build a corresponding receiver plate
4. Perhaps the most important - it will make it easier for the wife to change from plow to bucket to snowblower to whatever she needs.

My concern with the wife is she is pretty much mechanically “un-inclined” and I’m ten years older than her. When/if I go before her, I want this thing to be as user friendly as possible so she can clear snow, move dirt or whatever she needs to do. Its also why I’m essentially “overbuilding” all of this and using easily sourced or common parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
Looking forward to seeing what you'll do, I'd like to mod my 644 for some sort of quick attach too.
For the quick attach, I’m roughly following a skid steer type attachment system. I’m using a piece of 1/5” plate instead of a fabricated type attachment. Seem a little quicker and easier to build this way. Less joints, fewer places to mess up making it…
 

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Discussion Starter · #319 ·
Heres a quick visual of roughly where its going to end up:

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The angle on the rear wall of the bucket gives me the curl and dump angles I need and still be able to use the shorter rams I’ve chosen. Rams will go inboard of the loader arms.

The geometry gives me roughly 6’ of lift at full extension of the lift rams.
 

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For the quick attach, I’m roughly following a skid steer type attachment system. I’m using a piece of 1/5” plate instead of a fabricated type attachment. Seem a little quicker and easier to build this way. Less joints, fewer places to mess up making it…
So the quarter inch plate that you welded on the loader arms will slide under some sort of hooks that are on the bucket? Will it have a locking mechanism?
 
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