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Discussion Starter · #322 ·
Well, second shot of vaccine done. Same as last time: side effects are starting. Its common for me to get the listed side effects from vaccines (ANY vaccine), same with the rest of my family members. Its just how our biology is. 100% worth it though. I have so many underlying conditions, COVID is pretty much an assured “death sentence” for me. So yeah, a day or two of being miserable is a fair trade for the rest of my life.

But, it does mean miserable sick for a day for me. So probably a couple days before I’m up to doing more work on the tractor.

Just the price of doing business as far as I’m concerned….
 

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I hear ya. Got my second dose yesterday. Fever all night and feel like a can of crushed arseholes today. And I am healthy otherwise.
 

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I got my second dose on Monday. I attribute no side effects due to actually having had COVID (February). I expect my immune response was already there.

Hang in there guys.
 

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I quiet the flu vaccines due to very bad reactions long ago. But I got lucky the covid shots only left a tender spot at the injection site for a couple days, and then only if I touched or bumped it. # 2 shot was on 4-27-21.

Feel better soon,
Cheer's
Gordy
 

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Discussion Starter · #326 ·
I quiet the flu vaccines due to very bad reactions long ago. But I got lucky the covid shots only left a tender spot at the injection site for a couple days, and then only if I touched or bumped it. # 2 shot was on 4-27-21.

Feel better soon,
Cheer's
Gordy
Yeah, I get that with the flu vaccine as well. I quit taking them for a time, until one year I got deathy sick with the flu. Wasn’t in danger of death, but I was so messed up for weeks I almost wished I had died. Then it as months to get back to 100%.

Now, I tough it out for the day or two to get the protection. Even the years when its only rated somewhere around 40% effective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #327 ·
So, bit of a pickle here.

My towers are 2x4 tube.

The cylinder mount on that end is 3 1/4” wide.

Its also low enough that the mount needs to be essentially at the bottom of the post, right where the attachment points are.

So I need to find a way to “widen” the posts enough that I can build a mount that fits the cylinder mount, or make some type of bent up piece to fot the cylinders.

I’m not a fan of bending as I don’t really have the equipment to bend 1/4 steel without using heat and hammers.

My plan is to “plate” the towers with 1/2 flat stock on either side, which gets me to 3” wide. Then I’ll plate that with 1/4” on each side, which will also include the cylinder mounts.

I’ll still have to bend the mounts out a bit to get the 3 1/4” for the cylinders, but the bend will be much less than if I tried to go from 2” to 3 1/4”.

Seems to be the best/cleanest solution to me in this case.
 

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Since you've been turning dino size bushing why not weld such a bushing on the tower and hook your cylinder mount there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #329 ·
Since you've been turning dino size bushing why not weld such a bushing on the tower and hook your cylinder mount there.
Wouldn’t work. The mount on the tower needs to be like a clevis, not a bushing/pin.
 

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Wouldn’t work. The mount on the tower needs to be like a clevis, not a bushing/pin.
Yes, clevis made out of two narrow bushing welded on the side corners of the tower, on protruding plates. Or just weld a couple of 2x4 pieces on the sides. Or 1/2 in plate on the sides, with another short piece of 1/2 as distancers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #332 ·
I hear what you’re saying, but I’m going to see if I can come up with a slightly more “professional” looking a solution.

I don’t like the way that 64x mounting looks. I have no doubt it works just fine, but I don’t like the idea of one side of the pin being unsupported. Seems like you’re just asking for it to bend if you try to pick ip something thats too heavy for the machine…
 

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Discussion Starter · #333 ·
So I was having a heck of a time forming the lower end of the lower arm where the pivot would be. I was also planning to sleeve the arm, seeing as it is only 1/8”:

122870


Somehow, I just can’t get to a point where I’m happy with what I was seeing. Can’t put my finger on it, but it just looks…..”hacked”.

I still had some 3” round left over from building the upper pivots, so I spun out a piece to accept the pivot bolts:

122871


Plan is to line them up on the lower arms, tack ’em in, form the side of the arms around them and then final welding.

probably more overkill on my part, but I much prefer the look of machined parts in there rather than a piece of butchered up square tube.
 

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Am I understanding correctly that you need a clevis type (2 prong) mounting receiver on the arm and tower to receive a single prongs on the ends of the ram? What about welding ears coming off the tower and
I hear what you’re saying, but I’m going to see if I can come up with a slightly more “professional” looking a solution.

I don’t like the way that 64x mounting looks. I have no doubt it works just fine, but I don’t like the idea of one side of the pin being unsupported. Seems like you’re just asking for it to bend if you try to pick ip something thats too heavy for the machine…
Are your rams "thick" on the end like those shown for the 64x which would require a really wide clevis or do they have a more typical 1" wide prong to go into a clevis mount, or something different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #335 · (Edited)
Am I understanding correctly that you need a clevis type (2 prong) mounting receiver on the arm and tower to receive a single prongs on the ends of the ram? What about welding ears coming off the tower and


Are your rams "thick" on the end like those shown for the 64x which would require a really wide clevis or do they have a more typical 1" wide prong to go into a clevis mount, or something different?
If I’m understanding your “prong” description (I assume you mean eye end/spherical bearing), my cylinders don’t have that.

These are the ones I’m working with:

122876


So they need a “clevis” style bracket and a through bolt/pin.
 

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If I’m understanding your “prong” description (I assume you mean eye end/spherical bearing), my cylinders don’t have that.

These are the ones I’m working with:

View attachment 122876

So they need a “clevis” style bracket and a through bolt/pin.
Gotcha. I don't like the idea of bending or splaying the mount to get from 3" to 3 1/4". Ideally sourcing some 5/8" plate would be my first choice, but you could do a second lamination of 1/8"+1/2" to get you there. Maybe even 3/16" to give room for a bronze washer between the mount and ram or shoulder bushing into the mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #337 ·
Gotcha. I don't like the idea of bending or splaying the mount to get from 3" to 3 1/4". Ideally sourcing some 5/8" plate would be my first choice, but you could do a second lamination of 1/8"+1/2" to get you there. Maybe even 3/16" to give room for a bronze washer between the mount and ram or shoulder bushing into the mount.
The problem is as much where the cylinder has to mount as the thickness. The cylinder has to mount at the bottom of the tower to fit, but the tower lowe brackets mean the cylinder mount has to puah too far forward to fit.

I’m considering flipping the cylinder over so the wide end is up on the loader arms. That would allow the less wide end for the lower lower and a 1/2’ spacer plate would mean the wide end would slip right in.

I’m just not sure I like the thought/look of the cylinder body moving with the arms. Kinda goes against everything I know about hydraulics. Mainly, that there will be less area on the lifting aide of the cylinder which means less power to lift.

Still thinking on it…
 

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Flipping cylinder won't change force. It depends on if it retracts (over boom) or extends (under boom) to lift bucket, so no worries there.
 
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