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Still working that out. Thinking something along these lines:

View attachment 121723

...
As a tube wrangler myself, it bothers me to see unnecessary bends. I realize there is no fluid flow in the square 'tubes', but, I don't like the arms on 'Grampa Jay's' FEL; or at least the drop down on the boom arms near the post. I think it would be more appealing if he followed the curve of the hood. The rest is okay, and I like the sweep back at the post to boom hinge.

I hope your not planning to paint green and yellow.
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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I liked the pic of your Argo you posted. That is something I always liked but never purchased.
Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Feeding the filler is a common problem for most people in TIG and Oxy Fuel Welding. They even have a wire feeding tool that slides the wire with a thumb wheel. I've never used one but I've seen some welders use them. When I'm doing TIG I weld a few inches and then I have to move my hand on the wire. I momentarily back off on the peddle just a little and stick the wire in the puddle then slide the wire in my hand then hit the peddle and unstick the wire and start moving again. It takes a little finesse and practice but since I've been doing it a long time it just comes natural. Try it on a practice piece and let me know what you think.

Keep the Peace
Harry
I actually use the “stop/start” technique to feed my rod. I don’t back off though, I stop, reposition and start again.

I may give your “back off” a try and see how it goes.

Probably a little easier than trying to trail off to a stop and not make a crater than just backing off and getting back in again.
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
...I hope your not planning to paint green and yellow.

Hmmm, and what if I do?

:p

J/K. Black and red. Thinking I’ll paint it in orginal Murray colors/Badging just to make people confused when they look at it.

If I had to guess, the drop arms are to make accessing mechanicals easy when the hood is up. Looks like the arms drop to right about where the hood line is.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I liked the pic of your Argo you posted. That is something I always liked but never purchased.
Keep the Peace
Harry
They’re not for everyone. They will literally go anywhere, but with no suspension other than low pressure tires, they can be rough as hell. The “skid steer” is also another thing that is hell on a bad back...
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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I think camo would be a real eye catcher!

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #87 (Edited)
was going to go fancy with some perforated internal baffles, but decided just forcing the oil to make a couple turns would be enough to slow it down and “de-aerate” it:

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Then, on goes the filler neck and top:

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Not super professional looking welds, but they will hold just fine.

Internal volume calculates out to just a tick under 2.5 US Gallons. Was hoping to get 3 or 4 gallons, but I’m hemmed in by the space I’ve got to work with.

I still have to add the feed and return tubes, as well as some tabs to bolt it down, but the basic tank is now in place. I also still have to add some bungs for the temp sensor, a dip stick and a vent somewhere. I’m thinking a rollover valve will work best as a vent. Plenty of air in, but roll over and a ball slides into a seat and blocks it off. Nice simple way to vent and now leak if you roll over (or on its side).

Next job is to make the rear mount fuel tank.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
As usual at the end of the day, hung the sheet metal to make sure it all still fits and get a feel for how it looks:

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1C1B979C-F567-479C-958F-0DE3316C4B83.jpeg


1703F726-18DC-44EA-AB02-FB9DC79B8E3F.jpeg


Looks pretty good! Really starting to look like a fairly serious machine.

Good place to stop for the day.

Time for a wobbly pop on the back deck and make it an early night with the missus.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Looks like I have space under the seat to fit a scootch bigger than a 3 gal tank.

From what I can tell, 3 gal is what the 44x sized tractors had, so I’m thinking its going to be enough to feed the briggs for a couple days worth of hard snow plowing.

I think I could get a bigger tank in the available space, but I’d start loosing options for placement of other systems.

tractor never leaves our 1.6 acre lot and primarily does digging duty in the summer and driveway snow removal in the winter. Anyone think 3 gal isn’t enough capacity?
 

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Hmmm, and what if I do?

:p

J/K. Black and red. Thinking I’ll paint it in orginal Murray colors/Badging just to make people confused when they look at it.

If I had to guess, the drop arms are to make accessing mechanicals easy when the hood is up. Looks like the arms drop to right about where the hood line is.
Banishment!

Never considered the drop to have a practical reason; still I can't imagine it helps enough to warrant the extra work and weird appearance.
 

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Black and red would be fine as it isn't a Case. Faking it into a Deere WILL cause ire amongst many here. I'm not sure if they would torch your house and garage but don't bet on it,,, [LOL]
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Nah, have no desire to go green and yellow with it.

The Murray I started with was red with a black frame, so red and black it will be. I’m even considering putting the orange and yellow stripes back on it with the Murray badges and even the data plate (which is really a sticker).

homage to its roots (at least the sheet metal’s roots) as it were:

121767
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
Start of a fuel tank:

121771


Thinking I might knock it off here for today. TIG bottle is nearly empty anyways.

I’m still batting around how to do the filler cap.

I could put it right on top and just lift the seat to fuel, that would be the easiest way to go, although not very “cool” looking.

I could also do a side fill with a pipe to the filler cap out in the fender. That would look more “factory”, but would also be a lot more work.

At least I’ve got lots of time to think it over....
 

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Yeah, Power Red and Black would look great! Looks like your not quite ready for paint. So you still got some time to mull it over.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Start of a fuel tank:

View attachment 121771

Thinking I might knock it off here for today. TIG bottle is nearly empty anyways.

I’m still batting around how to do the filler cap.

I could put it right on top and just lift the seat to fuel, that would be the easiest way to go, although not very “cool” looking.

I could also do a side fill with a pipe to the filler cap out in the fender. That would look more “factory”, but would also be a lot more work.

At least I’ve got lots of time to think it over....
All the Case tanks are under the seat, flip up and fill.........Curt
 

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Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
Pretty sure I’m going to make a filler neck and place the cap in the RH fender:

7F10FEBE-7E6E-47D0-9845-AE37B7E76121.jpeg


Just seems to feel more “finished” that way. It will also be getting a cab for winter work.

Now thinking I might be able to get everything out of the middle “deck space” and make it flat like the case models where you can “step through”. The older I get the harder it is to lift my feet up and over the “hump”. Making it a flat deck (like the case tractors) will make my life soooo much easier with a busted back, neck, knees, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Well, decided to see how it would look in a
step through” design:

121783


looks ok. I think I prefer it with the side walls for looks, but theres no denying its easier to get on/off the thing.

It will also make it miles easier to get in/out with a cab on it where you’re already bent over to clear the cab roof.

So, unless theres a significant reason that crops up where I will need the space, its staying as a step through design. Sheet metal is an easy fix to make it look like it was built that way.

not to mention, now I have a place to mount a high/low shifter for the transaxle.
 

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Well, decided to see how it would look in a
step through” design:

View attachment 121783

looks ok. I think I prefer it with the side walls for looks, but theres no denying its easier to get on/off the thing.

It will also make it miles easier to get in/out with a cab on it where you’re already bent over to clear the cab roof.

So, unless theres a significant reason that crops up where I will need the space, its staying as a step through design. Sheet metal is an easy fix to make it look like it was built that way.

not to mention, now I have a place to mount a high/low shifter for the transaxle.
Other than structural frame and hid the belts you should be good. I like it a lot better.........Curt
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Other than structural frame and hid the belts you should be good. I like it a lot better.........Curt
No worries on structure. The removed bits are just thin sheet metal meant to cover the original shifter lever. The lever is long gone.

The frame itself is 1/4” plate from stem to stern, all welded. The deck between the 1/4” rails is somewhere between 1/4 and 1/8 plate.

Everything that was in that space is gone, so making it a step through just kind of makes sense. Even more sense when the cab is on it.

I will have to make some kind of grip surface for it though. Can’t be slipping on it in wet or wintery conditions.
 
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