How to mount newer 54" dozer blade to '69 444 ?

IIRC there was once a kit to add the Snap Fast pins to early units. Possibly NLA

Randy is correct.

At one time, Case did offer a kit that would convert the older tractors to accept the Snap Fast attachments. However, that kit did not include the ability to add the spring-loaded pins. All it consisted of was a pair of steel brackets that bolted to existing holes in the sides of the frame. Those brackets hung down below the frame and had the lower pins on them to engage the slots in the mule plates on the mower decks, snowcasters and utility blades. Rarely do these brackets show up for sale and naturally, there were two models to cover both tractor series. If you have the tools and the fabricating skills, you can fashion your own set of adapters. However, if you intend to cut grass with this tractor as well as push snow, you will have to obtain an H series or later deck as well or you will find yourself removing the brackets and putting the old-style mount back on so that the F or G deck you may have now, will hook up.

The tractor came with a very nice mower deck with the correct mule, all I will normally be doing with the tractor is pushing snow and dirt. I can fab mounts, that's easy enough.

If someone could post a pic of the front of a newer tractor for height reference I would be appreciative.

Thanks again.

The easiest way to go about this is to remove the mule plate from your blade for the time being.

On the front of the 444, you will see some tabs facing forward from the frame and those tabs are drilled for a pin. The EARS on the blade mule will fit in-between those tabs and allow you to slide the appropriate sized pin through the holes to secure the mule plate. From there, you need to fabricate brackets that will bolt to the sides of the frame rails and then drop down and then inward on an angle and then down once more for a distance that will allow you to weld pins onto them that engage the slots in the lower part of the mule plate while keeping the mule plate at a 90 degree angle to the frame rails.

This is not to say that someone should not take some photos of the mount on a big wheel tractor to give you a visual reference as well.

Thanks for the tips, shouldn't be too difficult. I'm assuming there will be some trial and error with the lift plate ? Unlikely the geometry will end up the same, seems likely the blade will end up slightly forward of the factory position ?

Or will the lift plate be eliminated with the older tractor and necessary to fab a new lift arm ?

The geometry should be just fine. The main difference here is the Snap Fast system. The blade mounts in the same spot whether you have a Snap Fast tractor or a model that precedes that system. If the lift arm on your blade goes over the front axle, then you won't need an adapter plate but if it goes under the front axle, then the plate is a must. All you need to do is to fabricate the adapters.

Mine is the under axle and I have the plate, so no issue there. I'll get busy on the pin mounts - would still like a front pic if someone has one. Thanks

Thanks Learners, this will be very simple. The upper pins mount in the same place and I'll just bolt it on as it will only see plow duty. Easy fab on the lower, I'll run a shaft all the way across for strength.

Surprise of surprises, the seller was less than honest......... The deck is in excellent original condition, but its never mowed grass on this tractor as the mule is the newer snap fast type. Said the PTO clutch needed adjustment, but I would classify it as scrap metal.......

I only bought it to plow, but just tell me the truth please.

At any rate, runs well, operates correctly, still has the 777's, will do what I bought it to do.

I've never owned a non-snap-fast tractor so don't know if this will work or not. But, I do have the front few inches of a frame with the snapfast intact that I saved from a parted out machine. Is it possible to retrofit this to yours???

Sure, that would have to work. How can I get hold of that piece ? I'll PM you - thanks Ken