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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the procedure for replacing the PTO clutch disc on a Case Ingersoll tractor.

First step is to remove the pulley from the clutch shaft on the engine. Please refer to the clutch manual in the Tech Library/Service Manuals section and follow the steps provided. Lay each item you remove from the clutch onto your workbench in the exact order they came off. Failure to do that, often leads to grief when you attempt to adjust the clutch later on.

Here is a picture of the pulley that came off my tractor.






Once the pulley is free of the shaft, the next step is to remove the bearing from the center of the pulley. Use a socket that is smaller than the hole in the pulley and tap the bearing out of the pulley. You will have to place the pulley on some pieces of wood to create a space below to allow the bearing to exit. I sprayed a little PB Blaster around the perimeter of the bearing and allowed it to penetrate down along the outside of the bearing to aid in removal.



With the bearing out of the way. you can begin removing the old friction material from the pulley. This step requires a propane torch and a small scraper. I suggest wearing a pair of gloves and safety goggles during this step. Heat up a small area of the friction disc and then scrape the material off. Continue doing this all the way around the pulley until all the old disc material is removed from the pulley. If need be, use a bench grinder with a wire wheel to remove all traces of the old disc material but finish up by cleaning the entire surface of the pulley with a acetone or alcohol to remove any trace of oil, grease or dirt. This is important in order to get a good bond between the pulley and the new disc.





Now it is time to make the clamping device. Your new friction disc will come with directions and a diagram that shows how to make the clamping plates. All that is needed are two 1/4" thick plates that are 5" x 5" with a 1/2" diameter hole drilled through the center of both plates. You will also need a 1/2" bolt that is long enough to go through the two plates and clutch and still have enough thread to accept a nut.



[bAs stated previously, the pulley surface must be clean and free of rust, oil, and grease. Clean the surface very well just prior to installing the new disc. A product called Brake Clean is an excellent choice because you can flood the area while the the pulley is held on an angle by your fingers gripping the edges. The Brake Clean solution will wash any residual oils off of the pulley and then evaporate quickly leaving a clean surface. Wiping the surface with anything after that would be a mistake. You may leave contaminants behind from towels or rags. Position your new friction disc with the coated side facing the pulley. Bolt the clamping device as pictured below and tighten the bolt to a torque of 80 foot pounds. This is a critical step to ensure the new friction disc bonds correctly to the pulley. DO NOT assume that hand tightening this bolt is good enough. [/b]







Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F and once up to temp, place assembly in the oven for 30 minutes. Allow to cool, disassemble clamping device and install your newly bonded disc and pulley assembly back onto the PTO clutch. Follow the clutch manual for re-installation and PROPER adjustment.



 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I highly suggest replacing any worn wave washers, spacers and/or shims on your PTO clutch when performing the disc rebuild. Please pay extra attention to order of washers and spacers on the shaft of the clutch. These must be reinstalled in the same order or you take the chance of ruining your brand new friction disc.

There were at least 2 different styles of pulleys used on these tractors over the years so pay attention to the style you have before ordering new parts. Below is a picture of the two styles of pulleys used. The pulley on the right is the one I used in this thread and already has the old friction disc removed. The pulley on the left does not have a shoulder around the friction disc and will require its own washers and spacers. The pulley on the right, which I believe is the later style, has the shoulder and also requires its own washers and spacers. The PTO clutch manual will explain this.



Thank you to Brian at Salem Power for providing me with all the parts needed to do this job.
 
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