The visible ( top is cut off) portion of pg 10 says "the transmission must be opened to remove the hyd motor" (?)
Hyd motor removal 448
Page 10 isn't loading from the service manual and I would like to know if you have to pull the left axle to remove the drive motor?
Another thing I would like to know is has anyone used the drive motor seal kit that Gary is selling? I bought one of his kits and the big seal (that would be #6 in the parts manual ) doesn't look like it is thick enough. The one I removed from the end cap on the motor is twice the thickness of the one that comes with the kit. Thanks.
Mark
Another thing I would like to know is has anyone used the drive motor seal kit that Gary is selling? I bought one of his kits and the big seal (that would be #6 in the parts manual ) doesn't look like it is thick enough. The one I removed from the end cap on the motor is twice the thickness of the one that comes with the kit. Thanks.
Mark
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Thanks 99 . Can you get page 10 to load ? I kind of figured you had to remove the cover but I was wondering about the axle. When I removed the end cover from the motor the bolts closest to the axle flange were a little tight getting them past the axle flange so I thought I might have to pull the axle when I remove the motor,thanks.99flhr said:The visible ( top is cut off) portion of pg 10 says "the transmission must be opened to remove the hyd motor" (?)
Mark
Doesn`t load for me either, what I CAN see indicates transaxle has to removed from tractor.
Somebody with hands on exp will be along shortly, don`t trust me on anything :wave:
If not, I`ll consult my manual when I get home and report back
Somebody with hands on exp will be along shortly, don`t trust me on anything :wave:
If not, I`ll consult my manual when I get home and report back
Thanks again 99, about the seals in the rebuilding kit theres only two of the big seals in the motor but there is six of the big seals in the kit. Being that the seal on the end plate is twice as thick I don't know if they want you to double up on these seals or what.99flhr said:Doesn`t load for me either, what I CAN see indicates transaxle has to removed from tractor.
Somebody with hands on exp will be along shortly, don`t trust me on anything :wave:
If not, I`ll consult my manual when I get home and report back
Mark
Have Hyd motor service manual 9-99644 in front of me Axle removal NOT required.
What is your 448 PIN ?
Two sets of directions for different years they both read as follows for REMOVAL, later REPAIR directions differ
Drain tranny
remove 2 valve to motor hyd tubes
place trans in low range
jack stand left rear axle
remove tire/wheel
remove 4 cap screws on hyd motor
align flat on axle with motor
slide motor out
the high lowcluster gear will remain inside the case
Have NO clue about the seal question
Hope this helps
What is your 448 PIN ?
Two sets of directions for different years they both read as follows for REMOVAL, later REPAIR directions differ
Drain tranny
remove 2 valve to motor hyd tubes
place trans in low range
jack stand left rear axle
remove tire/wheel
remove 4 cap screws on hyd motor
align flat on axle with motor
slide motor out
the high lowcluster gear will remain inside the case
Have NO clue about the seal question
Hope this helps
There is a large O-ring that seals the motor housing to the trans-axle housing. There is also a shaft seal on the motor. Any decent hydraulics repair shop should be able to supply them both at a low cost.
Methinks Hydriv is hoping that us newbs should learn on our own and this site become more multi-member sustaining. :wave: O.K. we will plunder along blindly and acquire knowledge along with skinned knuckles. :thumbup:
Yes it does thanks 99. My serial # is 14070499 . So you put it in low range ?I was thinking it had to go in neutral. You still have to pull the lid off the rear don't you?99flhr said:Have Hyd motor service manual 9-99644 in front of me Axle removal NOT required.
What is your 448 PIN ?
Two sets of directions for different years they both read as follows for REMOVAL, later REPAIR directions differ
Drain tranny
remove 2 valve to motor hyd tubes
place trans in low range
jack stand left rear axle
remove tire/wheel
remove 4 cap screws on hyd motor
align flat on axle with motor
slide motor out
the high lowcluster gear will remain inside the case
Have NO clue about the seal question
Hope this helps
Mark
After I pull this motor out I'm going to gather up all my o-rings and seals both new & old and head off to a hyd shop and see what I can find.All the shops I've called around here wasn't to helpful.thanks HydrivHydriv said:There is a large O-ring that seals the motor housing to the trans-axle housing. There is also a shaft seal on the motor. Any decent hydraulics repair shop should be able to supply them both at a low cost.
Mark
This manual does not cover your PIN.
Makes no mention of lid removal
Indicates 14113810 above and below, Sorry
Absolutely indicates LOW range, not neutral
Makes no mention of lid removal
Indicates 14113810 above and below, Sorry
Absolutely indicates LOW range, not neutral
I'm going to quote from page 10 of Ingersoll Two-Speed Transaxle Service Manual 9-99585. All 224, 226, 444, 446 and 448 models
All 3000 and 4000 series
All 3100 and 4100 series
All 600 and 6000 series
1. Remove the drain plug (7A) to drain the transmission oil. Replace the plug when the oil has completed draining.
2. Remove the two valve to motor port hydraulic tubes.
3. Place the transmission in low range.
4. Place a jack stand under the left axle housing and remove the left rear tire and wheel.
5. Remove the four cap screws that secure the hydraulic motor.
6. Slide the hydraulic motor and input shaft assembly from the transmission case. The high-
low cluster gear (24) will remain inside the case.
7. Reassemble in the reverse order of dissassembly.
8. Torque mounting bolts to 80 foot pounds. (108 Nm)
End of page 10
There are different makes of drive motors and may use different size O rings, also there may be studs with locknuts in the place of the bolts, same torque.
The very early transaxles had a separate drive shaft that the drive motor slipped onto, on these the transaxle had to dissassembled.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
All 3000 and 4000 series
All 3100 and 4100 series
All 600 and 6000 series
1. Remove the drain plug (7A) to drain the transmission oil. Replace the plug when the oil has completed draining.
2. Remove the two valve to motor port hydraulic tubes.
3. Place the transmission in low range.
4. Place a jack stand under the left axle housing and remove the left rear tire and wheel.
5. Remove the four cap screws that secure the hydraulic motor.
6. Slide the hydraulic motor and input shaft assembly from the transmission case. The high-
low cluster gear (24) will remain inside the case.
7. Reassemble in the reverse order of dissassembly.
8. Torque mounting bolts to 80 foot pounds. (108 Nm)
End of page 10
There are different makes of drive motors and may use different size O rings, also there may be studs with locknuts in the place of the bolts, same torque.
The very early transaxles had a separate drive shaft that the drive motor slipped onto, on these the transaxle had to dissassembled.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
Big thanks once again 99 I appreciate your help on this matter.It looks like Bob has confirmed you previous post 99 thanks again 99.
Big thanks Bob that just made my job a little easier I was getting myself prepared mentally (if such a thing is possible in my old decrepit state) of turning this tractor into a million pieces on the garage floor, looks like I won't have to go quite that far .
Hey Bob do you know anything about those seal kits Gary sells for the motor? Like I was saying about the thickness of the big seals I don't know if this there way of making this kit more universal or not. thanks again Bob.
Mark
Big thanks Bob that just made my job a little easier I was getting myself prepared mentally (if such a thing is possible in my old decrepit state) of turning this tractor into a million pieces on the garage floor, looks like I won't have to go quite that far .
Hey Bob do you know anything about those seal kits Gary sells for the motor? Like I was saying about the thickness of the big seals I don't know if this there way of making this kit more universal or not. thanks again Bob.
Mark
^ CORRECTION, typing & :trink: not thinking.99flhr said:Makes no mention of lid removal
Indicates 14113810 above and below,
Absolutely indicates LOW range, not neutral
My error. Sorry
Mark,oleblu72 said:Yes it does thanks 99. My serial # is 14070499 . So you put it in low range ?I was thinking it had to go in neutral. You still have to pull the lid off the rear don't you?
Mark
On 200 and 400 models, you cannot remove the top cover of the trans-axle while it is still mounted to the tractor frame.
Mark,oleblu72 said:After I pull this motor out I'm going to gather up all my o-rings and seals both new & old and head off to a hyd shop and see what I can find.All the shops I've called around here wasn't to helpful.thanks HydrivHydriv said:There is a large O-ring that seals the motor housing to the trans-axle housing. There is also a shaft seal on the motor. Any decent hydraulics repair shop should be able to supply them both at a low cost.
Mark
The only way a hydraulics shop can be "helpful" is when you walk in their door and plunk the O-ring and seal, along with the motor itself, onto their counter. Only then can they get out a calliper and micrometer to measure the important dimensions of the items you want.
I was looking for some Viton o-rings for my fuel filter for my 6.5 GM diesel and had the orings with me and still no luck. There is this one hyd. shop that that I talked to on the phone but didn't have a chance to go to they might have been able to come up with something. I ended buying some off of Amazon.Hydriv said:Mark,oleblu72 said:After I pull this motor out I'm going to gather up all my o-rings and seals both new & old and head off to a hyd shop and see what I can find.All the shops I've called around here wasn't to helpful.thanks HydrivHydriv said:There is a large O-ring that seals the motor housing to the trans-axle housing. There is also a shaft seal on the motor. Any decent hydraulics repair shop should be able to supply them both at a low cost.
Mark
The only way a hydraulics shop can be "helpful" is when you walk in their door and plunk the O-ring and seal, along with the motor itself, onto their counter. Only then can they get out a calliper and micrometer to measure the important dimensions of the items you want.
I was not aware of that Hydriv I thought if you pulled the seat and the fenders,& fuel tank you could pull the cover. How does the gear that the input shaft of the motor slides through stay put when you remove the motor Hydriv.
Mark
Hi Mark,
The motor kit from Gary's place is for a Ross/TRW motor. Check the label on the motor hopefully it is still there. However # C28949 is the O ring for the drive motor to transaxle housing and not included in the motor repair kits. You will need a 12 point torque adapter to torque the motor mounting bolts.
Mad Mackie in CT :lol: :crazy:
The motor kit from Gary's place is for a Ross/TRW motor. Check the label on the motor hopefully it is still there. However # C28949 is the O ring for the drive motor to transaxle housing and not included in the motor repair kits. You will need a 12 point torque adapter to torque the motor mounting bolts.
Mad Mackie in CT :lol: :crazy:
Hi Bob its a TRW MAB 24001. Since you are pulling the motor to replace the seals & o-rings it would have been nice if they would have included that 0-ring.Well you got me on that one Bob whats a torque adapter? :facepalm:Bob MacGregor said:Hi Mark,
The motor kit from Gary's place is for a Ross/TRW motor. Check the label on the motor hopefully it is still there. However # C28949 is the O ring for the drive motor to transaxle housing and not included in the motor repair kits. You will need a 12 point torque adapter to torque the motor mounting bolts.
Mad Mackie in CT :lol: :crazy:
Mark
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