Case Colt Ingersoll Tractors banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While plowing snow the end of my hydraulic cylinder came loose the pin slid out. Now I can see an o ring through the mounting hole. I can't get it to go back to slide the pin back through the mount. Is my cylinder in need of repair now? Sorry guys don't know how to post pics. First time her .
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
6,182 Posts
Ryan, since it's mainly apart, I think I'd replace the O rings,, but, I think you could also, slide it back in and providing the O ring didn't get pinched through the process, it'd be good to go! If it's difficult getting back in, you should probably pull the bottom out,, clean up the bottom part of the bore/inside, to clean the paint and possible rust off, and then it will go back in. The other thing to check is, since the pin came out, it may have made a tiny ridge, around the pin hole, inside the bore. Emery cloth or small file will get rid of that,,
Lionel
 

·
Tractor Whisper
Joined
·
3,703 Posts
Loosen 2 small lines on valve bank we call it Travel control valve TCV oil on top piston are, blade lift needs disconnecting. The base cylinder bind so tap with punch brake loose move back in place so pin go back in. Tighten lines at TCV check for leaks at cylinder install new cotter key.

Yep photo's show up nice looking 444

If need that o'ring a hydraulic shop have that size, are shop rebuilds tube jacks, dealers on this site have kits to mail. Welcome to site.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
can i disconnect the lines on the cylinder to do that? i dont know where the tcv is. so its just under pressure and cant move? i tried putting it in float to move it and no go. i dont want to scractch the bore or cut the o ring.
 

·
Tractor Whisper
Joined
·
3,703 Posts
You need pull down on cylinder barrel some that be done best blade lift arm removed. Yes luck on your side if o'ring not cut going back in should not cut ring. Yes but some lines have no swivel at cylinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the lift arm disconnected and couldn't move it. If I operate the lift valve the cylinder expands and contracts but the does not move the plate stuck in the bottom with the o ring on it. Thanks for all the help so far everyone. Its great to have a place like this to come to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I had the lift arm disconnected when I operate the lift control lever the cylinder expands and contratcs but the plate that's stuck in the bottom Doesnt move. I also tried putting it in the float position and moving it. Thanks for all youre help guys I appreciate it. I have the top disconnected I was wondering if I should just take it and get it rebuilt. *Sorry for the double post. I posted it then went back and didn't see it but it was on the second page.*
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
6,182 Posts
Ryan, here's a safe bet.
You probably ran the tractor with that pin working itself out. Once it was half way out, you wouldn't of known that, but would have kept using it. If you sit and think about it, a half cock pin would "egg out" the hole for that pin. That metal squishes and more then likely, You have a burr on the inside of the cylinder where the pin went through!

Your choices are, with cylinder removed from tractor.

1-Take a hammer, with a piece of round metal that sits inside the cylinder, hold cylinder upside down, stick that piece of round metal in, and with a bigger hammer, try and knock it back in. If that works, your decision what to do next. You could stick the pin back in, and try the cylinder to see if it leaks. If it doesn't, you're good to go. If it leaks, remove cylinder, and push the bottom in an inch or so further in. Use a little grinder, and clean out that bore at the bottom really good. Make sure there isn't a burr to stop it from coming out. Once it's really clean, cylinder in hand, piston sticking up, tap on the end of the rod till it pushes the bottom end out. At this point, your choice to either replace the bottom O ring, or just do the whole thing. If it was me, having gone this far, I'd do the whole thing as parts aren't that expensive. Brian has all the parts. Foot note. A press would work as well instead of using hammer, but most people don't have access to that, so hammer works,, like a 2ib hammer.

2-If the above doesn't work, you have a bear in your hands. The only thing left to do is. You'll have to knock that bottom piece out, past that burr and rust. Not fun! With cylinder in hand, piston end up,, you'll have to use the above hammer to knock the piston down, and push that bottom plate out. That will work, but it will be difficult. It all hinges on how mush rust/dirt/and how much of a burr you have in there. Once you have it out, try and not push the piston out at the same time. You only want the bottom to come out at this time."Very Important", because all that stuff at the bottom of the bore, could damage the piston itself. Once you have that bottom plate out. A really good clean in there is in order. Next, because you hammered on the top of the piston rod,, use a file, or emery cloth to remove any burrs you may have created from that hammering. Once that's done, slide the piston out and replace seals/o rings and put it all back together and you're off to the races. A couple of points,, If you don't remove the piston from the cylinder, you only have the bottom O ring to replace, providing things weren't leaking initially, but at a half dismantle,, you may as well go all out and rebuild the thing. Now, once again, a press would do the job, but a hammer will do the same job, the only difference is, a press will not cause a burr on the piston rod end, whereas a hammer will. But once cleaned up with a file and a bit of emery, it won't make any difference what so ever, because once it's re-assembled, that end is not a close tolerance part,, it only holds the pin in place.

Good luck,, it ain't going to be nice for you, Hopefully, it's not burred up to mush to damage the bottom plate for you, that's why you're better off to go back in as a first choice, with it coming out, as your second choice. That and the OTHER reason, you do not want to take the piston out, till after you've cleaned up that bore, that could damage the piston itself...

As an add on,, the best option, is to try and get it back in,, to clean it up, that last resort, is getting it out the bottom before cleaning it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got my cylinder back in there was a small burr on the one edge I cleaned that up and it went back in. I have metal particles floating in my hydro tank now ugh. I'm guessing its from the hydro cylinder walls. I got a different cylinder but its slightly different. I'm Goin to swap and have the original rebuilt. Thanks for the advice guys!
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top