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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going replace all my hydraulic hoses on my case 444 While I have the engine out for rebuild and was hoping I could buy some good after market hoses due to the cost of OEM hoses. If I can buy some really good after market ones cheaper I will. Thanks

Brad
 

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Brad,

I confess that my memory sucks. I just can't remember who owns what on this site. :sidelaugh:

If you own a 444 with the front mounted oil reservoir, then you can buy SUCTION LINE from a local hydraulics house. They can also sell you LOW PRESSURE hose for the connections at the oil cooler. If you take them your old HIGH PRESSURE hose that goes from the pump to either the rear PTO or the travel valve if you don't have the PTO, then they can duplicate it. Just make sure that they don't change the length of it or you will be in trouble. Do not let them use hose with more than single wire construction or you will be in trouble.

If your 444 has the tank under the battery, then you MUST buy the J-hose suction line from a dealer.


Any questions?
 

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Absolutely. What matters most here is not the braid count but rather the "working pressure" of the hose. Use 3000 PSI and up single braid hose and you will be fine. That's a tight bend after the pump and hydraulic fittings can be tough to get started on their threads correctly even with the single braid line. Cross threading can take place you you are not careful and if you do not instantly realize that you are cross-threading the fittings, you can wreck one or both of them. Those lines last for many, many years using single braid hose.

Sometimes..........you might save a buck or three on this hose from a local supplier but sometimes you might spend more money than what one of our trusted Ingersoll dealers will charge you for a 100 percent OEM hose.

A wise man prices it both ways and then makes a decision.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took off all the lines today and I found the larger one that goes from your pump to the control valve was actually a little loose. I am thinking about putting a new rubber O ring on it and reusing it. (do I need a special O ring)
I did however replace the oil cooler lines already so they are fine. The two going from the front Hydraulic cylinder to the control valve look pretty good. I am not sure where it is leaking...the lines or the cylinder. I think the cylinder might be leaking a little. Is there a seal in the rear of the cylinder that can be replaced? I know there is one in the front where it goes in and out at. (hope I am making sense here). Maybe I can change it out.
The j hose must have been leaking because somebody replaced the original wire clamp with modern hose clamp that didn't really tighten well. That is where most of my gunk was from and below that connection.
There was no bad leaks just oily hard gunk around certain connections like around the front cylinder, J hose and the connection where it was a little loose. If I buy a new o ring for that hose and buy a new clamp for the j hose I may be in good shape. I think I thought about replacing them all since the engine was out but if do what I mentioned above I may be alright. These are just compression fitting and can be reused with nothing put on the threads ...right or not? How long are these supposed to last anyways.
Thanks
Brad
 

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Replacing the O-ring is a good idea. Find a local hydraulics dealer and get what you need from him. That way, you know that the O-ring is made from the right material. Take the old ring and the fitting that ring fits on to when you visit the dealer.

What type of hose did you use for the cooler lines? If you did not use a properly rated hydraulic return line, then you run the risk of the hose breaking down internally and having chunks of rubber contaminating your hydraulic system. Don't make this mistake because the result will not be to your liking.

As for the lift cylinder, once again.....your local hydraulics guy can help you out with the correct O-rings and piston seals. We have service manuals and parts manuals on this site to help you.

Modern gear clamps found in hardware stores will ruin the J hose. You need a "bolt clamp" instead. Bolt clamps draw tightly all around the hose and they don't wreck the hose. You don't put sealant on the threads of any fitting except for ones that have pipe thread.


LIfespan of hoses, O-rings and fittings are contingent on far too many variables for anyone to give a number in years. It all comes down to how well the tractor is maintained.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The cooler line I bought from Brain H. So I know it is good...I will buy a bolt clamp and o ring and check out the the cylinder closely. I may replace the seal anyway (cheap enough)

Thanks Hydrive for all the advice!!!!


Brad
 

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These are the hose clamps I got from McMaster Carr for my 226.
All Stainless Steal and Very Heavy Duty.
I believe this is the style Hydriv was referring to in his post.

5462K51 Type 304 Stainless Steel Easy-to-Install Bolt Clamp, 1-7/16" to 1-9/16" Clamp Diameter Range, 25/32" Band Width

5462K46 Type 304 Stainless Steel Easy-to-Install Bolt Clamp, 1-1/16" to 1-5/32" Clamp Diameter Range, 45/64" Band Width

 

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Those are the STYLE. If you notice... there is metal banding under the area where the closure is. This banding protects the hose from damage. Gear or worm clamps often bite into the outer skin of the hose causing tearing. The softer inner section of the hose is then subjected to further damage. The clamps shown are stainless steel and rather pricey but other suppliers offer clamps made from galvanized steel for much less. Pick your poison.
 

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Go with this part number... 5443K19 and size... 1 5/16"-1 7/16" for the bigger hose clamps. :facepalm:
The one I listed earlier works but is not correct in size as it is slightly on the big size. I have to tighten the clamp to the end for it to work. I measured my old hose for the size and it was stretched which gave me a wrong measurement.
Thank you to a very abservant member here who brought it to my attention. :thumbup:
 
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