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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The hydraulic motor's shaft seal is leaking on my Ingersoll chipper. It's not gushing out like when I blew the seal on my hydravac, but I want to repair it soon. The motor used on this chipper looks to use the same seal as utilized on the rear finish mower, rear brush cutter, hydraulic mid-mount mower, and hydraulic snow-caster (judging by the parts list numbers for the seal all being identical). I can't read the numbers on the existing seal on my unit. Can somebody give me a seal number for this motor?

Thanks,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
99flhr said:
The chipper parts manual in the library shows two diff motors ( Ultra & Danfoss)
Some seals sold sep. some only in kits

YMMV
Sorry. In the case of the Ultra motor used in those varoius attachments, the outer shaft seal uses the same part number. I'm seeking advice from someone who has sourced that seal for the Ultra (now Parker) motor. The existing seal in my motor looks to be an S-K brand, but the numbers are partially obscurred.
 

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If no one is able to give you a number, then you could remove the seal, take it to a good power transmission products wholesaler or even a place that specializes in rebuilding hydraulic equipment and let them match it up for you. That's something they do all the time. If you do end up with a brand and part number, then let us know in this thread so that the info is in the archives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hydriv said:
If no one is able to give you a number, then you could remove the seal, take it to a good power transmission products wholesaler or even a place that specializes in rebuilding hydraulic equipment and let them match it up for you. That's something they do all the time. If you do end up with a brand and part number, then let us know in this thread so that the info is in the archives.
It took awhile, but I figured out how to source the shaft seal on the hydraulic motor used on my chipper. My chipper uses the motor indicated in the parts manual as a Danfoss motor. (From a review of a few of the other parts manual, this motor appears to have also been used on other hydraulic attachments.) This motor line later changed brand names to Webster and is known as a YC series motor. Specifically, my motor is a model 077YC and has a displacement of 0.77 cubic inches per revolution. Here's a couple pictures of the motor:




I called the company that handles these motors, explained what I had and asked if they would sell me a shaft seal directly. They did, though that may not be their usual routine. Here's a link to the current product information for this motor: http://www.qccorp.com/webster/ycseries.htm

The new seal arrived yesterday (I ordered two). I'm back in business.






Paul
 

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Good info on the motor.

Since I started having issues with my HRM48H finish mower, I have been compiling a cross reference for the motors and parts on the various attachments.
I am using the parts lists and searching posts on the various sites to build the reference. The info can get a little sketchy so the more we document, the better.

For example, the Danfoss/Webster motor seal you have ( JC-075-131-12), which is Ingersoll part# C40815, came up on MTF by a member tracking down a seal for an AHRM60 mower deck. According to the post, he tried a regular seal and due to the high RPM it got hot and ruined.

If you search the part# on M&D Mower, it shows the part as:
Item# ING-C40815
INGERSOLL-CASE TRACTOR PART C40815
SEAL - OIL, (WEBSTER)
$136.52

If you don’t mind me asking, how much did you pay for the seals you bought?

If you get a chance, post the numbers around the motor housing. It will help someone down the road search out info.

When I have enough data together I will build a FAQ listing the cross reference information.

Glad you are up and running.
Danny
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ING6018 said:
Good info on the motor.

Since I started having issues with my HRM48H finish mower, I have been compiling a cross reference for the motors and parts on the various attachments.
I am using the parts lists and searching posts on the various sites to build the reference. The info can get a little sketchy so the more we document, the better.

For example, the Danfoss/Webster motor seal you have ( JC-075-131-12), which is Ingersoll part# C40815, came up on MTF by a member tracking down a seal for an AHRM60 mower deck. According to the post, he tried a regular seal and due to the high RPM it got hot and ruined.

If you search the part# on M&D Mower, it shows the part as:
Item# ING-C40815
INGERSOLL-CASE TRACTOR PART C40815
SEAL - OIL, (WEBSTER)
$136.52

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the seals you bought?

If you get a chance, post the numbers around the motor housing. It will help someone down the road search out info.

When I have enough data together I will build a FAQ listing the cross reference information.

Glad you are up and running.
Danny
I saw those prices at M&D. My local dealer had it at about the same price and did not have an alternative. Brian Hildreth at Salem Power offered me the best pricing (by a large margin) on the Ingersoll-sourced seal and did say he had it in stock. I stumbled upon the current manufacturer information when I was looking to just replace the motor. Their part number for this seal is 44-610-2. I did not come up with any good web site hits when I searched for that number. The list price I was told over the phone for one seal was $21.83. They hit me hard on the processing and shipping charges (Total for both seals was $70). Maybe Brian can set something up with them and do better than I did on the S/H charges.

Regarding the motor housing numbers: I'll post them later, but you won't find a clean cross-reference to the specification numbers in the current Webster specification book for these motors available at the link I posted previously. Ingersoll must have specified a longer output shaft than the seemingly standard 1-1/4" I see commonly available. My motor has a 2" long shaft. Don't let that fool you: With respect to my chipper, the Lovejoy coupling is mounted with 3/4" of the shaft exposed, meaning I could have used a standard shaft motor. Perhaps in other attachement applications, you need the longer shaft? I believe the really important information that I gleaned is the displacement. With that information, you could shop around for a replacement motor should you have the need. A similar displacement motor, equipped with an external check valve and case drain could also provide good service should someone be faced with the prospect of replacing one of these motors.

Does your 3-point mower deck use this motor?

Paul
 

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The finish mower has an early Barnes (no case drain). I asked the hydraulic shop to measure capacity and they came back with .80 CI.
I have a spec sheet from Eastman for an Orbit that crosses to my unit and it shows .79 CI.
So, your Webster .77 CI is close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Following up on the numbers stamped on the hydraulic motor on my chipper: M077YC180901-28BR F915 4191. This motor is a Webster 077YC. The mount is SAE A. The displacement is 0.77 cubic inches. The shaft is 3/4" in diameter and is 2" long. A motor with a 1-1/4" shaft length would work on my chipper. According to Ingersoll's operators manual the chipper is designed to operate at an unloaded speed of 2800 RPM when the engine speed is 3600 RPM. That's the same chipper speed Mackissic has on their specifications. I don't expect I would achieve that speed on the chipper, as that calculates to an oil flow at the motor of 9.33 GPM. Accounting for flow losses and wear between the motor and pump, I predict my actual speed will be less. This is mounted on a 3018PS tractor with a total pump output rating of 11.25 GPM, 2.5 of which is diverted to the power steering. I've got one of those photo tachometers and will try to remember to measure these speeds next time I have it hooked up.

Paul
 

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Does anyone have any pictures on the disassembly process of one of these hydraulic motors? There don't seem to be any parts manuals/illustrated breakdowns left in the technical section.
 

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In the service manual section three manual cover replacing the seal. The right can be picked series and serial number tractor, from 220 to 3,000 4,000 6,000 series. Some seals easier to replace than others, remove retaining ring plug one inlets blow air in other seal pop out on shaft others take disassemble to remove seal.
Links not to long loads.

http://www.manuals.casecoltingersol...ydraulic Motor Manual 9-99644_watermarked.pdf

http://www.manuals.casecoltingersol...ydraulic Motor Manual 9-99643_watermarked.pdf

http://www.manuals.casecoltingersol...ydraulic Motor Manual 9-99642_watermarked.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I had some pictures of the motor with this posting. I can't find my gallery photos to re-link them for you. The motors are very simple assemblies. Cleanliness is super important.
 

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While I've no first hand experience with this unit, on page 6 of the IPL it appears to be a "taper lock" pulley, so you should be able to put bolts in those "OTHER" two holes, tighten firmly until it pops the pulley off the taper, then you should be able to pull the taper LOCK hub off the shaft.

Ray W

Font Nickel Nail Pattern Circle
 

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I'm not sure if I understand you completely. If you look in my picture, there are four holes in that pulley hub. Two of them are threaded and smaller, and two of them are threadless and larger. Before I removed them , there were two bolts going through the larger threadless hole and entering into a threaded hole on the pulley face to secure the hub to the pulley.

I tried inserting the screws down through the threaded holes of the hub and tightening them against the pulley face to attempt to force the hub upwards, but it felt like I was about to strip something.
 

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You're on track... except the bolts will push the pulley away from the tapered hub. Taper lock hubs, especially ones in service for a "while" may in fact be very tight. That's what the holes are for to push the pulley OFF the hub.

Again, no experience with this cutter, but it sure LOOKS like the setup in the IPL.

Tighten them up. Use good bolts, and maybe, just MAYBE give a very modest rap down on the pulley as close to the hub as possible. A series of lighter repeated raps vs. BFH with all your might.

Brian? Bill? any additional suggestions? Others?

Ray W
 
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