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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After the successful morning pulling posts, we were feeling pretty frisky, and decided to go do a little work on the driveway. I was going to back drag a few mud holes and scrape a few high spots. Everything was proceeding very nicely (Note: The 646 has plenty o'power I'm just learning how to use). I was getting better at feathering the bucket and actually was making some progress when everything stopped. Not the engine, but the everything on the tractor. The bucket had slowly begun to descend. The three point hitch had gone limp. I looked around the right side and saw a fairly significant stream of oil coming from the the area where the metal line connects to the oil cooler on the bottom. I immediately shut the engine off. The oil continued to drain. Seeing how it was in a mud hole I let it keep draining, I least I had it contained. Now here is the scary part. I had to pull the tractor about 40 feet to the side of the garage, because it died dead center of the driveway about three feet off the street. I think I located neutral(?) before pulling. I walked / steered the tractor while my wife eased around in the truck. I didn't hear any loud bangs or grinding metal. I'm hoping. I think this pregnant guppy of a hose is the culprit.

Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Amber Helmet Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Alloy wheel

I read the post about changing hydraulic oil. How to loosen / remove the drain plug in the direction control valve and let drain. Considering most of the oil is gone can I finish draining and replace with the Rotella T 15W-40 synthetic. Do I need to rinse the tank or anything. Also, any recommendations on what to replace this chunk of hose with.

Good news, while she's down I'm going to use this opportunity to replace the banana plate and ball joint (wore out). Anything else I should look at while I'm doing this that's not overly $ or complicated but would be a good idea to replace / repair?

Thanks

Peace to all Caveboy
 

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'68 - Case 155, '73 - 646a
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The return line, the 3/4 ID line that runs to the and from the cooler can be Apache 98392245 3/4" x 5' Low Pressure Hydraulic Return Line Hose with Worm Gear Clamps: Pipes: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

If you're talking about the suction side, the input into the pump, you need SUCTION hose.. 1" SAE 100R4 Hydraulic Suction/Return Line Hose 16C4 NRP Jones | Return & Suction Hose | Hydraulic Hose and Hose Assemblies | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Also recommended that you use T-Bolt clamps instead of garden hose clamps. t bolt hose clamp | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The return line, the 3/4 ID line that runs to the and from the cooler can be Apache 98392245 3/4" x 5' Low Pressure Hydraulic Return Line Hose with Worm Gear Clamps: Pipes: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

If you're talking about the suction side, the input into the pump, you need SUCTION hose.. 1" SAE 100R4 Hydraulic Suction/Return Line Hose 16C4 NRP Jones | Return & Suction Hose | Hydraulic Hose and Hose Assemblies | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Also recommended that you use T-Bolt clamps instead of garden hose clamps. t bolt hose clamp | eBay
This hose. The parts manual just called it 4" hose. Anything special about it? Thanks
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That's the return side hose. Use a hydraulic hose not radiator hose as radiator hose does not stand up to oil.
Look for a hydraulics shop, or motion industries store in your area, they can sell you hose by the foot.

you can use suction type hose for the returns, I have done it, it works great. But, it is a ROYAL PITA to install. I had to use a hammer to drive it on over the nubs on the steel line. I finally figured out to boil the suction line then I could slip on while the hose was hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's the return side hose. Use a hydraulic hose not radiator hose as radiator hose does not stand up to oil.
Look for a hydraulics shop, or motion industries store in your area, they can sell you hose by the foot.

you can use suction type hose for the returns, I have done it, it works great. But, it is a ROYAL PITA to install. I had to use a hammer to drive it on over the nubs on the steel line. I finally figured out to boil the suction line then I could slip on while the hose was hot.
Thanks. I found a hyd hose supplier here in town. 3/4" ID low pressure supply. Also made a bit of a good discovery. The unit I bought is running Rotella T 15/W40 in the hydraulics, found the jug from when I brought the 646 home. I'll pick some up when I go get the hose. Some of the folks on the board said they were having trouble finding it. They had it at Menards $22 in the five quart jug. Again thanks for your help. PS ordering banana plate, ball joint, follower, and pin from Salem Power this week. Looked at that last weekend and everything is really sloppy. So for $100 we'll try to make it better.
 

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Seems banana plate is a rite of passage with these old tractors. I did mine, and it helped a lot. - - - - Metalguy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Seems banana plate is a rite of passage with these old tractors. I did mine, and it helped a lot. - - - - Metalguy
That's what I'm hoping. The ball joint has so much play in it that when you move into reverse the the valve barely moved. I think correcting this should improve wheel torque. On a more positive note the PO sent me the decal kit. This thing is actually starting to come together. I might need another one. This time maybe a little bit more of a project tractor. You know something to do on those cold Michigan days.

Peace to all Caveboy
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's what I'm hoping. The ball joint has so much play in it that when you move into reverse the the valve barely moved. I think correcting this should improve wheel torque. On a more positive note the PO sent me the decal kit. This thing is actually starting to come together. I might need another one. This time maybe a little bit more of a project tractor. You know something to do on those cold Michigan days.

Peace to all Caveboy
View attachment 123703
Replaced the lower oil cooler hose with low pressure hyd hose. Definitely not a job for sausage fingers. Topped off the tank and checked for leaks, none spotted. Turned the key w/no choke for a 15 - 20 seconds, didn't see a drop in the tank. So I fired it up. Waited a few seconds and didn't hear any screeching or squalling, so I cycled the 3 pt hitch a few times slowly. Then the bucket, all the way up & down two or three times plus bucket curls. Shut it down and checked the oil. It had gone down some but the tank wasn't empty and I checked while it was running for any leaks and didn't see any. Topped the tank off to about 2 - 3 inches from the fill neck and started it back up and let it run at 1/2 throttle for a couple of minutes. Checked the oil again. It hadn't dropped any but it had bubbles on the surface, not foam but lots & lots of small bubbles on the surface. Now the system had been open for about a week. One from the original split hose at the oil cooler and the other from where I removed the rear PTO valve (I put a union in and joined the hoses from the valve to complete the loop like the diagram shows for tractor w/the rear PTO valve). My question is: Do I need to bleed the system or is it common to get air in the line because of a ruptured line and will it work itself out.

I drove it around just to make sure all was good. I had the throttle a little less than half and I noticed a little hesitancy going up a little rise in the yard. Now I don't know if this is from the air in the lines or operation banana plate needs to happen sooner than later.

Peace to all
Caveboy
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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I would think by operating the hydraulic system the air in the lines would eventually return to the tank.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 
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