[anixon92]

case 222 #97223702
i converted it to hyd lift and have used it to mow about 30 minutes each time for a total of about 2-3 hours. when out today to mow and the forward speed is jerky. i have try to adjust linkage to no help. full of oil. 15-40 motor oil. this is the one i just had motor done and painted chassis and put all back together and converted to hyd lift at same time.the speed lever does not go all the way to fast forward only about 3/4 the way. if you move speed lever from neatral to the first indent spot it goes good but as soon as you move it pass there it starts to jerk. and you cann't control the speed.
the reverse works fine with the lever and goes to the full speed control range.
now i dont have any gauges to put on it to troubleshot. the lift lever works fine.
the 2 spool valve i brought off fleabay from a good seller.
what do you guys think i could check out on it. i'm thinking either convert back to manual lift because everything worked great then, or just sell the thing. i put to much time in to this thing and now this problem. the lovejoy is new. its the same pump that was on it before. i do have a parts tractor here which i could i guess switch out rear hyd motor.
i dont know im tried of it.

 

[mastifflawyer]

Patience my friend.. You have the hard work out of the way. I have not heard of a hydraulic problem that could not be solved. I have not experienced a similar problem, but I am sure a bunch of other members here have. They will be along shortly.

I understand your frustration. I have been in your exact position many times. It will get fixed and you will be all set.

 

[Kenc]

Certainly sounds like a linkage problem. Does your new valve have a built in holding function? If so, did you move it back from the original spot? When you say it jerks, does that mean that it speeds up ok, just way to fast? Or does it continue to 'hunt' up and down in speed? If the latter, the neutral safety switch is suspect, or the spring on the bottom of the travel control lever/rod.

 

[99flhr]

Is this perchance the unit that was for sale recently ?

 

[anixon92]

Yes this is the unit. You want to buy it.
its about to go down the road couple miles to the big metal yard.
it doesn't have a holding valve on it.
it hunts once you pass the first indent on the saftly switch. you cann't control the speed once you pass the first indent (its either to fast or to slow) i mean before you could take lever and just keep touching it and pushing a little to go faster. this doesn't do that once past the indent. either to fast or to slow.
i dont have the bushing for around the levers on dash board either, but i wouldn't think that would do it.
i guess i will be laying under it tomorrow. and then getting back on here to tell you what i find out.
first i got to figure out why it doesn't go all the way to high speed on the dash lever.
then figure out the hunting.

 

[Billygoat]

Don't get discouraged as was said earlier, you've done the hard part. If your in South Jersey, don't take it to the metal yard, I'll work a deal to at least give more than scrap price and come pick it up. (man, my wife would kill me!) Most likely it's just a linkage wear/adjustment problem. It's a lot easier to figure it out if you have someone to move the lever while you look for ANY slop in the linkage and make sure it's moving the full amount in each direction. Hang in there man, the guys on this site will get you straightened out and you will be tickled to death.

 

[Rob_P]

i dont have the bushing for around the levers on dash board either, but i wouldn't think that would do it.

As Kenc alluded to above, if the control lever is sloppy, it could have allowed the lower bushing to come out of its seat, which could cause some of your symptoms - the control lever will move but not in the correct fashion, causing the linkage to bind or not go through its full range of motion. Check that lower bushing, spring, washer and cotter pin to make sure everything is properly in place.

 

[Billygoat]

Went to my local True Value Hardware store yesterday and got the bushings for the dash and the washers at the bottom of the levers. Dash bushings were $.45 ea, the washers are bronze thrust washers at $1.40 apiece. Got steering shaft bushing from local Napa-$1.19. Got two, gonna put one at the bottom also as I have to correct angle of shaft where control tower is bent.

 

[Billygoat]

Correction, bushings were $1.59ea, not $1.19ea. Napa part# 7-04112. Listed as wheel bushing for MTD.

 

[anixon92]

Ok guy's this is what i came up with.
i looked up double spool valve purchase and seller stated it came off a 444,446,448.
i checked the linkage length with the ones that came with valve and the ones i had on 222 and there the same length.
I took linkage off valve(travel side) and the speed lever will go all the way forward and reverse on the dash.
i notice on the double valve that the speed valve doesn't go in as far as the lift one will. and they are not staight across from each other, the travel little valve doesn't stick out has far. i took by hand and pushed and pulled on the travel little cylinder and it only go in about 1/4" into housing, were the lift side travels in about 1/2" in housing.
i hooked linkage back up and adjusted and right away the travel distance on the dash decal only goes about 3/4 to full speed on reverse/forward.
i drove tractor in reverse only for about 5 minutes with no hunting. then did forward and notice as soon as i passed the first indent on safly thing it starter hunting. also noving speed lever real slow off the indent to go faster tractor doesn't go any fast till after i pass the 3rd white line on decal. with lever all the way forward (fast) it hunts like crazy. i drove it to a dirt pile and try climbing it going forward and it would just start hunting jerking like crazy, climb hill in reverse the tractor wanted to climb and dig right in to the dirt.
so i think its got to be in the spool control valve.
i was thinking about removing double valve and trying the single and see what happens.
checked fluid and its right at the bottom of the neck on tank.
i will try to post pic of valve.

 

[anixon92]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

THE BOTTOM LINKAGE IS THE SPEED CONTROL ONE

 

[gator_rider2]

Retard works best when engine at full throttle going forward want be as jerky. The drive motor begin to become pump build pressure back to valve spool then have Hydraulic pump win direction of oil that cause motor jerk with engine low rpm's volume less than motor volume.

Adjust linkage at Balljoint so push spool all way in valve bank forward there no need engine be running to make this adjustment and safer.

Full throttle smoother retard.

Just for readers info 600 linkage should be adjusted using reverse to get spool go all way into valve bank.

 

[anixon92]

i'm lost here.
if i adjust linkage so the spool goes all the way in the bank for forward. on the speed lever on dash will only go be about half on the decal.

 

[mastifflawyer]

i'm lost here.
if i adjust linkage so the spool goes all the way in the bank for forward. on the speed lever on dash will only go be about half on the decal.

Don't feel bad. Many times we have to have someone interpret Gator's posts. Don't get me wrong I really like and respect Gator. He really knows his stuff, I just have trouble following him at times.

 

[99flhr]

^ Have to agree, the Gator knows his stuff :clap: :clap: , however I find "anixon92`s" syntax almost equally difficult :headscratcher: to decipher. I would have thought they would be kindred spirits and established a Vulcan mind meld right off the bat.

 

[anixon92]

well i took spool valve push it all the way in and adjusted linkage so now the forward lever goes all the way forward but 3/4 in reverse. try running tractor and same thing. it jerks in forward only not in reverse. i try the dirt pile and in forward the tractor started to climb and then it jerks like power/no power to wheels and the pump would sqeeze a little. but in reverse it would just buried self with wheels spinning.

just a though
the 2 lines going to bottom of oil tank does it matter which goes to pump and the other is going to cooler. the reason i ask is before the motor taken off for rebuilt and painting chassis the pump oil line was going to the back outlet hole on oil tank and i changed it to the outlet near the side of tractor frame.

 

[dbeiter]

well i took spool valve push it all the way in and adjusted linkage so now the forward lever goes all the way forward but 3/4 in reverse. try running tractor and same thing. it jerks in forward only not in reverse. i try the dirt pile and in forward the tractor started to climb and then it jerks like power/no power to wheels and the pump would sqeeze a little. but in reverse it would just buried self with wheels spinning.

just a though
the 2 lines going to bottom of oil tank does it matter which goes to pump and the other is going to cooler. the reason i ask is before the motor taken off for rebuilt and painting chassis the pump oil line was going to the back outlet hole on oil tank and i changed it to the outlet near the side of tractor frame.

You did what??? I don't follow PICS???............. Try switching them back again and see what happens then

 

[Hydriv]

Al,
Please get the serial number of your tractor, locate the correct parts manual in the Library and look at the page that shows how the tank is plumbed. You have to plumb it the same way if you want it to work properly. Also, check the J-hose to make sure that it is not badly deteriorated. Pumps SUCK oil and that suction can cause the supply hose to collapse and then re-open and the collapse and re-open. That means there is pressure one second and no pressure the next second. If something fell into the tank that is blocking the exit, that will cause oil starvation. Overheated oil can cause the walls of the tank to flake off and those flakes can block the outlet. However, you must make sure that your tractor is plumbed exactly the way it was when it left the factory. Do that.. try the tractor and report your findings. :thumbsup: :trink:

 

[Billygoat]

I agree with Tom. I'm not sure of the plumbing arrangement on your's with the tank at the dash, but on mine with the tank up front, there is a considerable size differance in the two fittings. The pump suction is a lot larger than the cooler return to the tank. Those old engineers did this for a good reason and not by chance. If the pump is not getting the flow that it needs on the suction side, performance will suffer.

 

[anixon92]

plumbing is correct.
i just took the double spool off and put the single spool on and try it and same thing so its not in the spool valve or linkage. im going to remove pump mount and check the lovejoy.