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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Changing the hydro oil on my 1977 Case 446 exactly as specified in the Clear And Simple English instructions located in the FAQ section. (Thanks Hydriv. :thumbsup: )

My concern is that even though the oil level was exactly where it needed to be when I started, 6" down from the filler cap, I only got a little more than a gallon of oil out of the system. Owners manual says it holds 5qts so I am close, but I would like to be sure.

Can there possibly be any more oil in there -- perhaps in the oil cooler or the hydro motor, and how do I get it out -- or is this certain to be all of it/enough of it?

Thanks in advance.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you ever read the instructions? :sidelaugh:

Drained from the Travel Control Valve drain port, under engine idle, until it sputtered.
And then with engine off until there was not even a hint of a drip.

John
 

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k0jdd said:
Did you ever read the instructions? :sidelaugh:

Drained from the Travel Control Valve drain port, under engine idle, until it sputtered.
And then with engine off until there was not even a hint of a drip.

John
:thumbsup: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

Not often. :facepalm:

Is that really how the manual describes to do it :headscratcher: :headscratcher:

There's no way that I would start an engine to squirt the oil out, I've read that some remove there plugs and spin it over. I pull the plug and sit for a couple of Adult Beverages. :thumbsup:
 

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Short of taking the hydraulic system to pieces, there's no practical way to drain the system 100 percent. You will always retain oil in the mid-mount lift cylinder, the oil cooler, the lines, hoses, pump, motor and valves. If you have a three-point, add that cylinder to the mix. When you change the oil in your car's engine, you won't get 100 percent out either. There will always be a thin film of oil coating the internal parts. The question here is "Does it matter?" and the answer is no it doesn't. If you are doing timely oil changes to the hydraulic system, then you are not allowing the oil to be so drastically fouled that you need to get it all out. Now, if the oil was milky or grey, then that would be different and I cover that scenario in the FAQ's.


I am against using the starter motor to drain the oil because the starters were never designed to crank for more than a few seconds at a time. It is too hard on them to use them this way. You cannot hurt the pump by allowing it to run for a few seconds after you see air spurting out the drain hole in the travel valve. The pump gears are still wet with lube and no damage will result.
 

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Stewart said:
There's no way that I would start an engine to squirt the oil out, I've read that some remove there plugs and spin it over. I pull the plug and sit for a couple of Adult Beverages. :thumbsup:
He's talking about the hydraulic oil not the engine oil. :think: :gums:
 

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Snotrocket said:
Stewart said:
There's no way that I would start an engine to squirt the oil out, I've read that some remove there plugs and spin it over. I pull the plug and sit for a couple of Adult Beverages. :thumbsup:
He's talking about the hydraulic oil not the engine oil. :think: :gums:
:drinkbuddies: :headscratcher: I thought I was too. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:
 

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I usually get 6 qts from mine when I change it both on my former 448 and my current 4018. However, I drain mine thru the case drain hose with the engine at idle, shut down the engine and then remove the plug on the travel control valve and run the engine several times for a few seconds.
As has been said, there will still be oil in the motor and the lift cylinder.
There was a time that I changed to 5W-30 for winter, but getting rid of the lighter oil was difficult and took several changes to remove it's diluting effect, so I don't do this any more.
I now use 20W-50 full synthetic oil in the hyd system and I'm pleased with it's performance.
Mad Mackie in CT
 
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