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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All right fellas, I finally had to make it official and buy myself a Case/ Ingersoll as a "user" so now I feel like I can blend in here. Had a great deal come to me last weekend locally here.It was a take all or none package so I took it all. I won't go into all the detail but what I brought home was a early 446 which has great original paint and straight metal but does puff some smoke. This one could "Morf" into a 4x4 creation at some point as I didn't buy it to use. 2cndly what I wanted when I seen it is a Ingersoll 448 , its a 1987 anniversery tractor. This machine has about 480 original hrs, this stuff was all from the original owner. The 448 is in beautiful condition. The rest of the package included a rear 3pt tiller, mower deck, 48 in snowcaster, and brinly moldboard plow.I decided since my wife does all the garden duty this would be her new machine. She absolutely loves the tractor. I have pics, but need to look at the section on how to post . So after being overwhelmed with a awesome purchase on Friday night, I turned around Sunday and bought a Case/Ingersoll 446 off Craigslist. This tractor has 1,000 hrs and is also in pretty nice shape other than needing decals. The PO had an issue where the motion linkeage rubbed on the main oil feed from pump and cut it, he just ran it till it smoked the pump. Luckily I had a pump in the 4x4 build stockroom. I swapped it in and off we go- what a nice machine! So I guess we went from No Case machines to his and hers machines now. Even though I have been using the compnents for some time building the 4x4 articulated machines, using them where they were meant to be is a whole different feeling. I do have a tech question though and it pertains to the 448- It likes to jump out from under me when first put into motion. The shift detent dash unit has decent spring pressure, I took it out to be sure it was ok. Its almost as if there is no slow speed in the control and its all full forward. Is there something I'm missing here- I know its a new style holding valve, are there any other adjustments in the system? When running the tiller- I can't move slow and when it lurches forward, I can't recover and slow it down - it goes back to center and stops. Kinda has me puzzled.Once I can figure this out she'll be a peach I'm sure- but wifey can't operate her tiller like it is!
 

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Welcome! (gotta see some pics of your articulated tractors!)

With the jumping into forward, I just got a 446 that does something similer in reverse and didn't have full speed forward. My issue seems to be the linkage to the spool valve was mis-adjusted AND there seems to be something hooked up wrong with the parking brake linkage as it's attached by a spring that when the brake is applied it pulls the travel control to neutral.

To get full forward speed I tap on the parking brake and the forward travel lever can go fully forward but I also adjusted the linkage and that helped, now I have tear into the parking brake and see what's missing/broke or hooked up wrong behind the dash.
 

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Congrats on your purchases. You've been one of us all along, because no matter what tin is on them, your tractors are all Case at heart. Some of these tractors seem to have better low-speed control than others. In any situation other than tilling, I would recommend moving the travel lever open with the engine at part-throttle, then throttling up. But since it will be a tiller tractor, the best thing to do would be to add a flow control valve. This was an option on Case and Ingersoll tractors specifically for tilling. It allows you to fine-tune the ground speed and allow the operator to dial it down to a controllable crawl.
John
 

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there seems to be something hooked up wrong with the parking brake linkage as it's attached by a spring that when the brake is applied it pulls the travel control to neutral.
If you're saying that if you are moving forward and then press the brake pedal the travel lever moves to neutral by the brake, it's not hooked up wrong from what I have read. It's supposed to work that way.
 

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whlpny said:
I brought home was a early 446 which has great original paint and straight metal but does puff some smoke. This one could "Morf" into a 4x4 creation at some point as I didn't buy it to use.

The Desert Sunset tractors are moving rapidly into the realm of "collector status". Therefore, you might want to rethink breaking this one up as it could well be worth more as a complete tractor than what you would benefit from by using the parts from it. Most of your creations have used wheels and axles from 200 series tractors. Finding trans-axles all by themselves is usually not too difficult as there is not a huge demand for them. If you have to dismantle a tractor, then choosing one from the Power Red/White years would be more appropriate as those are still in abundance.

2cndly what I wanted when I seen it is a Ingersoll 448 , its a 1987 anniversery tractor. This machine has about 480 original hrs, this stuff was all from the original owner. The 448 is in beautiful condition. The rest of the package included a rear 3pt tiller, mower deck, 48 in snowcaster, and brinly moldboard plow.I decided since my wife does all the garden duty this would be her new machine. She absolutely loves the tractor. I have pics, but need to look at the section on how to post . So after being overwhelmed with a awesome purchase on Friday night, I turned around Sunday and bought a Case/Ingersoll 446 off Craigslist. This tractor has 1,000 hrs and is also in pretty nice shape other than needing decals. The PO had an issue where the motion linkeage rubbed on the main oil feed from pump and cut it, he just ran it till it smoked the pump. Luckily I had a pump in the 4x4 build stockroom.

I swapped it in and off we go- what a nice machine! So I guess we went from No Case machines to his and hers machines now. Even though I have been using the components for some time building the 4x4 articulated machines, using them where they were meant to be is a whole different feeling. I do have a tech question though and it pertains to the 448- It likes to jump out from under me when first put into motion. The shift detent dash unit has decent spring pressure, I took it out to be sure it was ok. Its almost as if there is no slow speed in the control and its all full forward. Is there something I'm missing here-

It only takes small amounts of wear5 and tear in the travel linkage between your hand and the actual spool in the travel valve to cause this condition. Focus on removing every bit of that play including purchasing a new ball joint. That's the only way that you can regain PRECISE control over the movement of the spool. When someone purchased a tiller, the dealer was supposed to recommend the front counterweight, wheel weights, tire chains and a Flow Control Valve. There were very good reasons for each and every one of these items. You can add an aftermarket holding from places such as Surplus Center. The rest of the parts needed are hoses and fittings. If you need help with this, then just ask. The FCV makes a huge difference during tilling

I know its a new style holding valve, are there any other adjustments in the system? When running the tiller- I can't move slow and when it lurches forward, I can't recover and slow it down - it goes back to center and stops. Kinda has me puzzled.Once I can figure this out she'll be a peach I'm sure- but wifey can't operate her tiller like it is!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the input- I do see some slight play in the connector ball joint so I will replace that. Does anyone have a favorite FCV part number from Surplus center? I'm guessing this would be preferably fender mount plumbed in after the PTO valve. And I will need to bleed off the excess oil back to the oil cooler return line correct? Any good advice as to line size or anything else I need to know to make this happen? Thanks guys!!
 

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The FCV must have 1/2 ports at minimum because the entire output of the pump must be able to go through this valve without restriction. The valve should flow 10 GPM ideally but 15 GPM is acceptable. Do not use anything larger or you will lose out on the fine control aspect.

These valves are available at Surplus Center for around $80.00 or so. Most owners mount them on the right side of the dash tower, about an inch or so below the hood. The lines can then be fastened neatly to the side of the tower. You can Tee into the line going from the travel/lift valve to the oil cooler for the "dump" port on the FCV.

If you go to our Tech Section and to the Service Manuals, you will find all kinds of COLOR hydraulic flow charts in the Hydraulics sub-section that explain it all.
 

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whlpny said:
Does anyone have a favorite FCV part number from Surplus center? I'm guessing this would be preferably fender mount plumbed in after the PTO valve. And I will need to bleed off the excess oil back to the oil cooler return line correct?
I have one of these # 9-4169-10 that I'm sure will work though I haven't gotten around to installing it yet. These are typically mounted on the right side of the steering console and require a "T" connection to the low pressure oil return line. I believe there is a hydraulic manual in the tech section that will show you the exact plumbing setup. The OEM kit used steel lines to give a cleaner look but hoses can be used for the hook ups.

The reason I haven't gotten around to installing mine is that, to be honest, I haven't felt much need for it. The greatest benefit is when tilling new, hard ground but my garden has been well tilled over the years and I have no difficulty tilling without the FCV. I suggest you try yours before going to the trouble of installing a FCV unless you just want another project.
 
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