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My 48" deck is fine but a wider deck could help me complete mowing in less time. The 5' deck is too wide for my property because it is characterized by continual elevation changes rather than a continuous flat structure.

A large barrier to this is the Case deck is a left had discharge. The only idea I have come up with to date is to fabricate a 54" with the help of a machine shop. Has anyone found a better way to meet this need? All of he aftermarket decks I have checked have been right hand discharge and converting one of these to the mule drive system may not be a trivial exercise either.

Let me know if you have done this conversion or if details appear elsewhere on the Internet.
 

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So If I understand, a 4' deck is undersized for you and a 5' is too big. A 52" deck WOULD cover more ground, but only reduce 8 passes to 7! I'd be inclined to get a 60" Case deck and then fix your lawn. It is only dirt and grass seed after all, aaannnd you DO own a capable earth moving GT. [thumb up here]
 

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So If I understand, a 4' deck is undersized for you and a 5' is too big. A 52" deck WOULD cover more ground, but only reduce 8 passes to 7! I'd be inclined to get a 60" Case deck and then fix your lawn. It is only dirt and grass seed after all, aaannnd you DO own a capable earth moving GT. [thumb up here]
LOL. Reminds me of when I first bought my lake place I got a free tractor and mower deck, old JCPenney 38" deck. The deck did not have proper hangers, so I made my own, fixed height but could flex up and down. It hit all the high spots for a couple years, then smoothened out. Then went to a bigger deck and tractor 444 Case.
 

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When I bought my place, the P.O. cut the lawn twice a year (whether it needed it or not, lol) with a sickle mower. When I started cutting with my Ariens RER, I would hit an ant hill every 10ft, blowing out a cloud of sand. 30 years of mowing, it's much better!
 

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LOL! Sorry, in my previous post I meant actually haul and spread dirt to improve the "topography" of the lawn WITH the case blade,trailer or what ever the man has that was MEANT for actual grading. Although, using the 60" deck might work too depending on how many rocks lurk below the surface,,,,,
 

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My 48" deck is fine but a wider deck could help me complete mowing in less time. The 5' deck is too wide for my property because it is characterized by continual elevation changes rather than a continuous flat structure.

A large barrier to this is the Case deck is a left had discharge. The only idea I have come up with to date is to fabricate a 54" with the help of a machine shop. Has anyone found a better way to meet this need? All of he aftermarket decks I have checked have been right hand discharge and converting one of these to the mule drive system may not be a trivial exercise either.

Let me know if you have done this conversion or if details appear elsewhere on the Internet.
It's really not a huge deal to install an aftermarket deck.

There are two issues, the physical attachment, and the belt routing:

For physical attachment, Case simply connects 2 parallel steel bars to the mule bracket. They pivot up front where they attach to the mule bracket, and the mid lift arms lift up on them about 12" behind the front tires. All you need to do is suspend your deck from those parallel steel bars, at the front and center of the deck. The deck needs to pivot at the center attachment point, so that the deck can sit level no matter what height the parallel bars are lifted to. As such, the distance from the top front surface of the deck to the parallel bars above it needs to be variable. Maybe a series of holes drilled in a seel strap, and you put a pin through the hole that corresponds to your chosen deck height.

If you wanted to configure your deck to only cut at a single cutting height, then this variable distance wouldn't be necessary. You'd just let the parallel bars down on top the the deck in the height you want the deck to ride at and attach the deck to the bars in that position.


As far as the belt routing, you'll have to use a crossed over belt to change the rotation direction. First you need the right diameter pulley on your deck, to have the right blade speed. Then you'll make two smallish changes to your mule bracket:

1. There is a matching pair of pulleys in the mule bracket whose job is to "fold" the belt path, so that the belt changes from vertical orientation (where it rides the PTO pulley) to horizontal orientation (where it drives the mower pulley). Those two pulleys are at about the same height. You'll need to raise or lower one of the other of them so that one of them is about 1 or 1.5" lower than the other. This is because our belt will be running in a figure eight in order to reverse the pulley direction, and we don't want the belt to rub on itself where it criss-crosses.

2. While you're working on those pulleys, they currently point "straight backward". They currently turn the belt from running straight up and down to straight backward, and the belt routing around the deck drive pulley makes up for the distance between the two front pulleys. You'll want to change that so that those pulleys are "aimed" at the centerpoint where the belt will criss-cross. Imagine you grab the rear edge of the pulleys and twist the rear edges inward toward the centerline of the tractor. (I don't mean you should physically grab them and bend them, I just mean to give you the mental picture.) If you don't do this step, if you don't change their "aim" point, then the belt might still track ok, but it stands a good chance of jumping the pulleys and wearing prematurely.

123407


I don't mean to suggest this work would be trivial. But it is doable if you had the time and inclination.
 

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Although, using the 60" deck might work too depending on how many rocks lurk below the surface,,,,,
Don't joke about that 😳 You don't know who will take it seriously ;)

I don't like scalping with a regular deck, damn sure would not with a 60" and its timed belt :eek: I had an Ariens with a timed belt, I was working out of state and the wife would not slow down to get close to things. So I had a blade width of 12" grass to clean up,that was enough to cause the belt to jump a few teeth. That ain't pretty or cheap when the blades start talking to each other :cry: New blades, belt, and spindle housings and shafts was over $350 15 years ago 🤬

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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How about chasing down a rear discharge?(have no idea what size they were) would solve the LH discharge if thats an issue
 
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