Hallaleuya Brothers and Sisters, we have a new believer in our midst. :sidelaugh:
I'm Stoked
Finally mowed with my 444/J46 a little while ago. Quite surprised by the quality of cut. I havent even sharpened the blades, eyeball levelled the deck, and not sure what rpms the engine is running at.
I used a couple of bolts, flat washers, and prevailing torque nuts in place of the pins that attach deck to bracket and the entire thing tightened right up. I thought I'd have to attacked every attachement point on the thing but did not have to! Front of deck lifted right up too. I even half assed set the cluch disc gap (swapped out spacers and shims til the thing just touched a very little bit when disengaged).
Cut looked WAY better than the little 38" deck on my Cub and the deck is absolutely quiet and vibration free (which surprises me cause the bearings arent bad but they dont feel new either and I didnt even align the blades - but will). I'm very impressed with this dang thing. It was a blast. Its definitely NOT a little tin can lawn tractor/riding mower like the cub - of course it doesnt turn nearly as sharp but so what. I think I'm ten years old again.
Oh ,yeah, I thought low range would be way too slow but in reality when mowing its way too fast (too darned bumpy and it 'responds' to steering inputs like a 90 year old man in a '75 Cadillac Fleetwood).
Gotta say it again - I'm very impressed. I thought this thing would shake, rattle, and roll like a Model T but its solid as a rock!
I used a couple of bolts, flat washers, and prevailing torque nuts in place of the pins that attach deck to bracket and the entire thing tightened right up. I thought I'd have to attacked every attachement point on the thing but did not have to! Front of deck lifted right up too. I even half assed set the cluch disc gap (swapped out spacers and shims til the thing just touched a very little bit when disengaged).
Cut looked WAY better than the little 38" deck on my Cub and the deck is absolutely quiet and vibration free (which surprises me cause the bearings arent bad but they dont feel new either and I didnt even align the blades - but will). I'm very impressed with this dang thing. It was a blast. Its definitely NOT a little tin can lawn tractor/riding mower like the cub - of course it doesnt turn nearly as sharp but so what. I think I'm ten years old again.
Oh ,yeah, I thought low range would be way too slow but in reality when mowing its way too fast (too darned bumpy and it 'responds' to steering inputs like a 90 year old man in a '75 Cadillac Fleetwood).
Gotta say it again - I'm very impressed. I thought this thing would shake, rattle, and roll like a Model T but its solid as a rock!
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Glad you are happy with it.
Maynard :canada:
Maynard :canada:
After you shim or replace the sector gear/ replace the tie rod ends/ replace the worn axle pivot pin , shim the front wheel bearings, it will drive like a much newer Cadillac. Turning circle won`t improve though ! The P/S models are even worse. "Give me 40 acres and I`ll turn this rig around"Rockdog said:'responds' to steering inputs like a 90 year old man in a '75 Cadillac Fleetwood).
FLHR - actually the steering system / linkage is quite tight. As a matter of fact all the things that are usually discussed on this forum regarding wear are tight on this rig and its everything else thats worn out (had a loader on it and certain aspects of it were rode hard and put away wet). I'm not sure how its weight distribution with operator onboard but it definitely feels like its has a drastic understeer problem.
The only thing I dont really like about it is that due to the hills in my yard you have to adjust the travel lever every two minutes. One second you're going down hill and the cut quality isnt so good and the next your going back up and you have to give it some more flow cause it will slow down too much. Maybe if I sharpen the blades I wont have to slow down so much going down hill. Would love a foot control of some sort.
The only thing I dont really like about it is that due to the hills in my yard you have to adjust the travel lever every two minutes. One second you're going down hill and the cut quality isnt so good and the next your going back up and you have to give it some more flow cause it will slow down too much. Maybe if I sharpen the blades I wont have to slow down so much going down hill. Would love a foot control of some sort.
This is the problem that a holding valve solves. Once you set the travel lever to the desired speed it will stay there up and down the hills.Rockdog said:The only thing I dont really like about it is that due to the hills in my yard you have to adjust the travel lever every two minutes. One second you're going down hill and the cut quality isnt so good and the next your going back up and you have to give it some more flow cause it will slow down too much. Maybe if I sharpen the blades I wont have to slow down so much going down hill. Would love a foot control of some sort.
Bart,
I thought the holding valve protected from 'runaway' on steep hills. This is more of an issue where "wide open in low range is a bit too fast when going down a slight 'hill' kind of situation". If a holding valve will maintain speed that well I think I'll splurge on one.
I thought the holding valve protected from 'runaway' on steep hills. This is more of an issue where "wide open in low range is a bit too fast when going down a slight 'hill' kind of situation". If a holding valve will maintain speed that well I think I'll splurge on one.
The holding valve works on steep and shallow hills alike! My property has a lot of rolling hills and mowing it used to be a bit like riding a roller coaster but the holding valve eliminated most of the excitement. :sidelaugh:
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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