[Stewart]

Need Advice Guys :trink:

My mower deck has been sitting in the bush on a couple of 2x4's for 15-20 years. I've owned it for 30 years and have never had it apart. :thumbsup:

It was 85 degrees today so I thought of this project in the shade. :trink:

I took the cover off and all three spindles turned freely but the centre one was noisy, the left one was smooth and the right one was dry. :thumbsup:

With an electric impact and lots of luck I had the bearings out of all spindles in less than 2 hrs. :thumbsup:

All spindles had some lube and came apart with ease and undamaged, I used a 3 Jaw puller and did not have to hammer any of the pulleys. :drinkbuddies:

Now My Problems

The left and right spindles have a bend in the blade mounting flange, seems the left spindle has a bend on one side going up and the right one has a bend on one side
going down. The center spindle is straight and square to the shaft. The left spindle has bend of 1/16" and the right one is a little bit more.

Can I fix these with a BFH or do I need heat ? :headscratcher:

The second problem is the blades seem to have a little curve to them, I think the bent flange may have bent them.?

Sitting on a flat surface the center blade sits flat and straight and the other two blades the tips are 3/16' high on the outer end.

The last problem at the moment is the idler pulley arm bolt was loose and the square hole is a little large for a 3/8 carrage bolt and I was thinking of going to a 7/16 carrage bolt.

Any and all thoughts welcome. :thumbsup: :drinkbuddies:

POWER RED RR COMING

 

[bhildret]

The spindles are mild steel, but thick. You might be able to press them flat in a large vise, but hammering seems to me likely to do more harm. The outboard spindles are $45.50 each ... so judge the worth there.

Don't mess with trying to straighten blades. The material can get damaged and fracture ... at high speed when you least want it. Further, it is pretty hard to get a bent blade set back to perfectly level and clean cutting. Blades are $28.60 each ...

The idler pulley arm ... I assume you are talking about the idler in the deck (spindle to spindle bolts). There is a bushing in there that is sized for 3/8" ... better off using a hex head bolt that is 3/8" and keeping it correct ... not much spare metal on that idler bracket ... you need the pivot to work correctly and still have the nut hold, which is clamped tight to the bushing.

IMHO.

Brian

 

[Stewart]

Thanks Brian

I'll try straighten the spindles and then I'll send you a list. I've another set of blades somewhere, maybe they are straight. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

It was the bolt that goes through the deck and the square hole that is enlarged is in the deck.

Stewart :canada:

 

[Hydriv]

Need Advice Guys :trink:

My mower deck has been sitting in the bush on a couple of 2x4's for 15-20 years.

Shame on you. I'm surprised that you have the audacity to even admit such a sacrilege on this forum. :thumbdown: :thumbdown: :thumbdown:

I've owned it for 30 years and have never had it apart. :thumbsup:

The news just keeps on getting worse. Will the insanity ever stop? :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :facepalm:

It was 85 degrees today so I thought of this project in the shade. :trink:

I think that the sunstroke had already set in a long time ago, Stewie. It was way too late to get out of the sun. :lol: :lol:

I took the cover off and all three spindles turned freely but the centre one was noisy, the left one was smooth and the right one was dry. :thumbsup:

With an electric impact and lots of luck I had the bearings out of all spindles in less than 2 hrs. :thumbsup:

The only reason the deck came apart so easily is because the bearings were trying to escape an abusive owner. And who can blame them? :grin: :grin: :grin:

All spindles had some lube and came apart with ease and undamaged, I used a 3 Jaw puller and did not have to hammer any of the pulleys. :drinkbuddies:

Now My Problems

There are sites that are better equipped than this one when it comes to dealing with your problems, Stewart. Look for one with a photo of Sigmund Freud on the main page. :smile: :smile:

The left and right spindles have a bend in the blade mounting flange, seems the left spindle has a bend on one side going up and the right one has a bend on one side
going down. The center spindle is straight and square to the shaft. The left spindle has bend of 1/16" and the right one is a little bit more.
Bent flanges are the norm according to Tom Hanson, Ingy Dealer. He's not sure whether blade strikes are at fault or if the pressure from the Hi-Lift effect slowly causes it. I think that they are due to blade strikes just from scalping. The fact that the centre blade is fine but both outboard blades are bent would seem to support that theory more-so than the Hi-Lift one.

Can I fix these with a BFH or do I need heat ? :headscratcher:

I have never used heat .........just a BFH and my anvil.

The second problem is the blades seem to have a little curve to them, I think the bent flange may have bent them.?
The blades are what caused the bent flanges, not the other way around. You are :???: :???:

Sitting on a flat surface the center blade sits flat and straight and the other two blades the tips are 3/16' high on the outer end.

The last problem at the moment is the idler pulley arm bolt was loose and the square hole is a little large for a 3/8 carrage bolt and I was thinking of going to a 7/16 carrage bolt.

I would just use the MIG welder to put a couple of small welds on either side of the original carriage bolt head and deck shell to hold that bolt in position. Thirty-years from now, you can worry about it once more while you are sitting on your rocking chair in the shade . :twisted: :twisted:

Any and all thoughts welcome. :thumbsup: :drinkbuddies:

POWER RED RR COMING

I have no idea what this means. Please do not explain.

 

[Stewart]

Thanks Blondie :thumbsup:

No mig here, I'll have to stick-it. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

I think I'll give-er the Four B's. :thumbsup: Blades, Belts, Bearings and a BFH. :thumbsup: :trink: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

I'll try and have it back together before next mowing season. :headscratcher: Now if I can remember which bush it was in.

 

[Bob MacGregor]

Hi Stewart,
I put the spindles on my press supported at the ends of the "T" and press in the middle. Using a machinist's square I check my progress. Usually need to press a little beyond the 90 degree point to get them square as they will spring back some when you release the press. New blades always makes a mower deck "happier"!!!
Mad Mackie in Taxonnecticut :mrgreen: :mowlawn:

 

[Stewart]

Hi Stewart,
I put the spindles on my press supported at the ends of the "T" and press in the middle. Using a machinist's square I check my progress. Usually need to press a little beyond the 90 degree point to get them square as they will spring back some when you release the press. New blades always makes a mower deck "happier"!!!
Mad Mackie in Taxonnecticut :mrgreen: :mowlawn:

Thanks MadMac

I assume you must have a hyd press, My drill press had little effect. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

I took a 48" piece of 3/4" ridget pipe and slid it over the spindle shaft and then put the flange in my vise and it straightened real easy. :thumbsup:

I will find how good I got them when I get different blades and the mower back together. :headscratcher:

I figure I saved a brown one. :trink: :drinkbuddies:

Thanks Guys

 

[Stewart]

I found my old blades :thumbsup:

All three blades are straight and in decent condition. :trink: They must have been the originals as there is Power Red paint on them. :drinkbuddies:

Another Brown-one for the Bay of Fundy Fund. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

I've been through the Files and have not located the belt length for a J-40 Deck. C 23810 according to Bartractorman :trink: I believe I've read that these belts are standard size #4 belt. If this is true I would get one locally and order the OEM Drive belt from Brian. I'll take my old belt in and see what I get.

Any suggestions on how to balance the blades? :headscratcher:

I'm heading for the bearing shop. :thumbsup:

 

[Hydriv]

I've been through the Files and have not located the belt length for a J-40 Deck. C 23810 according to Bartractorman :trink: I believe I've read that these belts are standard size #4 belt. If this is true I would get one locally and order the OEM Drive belt from Brian. I'll take my old belt in and see what I get

Take my hand, grasshopper. Page 7 ......http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.co ... marked.pdf

Any suggestions on how to balance the blades? :headscratcher:

Now take my other hand, little one......http://www.jackssmallengines.com/service_tools4.cfm

I'm heading for the bearing shop. :thumbsup:

I hope that won't be an unbearable experience for you. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

 

[Bob MacGregor]

I think that for the most part the blades will spring back when they strike the ground, rocks, and roots but leave the "T" on the bottom of the spindles bent up in time. I got so all I did was remove the spindle housings still assembled and using a bearing removal tool I caught the ends of the "T" on each part of the bearing tool, sat all on my hydraulic press and straightened the "T", then reinstalled the housings. Every time I have a J-N deck apart I straighten the "Ts". With anti-seize on the spindles the pulleys they will come off easily. I have had to straighten the surface of several decks across where the spindles are located
On my RM48 deck I need to replace the blade adapters periodically as they in time will let the blades "rock" some causing an uneven cut.
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:

 

[Stewart]

I've been through the Files and have not located the belt length for a J-40 Deck. C 23810 according to Bartractorman :trink: I believe I've read that these belts are standard size #4 belt. If this is true I would get one locally and order the OEM Drive belt from Brian. I'll take my old belt in and see what I get

Take my hand, grasshopper. Page 7 ......http://www.manuals.casecoltingersoll.co ... marked.pdf

[highlight=#ff8040:9o39ia2p]Who would of thought to look in the Belt Guide Manual[/highlight:9o39ia2p] :headscratcher: :headscratcher: [highlight=#ffbf00:9o39ia2p]Thanks Goodlookin[/highlight:9o39ia2p]:thumbsup:

Any suggestions on how to balance the blades? :headscratcher:

Now take my other hand, little one......http://www.jackssmallengines.com/service_tools4.cfm

[highlight=#ff8040:9o39ia2p]Thanks I'll put that on my to order list[/highlight:9o39ia2p]:thumbsup:

I'm heading for the bearing shop. :thumbsup:

I hope that won't be an unbearable experience for you. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

[highlight=#ff8040:9o39ia2p]I could not believe it . $17.43 for a name brand bearing, needless to say I went for the $5.63 Import.[/highlight:9o39ia2p]

 

[eBoyDog]

Don't know how well they will hold up but I just bought 6 bearing at my O'Reilly auto parts store last weeked and they were $3.60 something each. "House" brand, 3 of them had a appeared to be older stock and had steel covers over the bearing balls while the other 3 had plastic/rubber but they were a perfect fit.

If any one's interested I will post the part number.

 

[eBoyDog]

MasterPro PT 204BBAR was the bearing part number, Also I "think" that it's made by BCA/National and they list the same bearing but with the part number BCA-204BBAR.

Bore Size: 0.75 in. (19.05mm)
Outside Diameter: 1.7805 in. (45.225mm)
Width: 0.61 in. (15.494mm)