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J-46 Mower Deck Gage Wheels

3513 Views 13 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Bob MacGregor
The I.D.s in the wheels of my deck are darned near large enough to slip over the washers / bolt heads on my deck. Didnt see anything mentioned on the "Where to buy Stuff" section. Can these still be purchased? Is there another alternative from a currently produced brand that will work in place of the orginals?

Also, Anyone know the OD of the hood hinge pin?
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^ Replacements are still available ( SEE BRIAN )

Any generic wheel with a suitable shoulder bolt can be made to "work".
The rounder the tire shoulder, the better.
I bore the holes on a drill press and install brass bushings. I also have bored holes in the axle bolts on a lathe and drilled a hole at 90 degrees into the center hole and I lube them with a needle point grease gun adapter.
Last a long time this way. I do this to new guide wheels also.
On the Yahoo forum I have pics of the process under author MadMac if you are a member there.
Bob MacGregor in Taxonnecticut :thumbsup:
Rockdog,
The "Where to buy stuff" FAQ is a work in progress. As new sources of supply are revealed to me, those will be added to the current document.

The fact that there is no reference to deck gauge wheels means that I am unaware of an alternative supplier to the Ingersoll dealer network. The part number for a pair of wheels is C26737 and the last price I had for them was $16.00. These are 6 inches in diameter so theoretically, any six inch OD wheel will work as long is it doesn't rub against other parts of the deck.
Thanks guys. I'm no purist and just want a set of wheels that will last a long time and work properly. My current Cub is a 1998 and has mowed an acre for the past 5 years and the wheels are still tight as can be and I've never lubed them. Was hoping if I picked up a set of new ones from Brian that they'd be made from an upgraded material over originals. Course they werent fooling around when they built this Case deck cause its easily twice the weight of the Cub deck (which is only 38").
Rockdog said:
Also, Anyone know the OD of the hood hinge pin?
5/16"
Be happy to help, Rockdog ... generally get to your area within 36 hours of closing up an order ...

Brian
rockdog
as to the 5/16 pin that bart stated, i use ONLY stainless steel.
i have seen too many that froze up with the regular pin.
BUT that doesn't say much for the P.O. he/ she NEVER opened the hood.
thank you. boomer
Bob MacGregor said:
I bore the holes on a drill press and install brass bushings. I also have bored holes in the axle bolts on a lathe and drilled a hole at 90 degrees into the center hole and I lube them with a needle point grease gun adapter.
Last a long time this way. I do this to new guide wheels also.
On the Yahoo forum I have pics of the process under author MadMac if you are a member there.
Bob MacGregor in Taxonnecticut :thumbsup:
Bob, I have some Stens (I think) guage wheels on an N44 deck that have steel bushings in them. I've been running them for years, but you've got to keep them lubed (which you do) or they'll likely wear down the shoulder bolts. BTW, I like your idea of making a truly greasable wheel. I might have to copy that.
Gotta pic up some paint from my local Case dealer and I'm planning to check out the wheels they have in stock. Might get lucky and have some that fit on the shelf. If not I'll probably get them from Brian along with a couple of other items.

Understand regarding the stainless for the hood hinge pin. Figured on that already. Cant get the seat mount off due to same reason. Whichever member the pin didnt turn in is frozen. Been soaking a few days now.

I'm very impressed with these old things. Looks like its been through hell and back and quite honestly all of the things I thought would be completely wore out (steering and spindle bushings, all the other bushings and levers, brackets, etc.) are still quite tight. No slop within the steering watsoever except for the fact the colum support to frame bolts are missing. Everything on this thing is overkill except for the frame.
There have been the occasional frame problems but they are few and far between. No matter how well-made something is, there are always those who will test it beyond its limits.
I think I kept one of the old shoulder bolts from my deck.
If I can remember to, I'll post what happens from 30 yrs of non greasable shoulder bolts! :wtf:
McMaster Carr carries a good selection of wheels with and without bearings. I've used some on my 60" deck that are very heavy duty and have grease fittings.
Hi Troops,
I also have used wheels with bearings and I drilled and installed a grease fitting in the bulge of the wheel and pumped grease into the cavity. However the bearinged wheels that I have used had a tread pattern on them and wore too soon from the sharp turns on pavement.
Ingersoll supplies wheels with some sort of metal bushing installed in them, I'm not sure what the metal is. I tried steel bushings years back but they wore the axle bolts out too soon. I use longer shoulder bolts and I install a flat washer on both sides of the wheels.
I'm down to one Ingersoll tractor, a 4018 and a Scag ZTR. The Scag gets many more hours put on it than it did the first year that I had it. It took me a season to get used to it.
Bob MacGregor in CT :lolno: :446:
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