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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up with all these clutch and mower deck questions? I guess the snow has melted in most places? :sidelaugh:



My 1st question..... My deck seems to mow really low even set at the 3" max height which I know it's not mowing at 3", more like 2" max. If I lower it then I'm almost tilling the dirt esp if I put it as low as it will go.

Now I have checked the reference section, the only adjustment is the leveling bolt in the back, is there something I'm missing? The only thing I can think of is the front rollers, mine are there but there is lot of play in them.

I have another deck that I got lucky and kept around which has been a blessing for parts but I have no idea what model other than early 80's 48" and it has no rollers under the front of the deck.

2nd question - Can you get the Case/Ingersoll height wheels? The ones I have I'm guessing are orginal and they are tough wheels, rubber thick wheel with inside metal side held togather with 8 bolts all with a ball bearing center shaft. I settled with a 6" wheel from my local JD lawn dealer that are 6" plastic with a ball bearing supported inner shaft. All I need is the center bearing section for mine, also need a belt idle pully which is of the same style too with 6-8 bolt that hold the puller togather.

BTW - I had a "blond" moment. I burned a perfectly good belt up as while I checked my spindle and they all turned easily, I never checked the idler pulley even with putting the belt in it!
 

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Ill set mine up level and measure the distance from bottom of deck to garage floor tomorrow evening. My J46-79 had 6" wheels on it and I replaced them with 6" wheels. Mine sits up nice and high at the max. position.
 

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The J-bolts at the rear of the deck are used to level the deck and have nothing to do with how high the deck sits off the ground. Any rollers on the deck are there as "ANTI-SCALP" devices. They are not there for the deck to ride on continuously. The deck is suspended at the front by the harness that is attached to the mule bracket. The adjustable gauge wheels at the rear is what the back edge of the deck rides on. All anti-scalp devices are supposed to sit just above the dead flat ground and only come in contact with the soil when dips and high spots are present.

When owners collide their deck into rocks and curbs etc, they can bend various parts of the deck and mounting harness. Stepping on the deck can also bend parts. You can't see these bends with the deck mounted. Often, it is a combination of bent parts such as the long, main rails of the harness plus lots of slop in the pins plus the mounting brackets that are welded to the deck. Even the rear adjustment bar that the gauge wheels are mounted on can get twisted and bent.

New gauge wheels can be bought from Brian as can just about every other part needed for the decks.
 

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Hydriv said:
Stepping on the deck can also bend parts. You can't see these bends with the deck mounted. Often, it is a combination of bent parts such as the long, main rails of the harness plus lots of slop in the pins plus the mounting brackets that are welded to the deck. Even the rear adjustment bar that the gauge wheels are mounted on can get twisted and bent.
This is why I do NOT drive over my deck to get it installed. A lot of member chose this option because it is the easiest but it can cause you to bend parts. I physically picked (by hand) up the front of my tractor the other day and positioned it over my deck so I would scratch my nice new paint but I am paying for it now with back ache.
 

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I have not had a lot of experience with removing and installing these decks. I have only removed mine once to work on my 444. When I did mine, I guess I did it "the hard way". I removed the belt and lift arm/mule drive, then slid deck out from the side. I have always been taught to never use a mower deck as a step, so from my way of thinking, driving over them wouldn't do them any good either. I know, a lot of folks do, but I think I'll just keep doing it "the hard way".
 

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There was a time when I would disconnect the mule drive, pickup the front of the tractor and walk it over the deck, however them days are GONE!!!!
I now remove the mule drive, jack up the tractor front and slide the deck out from under the tractor. I store my decks standing up on end and they are much easier to move and store with the mule drives removed and same with plows.
Mad Mackie in CT :mowlawn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The easiest way I have found to take the deck off is disconnect the mule from the tractor and slide the deck with the mule attached as far left as i can then take a floor jack and lift the front up using the right side lower bracket of snap-fast. Once the right front wheel is high enough then I slid the mule out from under the wheel and let the front end back down.

As the deck height goes, i believe my deck is little sprung with the left side lower than the right as when I raise it, the left deck wheel still make slight contact with the ground while the right doesn't yet when down and cutting grass, it make a nice level cut.

I have an extra deck which needs a lot of TLC, later this summer I going to tear it down and rebuild it if the everything is straight and true on it. The deck I'm using needs new bearings, they aren't loose and move freely but they are very noisy.

Perhaps the height is not an issue, as in some places were I'm mowing grass it's at least 12" high in places but one thing I can say, my 446 eats it up and spits it out. It's what I get for letting the grass grow while I was getting the PTO and tiller going, I'm about a month behind on my mowing.
 

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With the mule drive off you can slide the deck under the tractor from the side if you crank the steering wheel back and forth a bit.

I've never had to jack up or pickup the front of my tractor.
 
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