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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok Tom, you now have 1 strike on ya :sidelaugh: I replaced the ball and socket connector at the TCV on my 4016 hoping to cure the jumpyness when switching from neutral to forward and vice versa... but that didn't cure it, heck the old connector was tigher than the new one I bout from Brian.......... what next??? any other ideas??
 

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Because you bought that 118, I'm going to reply to this thread. :sidelaugh:

You were supposed to CHECK the ball and socket joint for free play before putting a new one on but.....what's done is done. :lol: Did you investigate the rest of the linkage for free play?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nope.......... the deck was on the tractor and I really didn't have time... yes I know excuses excuses (I already had several things to order from Brian anyway, so no biggie on that)... The rest of the TCV linkage is fine
 

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dbeiter said:
Nope.......... the deck was on the tractor and I really didn't have time... yes I know excuses excuses (I already had several things to order from Brian anyway, so no biggie on that)... The rest of the TCV linkage is fine
How would you know that it's fine if you haven't had time to remove the deck?
 

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Were you alone when you checked it? Sometimes it's advisable to cut a piece of wood and jam the spool when it is fully into the valve body. If you make it so that the spool can't move, then you can check the linkage for any free play and not wonder about what the spool is doing. IF you detect free play, then you can keep wiggling the travel lever and pinpoint the location of the free play.

9 times out of 10, the issue is free play in the linkage. Do you have a spare drive motor around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes I was alone... the kids were in watching TV or ... something... I will do that after I bring it back from the tractor show BEFORE I put the deck back on.... Yes, I do have an extra 400 series drive motor... It is off a 71 444 (My T-444).. I will report back later........ Thanks!
 

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An Ingersoll 4016 has a travel control valve with the built in holding valve. The holding valve collects crud particularly if your 4016 doesn't have a hydraulic system return filter.
The crud can cause the travel circuit to get jumpy. Fairly simple job to do but be prepared to catch the several parts in the holding valve when you remove the cover plug. You may need a replacement O ring for the cover.
Mad Mackie in Taxonnecticut :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bob, I have the hydro filter and the oil seemed to be ok when I changed it last winter... So.. you think I should remove the lower portion of the TCV and clean that?? I cannot remember what the valve looks like right now and the tractor is 30 mins away.. I will look at it tomorrow when I bring it home
 

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You don't need to remove the travel control valve just the large cap that has the holding valve parts and clean out the crud. Under the cap is a spring and two washers, don't loose them!!!
You will get some oil dripping out. The O ring on the cap may need to be replaced.
Check out the parts book to see what I'm talking about.
Mad Mackie in Taxonnecticut :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bob, I popped the cover off tonight and found that it only had one washer.. the spool was a little sticky in the back position, so I cleaned it good (it was still sticky) I am wondering if somebody previous had that bugger apart and lost a washer??? The tractor is still jumpy, I am thinking about taking it apart again and adding another washer and see what it does.. that should increase the spring pressure and possibly make it worse.. right??
 

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The spool should move smoothly, but some oil behind it may be causing it to hang up slightly when you push it into the bore. By all my manuals it should have two washers, but I don't remember how many my 4018 has, another washer will increase spring tension, try a second washer. This holding spool moves when the travel lever is moved by the operator and will stay moved until the pump pressure decreases to the point where it gets close to to the pressure caused by the motor becoming a pump as in rolling down a hill, then the spring tension moves it into the holding condition.
There was metal particle residue in mine when I removed the cap several years ago. My 4018 doesn't have a return filter and the Hydrabagger motor had been replaced by the PO. I suspect that the crud was from the Hydrabagger motor failure. The bottom of my oil tank also has more crud than my former 448 had in it's oil tank, but this 4018 has over 2,100 hours on it and come to think of it my 448 had almost 2,000 hours when I sold it!!!
Soma day Ima gonna clean it out, but it is a low priority at present!!!!! :crazy:
Mad Mackie in Taxonnecticut :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Mad Mackie, I added the second washer tonight and a third (and just for kicks removed them all) The tractor acts better with the second washer in it, but I noticed that when the oil warms up it gets jumpy......... so what else is there???
 

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The holding spool may be hanging up on something in the spool bore in the travel control valve when it heats up. Remove it, clean it up, and inspect it for evidence of chafing on something in the bore. Does the spool look like it could be installed backwards?
how many hours on your 4016? I think that the pump and or the motor on mine is getting tired.
Also the spring may have lost it's tension and or dimension, but washers should make up for that. Is the washer dragging in the bore?
Mad Mackie in Taxonnecticut :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Bob, the spool looks fine, there is no chaffing on it what so ever, I tried installing the spool backwards and that made no difference. I have around 1070 hrs on the 4016. The washers are small enough that they are not dragging in the bore... I tried 4 washers later last night to boost up the spring pressure and actually the tractor got more jumpy (though it was pretty warm by that point too)

Question, is there an o ring at the back of the holding spool?? The spool goes almost all the way back then it acts like it is going through something (feels like an o ring) I looked at my parts manual and it doesn't look like there is anything......Very poor diagram!
 

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The holding Valve is floating spool on each end that spool plug spring washer and o'ring for plug this on each end. Washer is spring retainer that fit on one end spool each end that retains spring protects spool ends.
You can only check Floating spool movement travel by taking both end plugs off remove 2 spring and 2 washer then should be able move spool in normal check for sticking at this time you check other spring clean out that end.

If holding valve checks out at full throttle on engine all good.

If still have Jumpy its drive motor time.

Agree diagram don't show well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Gator and Bob, I pulled both plugs off the holding spool and cleaned everything, I even added 2 washers to boost the spring pressure... Nothing the tractor is still jumpy in forward motion... 1 thing I did notice is that I have to move the travel lever a long distance to go forward and a very short distance to go backwards.. everything is in adjustment (when I step on the "brake pedal" it goes to neutral and neutral is at the center of the travel. I think there is something wrong in the TCV and I will have to tear into it after mowing season... Thanks DJB
 

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C31313 ROTOR ASSEMBLY (4016, 4016PS, 4018PS, 4020PS) ..

This sticking in hydraulic motor the motor is of roller and rotor type the jumping when Hydraulic pressure rise high over come sticking then jump. There be damage on out side rotor between it and outer motor housing.

Used replacement motor short money way fix.

And taking old one apart photo to this site be big help.
 
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