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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 1977 444 - Heres what I did since engine rebuild (had it rebored 1 over cranckshaft miced down 1 under). Did not run smooth at high throtle, ran good at idle. Found the generator field stud was loose (broken insulator inside, possibly grounding out) replace the armature, field stud and brushes. Started it up and found thel headlights didn't work, long story short had to replace the ingnition switch (loose connector on back, the one going to the lights) Since I replaced the ignition switch (still no lights) and now when I turn it over the thing dosent start it makes a grinding /clicking noise and it sounds like its comming from the solenoid?? I had the battery checked out at auto store and the guy told me it was still good. I can start it up with jumper cables from the car, so what gives?? Maybe the guy at auto store was wrong?? Get a new battery or could it be the solenoid?? Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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First question, is this an OEM ignition switch from an Ingersoll dealer?

As for the no crank, it sounds to me like a bad connection somewhere. My first guess would be the ground cable.

ByCo
 

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When I changed the engine around in my '76-444 (put in the engine from '74-444) I ran the battery ground to the starter/generator mount. I have read enough stories about bad grounding to the starter/generator that I would get rid of that problem once and for all. Scraped off my brand new paint to make sure the connection from cable to frame of s/g was good and solid electrically.
 

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I guess it depends what you mean by jumping. If you are jumping the solenoid on the starter side (so you wont use the switch) then the battery may be good and the problem may be insufficient voltage/bad connection to the solenoid. If you are jumping on the battery side of the solenoid I would certainly suspect the battery. Do you have a volt ohm meter
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello Gents
Thanks for response, Yes it is an OEM ignition switch, (bought it at case ingy tractor parts .com). I started it by jumping it from the battery side of the solenoid, (place jumper cable to the positive and neg terminal on battery). My digital amp/volt meter reads 13 volts at the battery terminals. It was a kid at auto parts store when I asked him to check the battery under load, it said he checked it and it was OK?? I just went out to check if I get lights when I turn the key to the lights postition and I get nothing - no lights?? So whats my next step - how do I trace the electrical system to pinpoint the problem??
 

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I went through this nonsense with a battery one time. The store used one of those expensive computerized analyzers to check the battery and they insisted there was nothing wrong with it. So I went into THEIR STORE, bought a FIVE DOLLAR hydrometer and tested the battery right in front of the kid who had been using the high-faluting analyzer and his Manager. The hydrometer showed one cell to be dead flat but the other five were fully charged. Since that day, I trust only a hydrometer test followed by a load test. At the very least, go invest in your own hydrometer and learn how to use it. Load testers often go on sale at places such as Harbour Freight and Princess Auto for less than fifty-bucks.

My money is on the battery being defective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: K 321 Electrical issues no lights now

I had it with the auto parts guy.... I droped off battery this morning and auto parts guy at counter "did not have time" to check battery, he said he would call me later with verdict, long story short...no call went back at 5pm and he tells me no tool available to open NAPA battery lid (and this is a NAPA store???) Fed up with this onionhead I said just give me a new battery as my old battery (still lying on his floor from where I left it) was from 2008. I figured ok battery is 3 yrs old anyway.

Hydriv you had your money on defective battery... You WIN!...That was the problem, defective battery, put in new battery and now the 444 starts right up and runs as she should. But now I have no lights, I have it wired correctly to the ignition switch as shown on the electrical system diagram, I checked the wires no cuts or worn insulators / jacket covers and I replaced the lightbulbs (they must have blown when the generator field stud and everything else went array). what could be the problem??
 

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Try running a temporary ground from the headlight buckets to the bat (-) terminal first. If lights work, you will have to work on the ground side of the circuit. If not,use your meter set on dc volts. Plant one lead on the (-) battery terminal and then check back of switch for voltage. If voltage not there, bad switch. If voltage there, go to connector where wires split to lights. If voltage not there, bad wire or connection from switch to connector. If voltage there, remove headlights and check for voltage where bulb terminal contacts the pigtail. If voltage not there, the pigtail has a bad wire or connection. Probably the ground though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks to you guys I got the lights working again. Billygoat was right... it was a grounding issue. and thanks for the link about the same issue in prevoius post. I have it just as Hydriv said, the ground is thru the hinge pin, I do not have ground wires from headlamp receptacle even thoug my parts manual shows them. I took off the clips that hold the headlamp receptacles and gave them a thorough cleaning. There was lots of "crud" between clips and the hood, I dont think there was a good contact (metal on metal).
 
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