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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a winter project that an other fella completed last winter, a lot of new parts and really nice tractor. He said the original block was so bad he went with a block from a john deere had it bored and the crank polished and lapped in the valves.
It runs good and after a while I heard it knock at mid to low idle, I thought it could be ignition knock, so I went through basic steps, checked the plug gap, checked for loose carburetor and tightened up the mounting bolts, set the high and low on the carburetor to factory from the book which made it surge and the governor was yanking the throttle around a lot until I got it smoothed out by turning the high speed adjustment in almost a full turn. the knock was still there so I started playing with the points and at about .014 or .015 I was able to get the knock to quiet down a lot. I ran it for about 10 minutes then idled down for a cool down then shut it off and it ran on and I heard it push air out the intake. I pulled the air cleaner and started it again and turned it off to see it plow out fuel and air. I set the points back to .020 as the book specifies and ran it for a bit, I have my knock back and when I turn it off I still hear some air out the carb and one time out the exhaust pipe. I pulled the plug looked through round hole on the carburetor side and found the T and the S stamped on the flywheel but when the points are opening up the S is not visible, I have to turn it quite a bit to find it again, I went to the other side where the half circle hole is and could not see them when the points were open either.
I have not checked the valve clearances yet but I do not think that has anything to do with this issue.
Is it possible for this engine to have been assembled and be one tooth off of timing marks and still run? could it be 180 degrees off and run?
Maybe it isn't the ignition knock maybe it is the shims for the cam or maybe it is a rod I am not sure.
I have never has a Kohler before before, but would think the air out the intake is not the normal operating procedure for these.

I tried to set my timing light up tonight just to find out it is not functioning.
I did not let the engine run a while before buying it because the price was what I would have had to pay for just a few of the hydraulics on the tractor so I paid loaded and came home.

any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Cliff
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I put my fluke multi meter on the points with the coil disconnected, and the other lead to ground and turned the flywheel with a flat screw driver while peaking in the hole, the S comes into view and then goes away and a little past the S indicator the points start to open and my tone goes away and then a couple of teeth go by and the T comes into view so I am leaning towards the cam shaft being off by a tooth but would like some others to weigh in on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
SOLVED!
loose head bolts were torqued down to spec
The manual I down loaded had the spark plug gap at .025, while reading the manual that came with this tractor on oil recommendations I noticed it needs the spar plug to be gapped at .035.
These tow items took care of my knock and my new engine runs like new.
 

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SOLVED!
loose head bolts were torqued down to spec
The manual I down loaded had the spark plug gap at .025, while reading the manual that came with this tractor on oil recommendations I noticed it needs the spar plug to be gapped at .035.
These tow items took care of my knock and my new engine runs like new.
CliffG,

There was a service bulletin way back when that changed the spark plug gap as you mention to eliminate (lessen) spark knock.

Glad you found a simple fix!

Bob
 
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