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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Model# K321AS Spec# 60324 Serial# 12096014

I just picked up an 82' 444 which was cheap, looks like hell, ran like crap however has a 3pt which is why I bought it. After some investigation and tinkering thanks to the manuals on this site (Thanks guys) this thing is just an ugly duckling that was just in need of some PM. Oil was like mud, carb was very very dirty, and the good is the compression is a solid 120+.

When I first started it before the PM, it smoked a white -ish smoke (not blue) and a lot of it, and ran like a turd! After a fresh battery, new oil, new gas, dismantled and cleaned carb she purrs pretty good but not perfect. At full throttle it misses every now and then but runs strong. Coil is new along with spark plug and wire. Also, It isn't 100% smoke free but now it smokes black like it's running rich at startup and when I go from idle or mid throttle to full. Smoke is only temporary and doesn't last long in these situations. Once throttle is set in a position and left alone it runs pretty clean, no smoke.

I reset the float to spec 11/64 - 1 1/32, Main jet out 3.25, idle out 2.5, warmed it up and tweeked all including idle set screw. Main is about 2.75-3 turns out but my question is when I go from idle or mid throttle to full and at startup, I still get that pretty good puff of black smoke.
I ran it for a while over the last couple of nights, pulled the plug and it is a nice tan color so plug isn't showing signs of running rich.

Is this puff of black smoke normal or am I really still running too rich. Or did I miss something else along this adventure. By the way this is all under NO load, tomorrow I'm installing the snowcaster to see how she reacts with load on it.

Thanks for any and all input
Joe
 

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I did not see that you set the valve lash, checked the points to make sure the contacts were dead flat or decarbonized the cylinder. IMO, you need to do these things to bring the engine into proper spec. Running a heavy load of Seafoam through the carb via the fuel tank certainly wouldn't hurt.

Your story is one that I've heard many times in the past whereby a person who is already a Case owner manages to grab up another tractor cheap but thinking that it's mostly a POS that he might part out. Then he gets it home and finds out that he has a diamond in the rough and it gets added to the fleet. This is how owners turn into collectors. :sidelaugh: They never meant to own that many units. It just happened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hydriv said:
I did not see that you set the valve lash, checked the points to make sure the contacts were dead flat or decarbonized the cylinder. IMO, you need to do these things to bring the engine into proper spec. Running a heavy load of Seafoam through the carb via the fuel tank certainly wouldn't hurt.

Your story is one that I've heard many times in the past whereby a person who is already a Case owner manages to grab up another tractor cheap but thinking that it's mostly a POS that he might part out. Then he gets it home and finds out that he has a diamond in the rough and it gets added to the fleet. This is how owners turn into collectors. :sidelaugh: They never meant to own that many units. It just happened.
Points and valve lash are on now the weekend "to-do" list. I guess I got anxious and a bit ahead of myself once I realized this motor wasn't a pos and could easily be fixed with a little cleaning and adjusting.

For decarbing is there an easy way to do this without tearing the head off? I have too many tractors in pieces right now :crazy: and would really like to keep one running as motivation to get the others back together.

On a side note, I just got my 80 448 frame back from paint and just put the axles are under it. Lookin sharp too :thumbup:
 

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The Seafoam may help to a degree but the only way to be sure that the cylinder area and the underside of the valves are carbon free is to remove the head. You could keep that task for a time when you have your Black Frame finished.

Of course, if the PO failed to clean the carb, change the oil and several other PM items, you can be sure that he has never, ever had the head off. Oil changes for the hydraulics and trans-axle should be on your list as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hydriv said:
The Seafoam may help to a degree but the only way to be sure that the cylinder area and the underside of the valves are carbon free is to remove the head. You could keep that task for a time when you have your Black Frame finished.

Of course, if the PO failed to clean the carb, change the oil and several other PM items, you can be sure that he has never, ever had the head off. Oil changes for the hydraulics and trans-axle should be on your list as well.
I need to get a new air filter so I'll grab a can when I'm at the parts store tomorrow and dump it in and see if that helps any.

The hydraulic oil I just changed and I have a new garage floor stain to prove it was necessary. Damn leak! :thumbdown:
 

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Recommend changing out the fuel line also. I almost burnt myself on that one. Fuel line looked good and seemed ok on the pump end. The end from the tank about 18" long was nothing but goo and very spongy after fresh E-10 fuel was in it for about a week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, so I thought I'd drop a quick update. Point gap is .020 and seat flat, Valves are .009 and .018 respectively. New gas, and lines are in good shape, etc... etc... etc... all looks good, right? Now it won't do anything, turn key and nothing. :shock:
So back to basics everything in neutral, safety switches working properly, all grounds good, battery fully charged, wires look good with good continuity from end to end, one blown fuse (changed), cross solenoid and engine cranks but turn key and still nothing. :wtf:

I'm not done yet thought,

For the amp continuity, the service manual says "open ampmeter" when I check this should I have continuity or not?
I still need to check ign switch and solenoid, anything else?

Just when I thought I was about to get a chance to go play and this, what a buzz kill!
 

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You should be asking yourself why the fuse blew. How do you know it didn't blow again? Sounds to me like you have a dead short somewhere. Use a multimeter or test light to see if you have power at the key switch. If you do have power there, then rotate the key to START and see if power is getting through to the one small terminal of the solenoid. If you have power there, then do the same test with the other small terminal on that solenoid.

If you have power there when you twist the key, then one of the safety switches is not making contact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hydriv said:
You should be asking yourself why the fuse blew. How do you know it didn't blow again? Sounds to me like you have a dead short somewhere. Use a multimeter or test light to see if you have power at the key switch. If you do have power there, then rotate the key to START and see if power is getting through to the one small terminal of the solenoid. If you have power there, then do the same test with the other small terminal on that solenoid.

If you have power there when you twist the key, then one of the safety switches is not making contact.
Ign switch died which was a cheap off brand, so go figure! Anyway, I swapped in a spare I had and she's cranking once again. Now onto the next problem, will this ever end? LOL. I do like this 444, just wish I was to the point of putting butt in seat, turning key, and then blowing snow which is finally falling outside.

I cleaned the carb but didn't bother to purchase a rebuild kit and used the existing gaskets (Shame on me :oops: ) now it's leaks more gas than what is going into the engine. Guess what I'm buying tomorrow :headscratcher:
 
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