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Kohler 18HP Remote Throttle, Choke Ignition Question

4517 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Hydriv
2
Can this engine be easily converted to remote ignition, throttle and choke?



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http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/pro ... ump,%20Key%2

:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
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Presumably, you are considering this for your 600.


Most likely, the size of this engine will not be a factor due to the roominess of the 600 engine bay.

The exhaust system on that engine can likely be used as is by simply using flex tubing on the tail pipe and directing it downward to below the tractor frame.

I see no reason why your stock throttle and choke controls won't work with this engine but a simple e-mail to SEW would confirm that IN WRITING.

As for the electrical, the charging circuit is no problem to connect. What you have to watch out for is the ignition wiring. If this engine does not use a conventional ignition coil but instead has it's own ignition system that gets power from the flywheel magnets, then you will have to change your ignition switch to one from an Ingersoll with a Vanguard engine. Those switches do not send power to the coils. Instead, they accept a wire FROM the coils and ground it out when the key is turned to STOP or OFF. If you send power to those coils, you would blow them both and kiss goodbye at least $100.00.
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I can't imagine why it would not be easy. You may need to purchase or fabricate a small bracket to clamp control cables to the engine and if it has a key switch mounted on the engine you would run the wires to the remote ignition switch.
In a different spec number, the CH620 is the engine used in the 7020 loaders ... and lots of other equipment.

One would think this should not be much different than other engines in terms or adapting the controls. Some fussing and fabbing for sure ... but nothing above average. You can use Kohler's web site to hunt down CH20 parts which might make the job easier/quicker.

These are 'ground to stop', magneto engines, so as Hydriv cautions you will need to flip to the Vanguard style ignition wiring ...

Brian
You can keep the stock battery ignition switch with a magneto engine with a 5 pin relay
Thank you all, I appreciate for the replies. Tom hit it right on the nose. I am continuing to evaluate the CCKA in my 646 and my options to re-power. I also got a quote from Small Engine warehouse for a 646 "replacement" Briggs 21HP Vanguard with partial muffler, lovejoy and pump bracket for $1700. This Kohler 18HP engine caught my eye because of the nice price and it includes a muffler I think I could make work as Tom stated. Brian, Bart had also put me in that direction a few weeks ago, thank you both, I have been researching the 7020 specs. I was not able to view a description of the setup in the parts manual but I did grab a model number; CH20 64666 which I found this exact motor on line at a another place, but it is $1700, engine only. I'll look at CH620 too. I haven't got to the bolt pattern to engine regarding the pump bracket yet, that is whether they are universal or not (I have an A pump). Tom thanks for the extra caution on the electrical system.
Mike, I also have a brand new Ingersoll one too not yet installed.
Regarding Small Engine Ware House, they seem to buy up overstocked engines for all different applications by different manufacturers. They seem to have a million engines. I was also looking at the Honda's. They also give you the HP not just cc.s! They even have a drop in kit for a 400 series Case. They do caution on their kits that some mod may be needed.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
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The very best engine is the one sitting in your tractor but it is costly to rebuild. I don't see the need for 21 HP in a loader because you aren't belt driving anything that will take advantage of the extra ponies. To me, the 18 HP Kohler will do the job quite nicely. It's only $1275.00. I don't believe that you can rebuild your CCK-A for that price, even if you do the teardown and reassembly. As for the pump adapter, I bet that you can find one online at one of the hydraulic retailers.
Brian: I didn't realize you were saying that the one I spec'd has been used in the 7020s. :crazy: That sounds good to me! :thumbsup: Thanks again!
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
If the engine runs on both cylinders it will be cheaper to alot cheaper to rebuild
mikebramel said:
If the engine runs on both cylinders it will be cheaper to alot cheaper to rebuild
Mike I still evaluating the CCKA with my limited engine ability/knowledge. I also work a lot of hours so my time is limited. One thing for sure is that there are many issues with it. For one, it was ran without an air filter I believe in dirty conditions for some time. I don't think they ever changed the oil filter either. This can't be good for the engine. Much of it was butchered, jury rigged, etc. The wiring caught on fire before I rewired it. The breather was flopping in the breeze and I Lock Ti-ted it in with help from Boomer. The tin for airflow has been ripped out. Governor is not working right. So far I am thinking, by the time I get done getting it right it will be a lot of $$$ and time. It is a shame to see valuable equipment treated this way. The good, I have the hydraulic system shaped up well with a new pump thanks to Tom/Group and a new hydraulic main bucket cylinder. Thank you.
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
Putting the Kohler into this tractor would give you a revived tractor in about one to two days of work time. If you rebuild the Onan, the tractor will be down for at least a week, perhaps longer. Buying the Kohler also fixes your costs to a certain amount. Rebuilding the Onan could be cheaper than going with the Kohler or it could be more expensive. It's a crap shoot. Once the Onan is out of the tractor, you then have the luxury of setting aside some money over the next couple of years to rebuild it. It would cost you nothing but your time to tear the Onan down. A machine shop may charge you a nominal fee to inspect the key parts and measure the bores. Once you have that information, you will know exactly what work needs to be done along with a list of parts needed. The project can then be costed with a reasonable degree of accuracy. Then.....you can decide whether to proceed with a rebuild or just coat everything in grease and pack it in a box for storage. That way, you have the original engine still available for a future buyer that wants to restore the tractor.
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