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2021 F-250 Super Duty 6.7 L Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend of mine has a K241 kohkler that when he crankjs it, it blowes gas out of the muffler. IMHO it is 180 degrees of time, he says all the timing marks line up. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Mine spits tiny drops of gas out of the carb while cranking when choked that are visible when the air cleaner is off. I think it is because the decompression is open while cranking? Also my motor is quite worn out . Gas out the exhaust seems like an extremely flooded situation. I am looking the manual over and scratching my head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I worked as an auto mechanic for many years and out of time seems to be my thoughts, hiow it got out of time is unknown. Could the staerter turning backwards cause it?
 

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Its beyond the scope of my experience. I do have 2 K's and manage to keep them running. The one on the 220 is my first rebuild. Reverse polarity to the starter would make it turn backwards but the bendix would not engage. Someone with more experience might be able to trouble shoot the timing by observing the valves and position of the fuel pump lobe and or points.
 

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Was the engine apart for a rebuild. ? Does the engine run ? Flooded is the first thought. But does it’s hydro lock if it has that much fuel in it ? Set points to 0.020 for a starting point for spark timing. Just guessing.

Noel
 

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I worked as an auto mechanic for many years and out of time seems to be my thoughts, hiow it got out of time is unknown. Could the staerter turning backwards cause it?
The only way to get it that far out of time would be to tear the engine down and install the cam incorrectly. Timing on these K series are set with points gap.
 

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I am thinking Kmac's friend had it open because he says the timing marks line up.
My manual is a photo copied version and the pictures are very poor. I remember quadruple checking every thing during my reassembly because it is rather confusing (especially for a greenhorn like myself).
 

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A friend of mine has a K241 kohkler that when he crankjs it, it blowes gas out of the muffler. IMHO it is 180 degrees of time, he says all the timing marks line up. Any help would be appreciated.
Might be a carb issue. Float level set too high, the float needle and seat leaking, or both. Fuel would leak out of the carb intake, which you can see by removing the air filter. I have a K321 on a Cub Cadet that I couldn’t leave the fuel turned on when I turned it off for years. When I finally got tired of shutting the fuel off and on, I bought a needle and seat. They were worn to the point of the needle had so much slop that I was surprised that it would seal even while running, and probably wasn’t. Another possibility is a broken cam. My neighbor gave up trying to fix what he thought to be a governor problem after he replaced the cam, and gave the tractor to me. The problem turned out to be the fuel line was routed over the throttle shaft holding it wide open. Within a few minutes of bringing it home, it was running fine and rode it back to his house. Not to humiliate him, but in good conscious, I couldn’t take it when the problem was so easily fixed. He said his wife wanted it out of the shed and to enjoy it. Score for me!
 

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Hold the phone! - After like 40 years - and I fill the crankcase each time I fire it up for the day because its over-due for a new set of rings (yes running on original after 40+ years!) - I've had several "flash-backs" that either popped-out or simply sucked back into the carb and went on with running. YESTERDAY - not so lucky! It's the FLOAT in the bowl sticking and the fuel pump is pushing past the shut-off level - ramming raw gas straight into the manifold. I'm now ordering a lot of parts (The Shopping Cart : Kohler Engines and Parts Store, OPEengines.com) after she "burned-up"! Yes, I do highly suggest keeping a fire extinguisher on hand - and as a matter of expedience I ran for the garden hose - which cooled things down and on a spray was able to kill the flames before calling the fire company. WHEW! - So, GET that carb serviced! As a minimum.. put a new gasket, needle & seat kit, and even a new float - and check that you have no leaks or excess fuel into that air intake! This is on a Case 220 HyDriv that's been chopping grass and tree limbs and pushing snow in winters of Pennsylvania for decades. Replaced the primary hydraulic hose twice and many belts and bearings on the 48" deck 3 times until installing my own grease fittings I pump-up each season. Fabulous heavy-Duty garden tractor!
 

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I would think (as mentioned) that much liquid gas would cause hydro-lock. Would poor compression from worn rings and or valves contribute to the possibility of liquid gas making it out of the exhaust?
 

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I would think (as mentioned) that much liquid gas would cause hydro-lock. Would poor compression from worn rings and or valves contribute to the possibility of liquid gas making it out of the exhaust?
Somewhere along the path from gas tank to muffler there is NO IGNITION taking place! There are several ways to diagnose his problem. Hydro-lock would require a full load of raw gas in the cylinder! Almost impossible to experience short of removing the sparkplug.. and pouring it full on the bottom of a compression stroke! hee hee - Yep, that would produce it (if you can screw the plug back in before it drizzles down past the rings on down into the crankcase). That's simply playing Devil's advocate worst-case to demonstrate how unlikely "lock" could occur. So no - I say it's flooding (these carb floats are notorious for it) and not firing.. and yes eventually it will start tossing gas out the exhaust because it simply has nowhere else to go. Remove the spark-plug. Give it a few cranks to blow out anything left-over in there. Clean it up and then Lightly, hold a finger over the opening and "tick it over". See if you have (1) compression and (2) suction. This can be done with a friend turning over the rubbery plastic fan - as it should turn over freely at this point. If you have these two things - it means the piston is going up n down and the Intake/Exhaust valves are working! (Make sure the oil level is up to the mark on your stick) - My opinion.. from 40 years of keeping mine running.. you have no spark and a bad flooded carb. It is just "doing what they will do" in that condition. POINTS! The cam that operates the breaker points on these wears down! Mine is about shot and only delivers a few thousandths movement! If you run too low on oil.. it will actually Stop opening the breaker points! I'll probably switch to a 3rd party electronic ignition that day..


I would establish spark.. replace the plug.. rebuild the carb.. and have that puppy cutting my grass or pulling my trailer! Not taking up space.. haha These K241's are nearly impossible to kill - the saying should be "nothing runs like a Kohler K241-series"! - Just make sure it has OIL in that crankcase! Unlike the over computerized crap made today (to keep the tree hugging green-freaks happy..) - these are like a trip to the PAST when Steam power was still KING.. (and old steam turbines were pushing current out onto the electric grid..) - oops! - my bad - I think they STILL ARE!


BTW - I found a gold mine for "needed parts" on Amazon! - Not "perfect" but lots better that those prices from Wisconsin! (fuel pumps for $149???) - "k241 Carburetor K301 Carburetor Kit Compatible with Kohler K241 Carburetor K301 Carburetor Cast Iron 10 HP 12 HP Carburetor, Replace 47-853-23-S Carb, 47-559-11-S Fuel Pump" - Brand: KAKO >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> $25.96 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

 

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2021 F-250 Super Duty 6.7 L Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Was the engine apart for a rebuild. ? Does the engine run ? Flooded is the first thought. But does it’s hydro lock if it has that much fuel in it ? Set points to 0.020 for a starting point for spark timing. Just guessing.

Noel
The engine was not apart according to him, but it had sat for a few years. I,ve never heard the engine run. We tried to start it, new carb, and a couple of other parts I don'r recall what they were. It would crank good but when it started blowing fuel out the exhaust we quit on it saying we would try again the next day, that next day has been over a year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Somewhere along the path from gas tank to muffler there is NO IGNITION taking place! There are several ways to diagnose his problem. Hydro-lock would require a full load of raw gas in the cylinder! Almost impossible to experience short of removing the sparkplug.. and pouring it full on the bottom of a compression stroke! hee hee - Yep, that would produce it (if you can screw the plug back in before it drizzles down past the rings on down into the crankcase). That's simply playing Devil's advocate worst-case to demonstrate how unlikely "lock" could occur. So no - I say it's flooding (these carb floats are notorious for it) and not firing.. and yes eventually it will start tossing gas out the exhaust because it simply has nowhere else to go. Remove the spark-plug. Give it a few cranks to blow out anything left-over in there. Clean it up and then Lightly, hold a finger over the opening and "tick it over". See if you have (1) compression and (2) suction. This can be done with a friend turning over the rubbery plastic fan - as it should turn over freely at this point. If you have these two things - it means the piston is going up n down and the Intake/Exhaust valves are working! (Make sure the oil level is up to the mark on your stick) - My opinion.. from 40 years of keeping mine running.. you have no spark and a bad flooded carb. It is just "doing what they will do" in that condition. POINTS! The cam that operates the breaker points on these wears down! Mine is about shot and only delivers a few thousandths movement! If you run too low on oil.. it will actually Stop opening the breaker points! I'll probably switch to a 3rd party electronic ignition that day..


I would establish spark.. replace the plug.. rebuild the carb.. and have that puppy cutting my grass or pulling my trailer! Not taking up space.. haha These K241's are nearly impossible to kill - the saying should be "nothing runs like a Kohler K241-series"! - Just make sure it has OIL in that crankcase! Unlike the over computerized crap made today (to keep the tree hugging green-freaks happy..) - these are like a trip to the PAST when Steam power was still KING.. (and old steam turbines were pushing current out onto the electric grid..) - oops! - my bad - I think they STILL ARE!


BTW - I found a gold mine for "needed parts" on Amazon! - Not "perfect" but lots better that those prices from Wisconsin! (fuel pumps for $149???) - "k241 Carburetor K301 Carburetor Kit Compatible with Kohler K241 Carburetor K301 Carburetor Cast Iron 10 HP 12 HP Carburetor, Replace 47-853-23-S Carb, 47-559-11-S Fuel Pump" - Brand: KAKO >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> $25.96 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

I will try to get back on it sometime this winter, it will run or it won't either way Ill have him come get it. Thanks for all the replies.
 

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Let me know when you get a round toit. Glad to help if I can - BTW - Cancelled my order to "lawnmowerpros.com" - they had my items on back-order for 9 days and never told me! Another 3-7 days AFTER they get em and $9.99 shipping from KS? Forget it! - Just ordered the "kit" on Amazon Prime and its supposed to be here Saturday! Let YOU know how it goes - I got winter wood to haul split and stack..
 
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