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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I don’t have them off yet. I’m in need of a spring compressor. So.. I take out the valves, take the valves and block to the machine shop, they grind and whatever else is needed, correct? The shop will tell me if I need new valves?

I found a test to blow air through the exhaust and intake and see if the valves seat properly. Neither of mine seat. Intake was very leaky, exhaust some. I’m assuming this is at least not good, and should be fixed.
 

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Yep, pull the valves off, take the things to a machine shop and they'll resurface the seats. Doesn't take long, and most machine shops have the special jig required to do it.
 

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I don't have them off yet. I'm in need of a spring compressor. So.. I take out the valves, take the valves and block to the machine shop, they grind and whatever else is needed, correct? The shop will tell me if I need new valves?

I found a test to blow air through the exhaust and intake and see if the valves seat properly. Neither of mine seat. Intake was very leaky, exhaust some. I'm assuming this is at least not good, and should be fixed.
Some of the major auto parts stores have a loaner program on specialty tools.

:cheers:
Gordy
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Progress! Valves off. I really don’t know if they look bad or not. Sadly I think I need to replace one of the springs. See the images below. Look good bad??
 

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This picture looks interesting, Hard to tell, but where it mates to the block looks kind of odd. Your block, seems to be better though. Best taking them in to a shop and they'll tell you right away.

Why do you think you need to replace a spring?


Kind of looks like the below? This one needs to be done,


Here's what they should look like, after getting ground, (same valves as above)
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
If you look at image 4 of six. Look closely at the very bottom of the left side spring. You can see two small springs poking out. One I found rolling around. That can’t be good.
 

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Dan,

It appears that the springs that you mention are part of the valve rotators that were only included with the K321 used on the 224/444/600 models.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Got my block back with valves all set. He also checked the head and block surface. Apparently the block was way way off, but it’s all good now. Due to miscommunication my crank was left in still so I need to remove and then clean the block. Flywheel side is totally ready, but the other side, I’m not sure what is needed. The coupler is on. Does that need removing or just a gentle tap on the crank til it’s out?

Once out im planning to degrease the inside of the block, then wash inside with laundry soap and pressure wash, dry like a madman, spray with wd40, spray with brake cleaner , wipe down repeatedly. Sound reasonable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The coupler was one Allen key and after that the crank fell out into my hands. Very easy. Tapped out the camshaft then implemented my above plan. Worked very well I think. Now time to reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Well I spoke to soon. Threads in my connecting rod are stripped. The two tricks I know are heli coil or tap to next largest size bolt. Are either of these good for repair? Or is it time for new connect g rod?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
I’m looking for one now. Will about any various eBay aftermarket rod work? Or is case special?

Also trying to make sure I get the correct journal size. Fairly certain it’s standard. I measured with digital micrometer multiple times. Lowest value is 1.49xx highest 1.51 . Hoping I have this figured correctly as a standard.
 

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I would recommend getting a quality rod from a reputable source. That could be a good Ebay seller or one of our dealers here.

Your crank seems to be standard at 1.500". I do have to question the measurements you are reporting. It may be your measuring device, technique, or the crank is really that bad. I would have a machine shop measure your crank to make sure you are within spec. Out of round is 0.0005" on the pin. You are getting 0.002". That would mean the crank needs to be turned and you then would need an undersized rod.

Just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I suspect my measuring method is not the best. The shop measured and I’m in spec, just not sure which spec.

Just adjusted the valves. Going to put the flywheel on next. My new rod should show up next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I’m reading specs for tightening the new connecting rod bolts. The notes say for new rod torque to 20% over then loosen and torque to spec. I’m hesitant to do this as I was nowhere near torque when the previous threads let loose. Is this over torque still recommended?
 

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That's a new one for me too. I've tightened [competition] rod bolts to spec using a micrometer and if you overstretch the bolt, into the trash it goes. I can't for the life of me understand PURPOSELY overstretching the bolt.:headscratcher:
 

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My manual states this as well. I'm not certain of the reasoning behind it. It is an inch pound torque so maybe to seat the cap to the rod????

Where did you get the rod from? Were there instructions with it? Can you contact the rod manufacturer?

Just thinking this through.
 
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