Growing up Dad did the compost bin for 5-6 years then quit, easier just to direct bury the kitchen scraps between the rows or wider spaced plants.Gordy sounds like the same thing I have done over the years. I have compost bins for grass clippings leaves coffee grinds and ash from that fire pit in my pics. I spread that out on garden every year before winter and snow hits and then till it into soil. I started with a lot off shale and rocky soil at first but now it’s right where it needs to be.
It’s a longer process to get there without buying loads of topsoil but that’s how I did it.
Agree! Last week I loaded 750 tons of gravel with my NH loader tractor. Hauled it a mile from the pit to the farm to enlarge the yard for a new grain bin. Very satisfying to drive on a new [raised 8'] part of the yard. My bucket [and trailer floor] is nice and shiny now too. lolIf there is anything that puts me in a better mood than sitting on my 646 and moving a big ole pile o'dirt I ain't found it. I bought five tons of sifted topsoil a few months back and to avoid ruts in the yard they dumped not too far off the road. So, I got the pleasure of moving it next to the leaf mold pile today. Taking big full buckets of that fluffy topsoil was very calming. All the ballast I needed was me big arse, no tipping issue. Here's a few pics. I don't know what that thing is trying to hide behind the pine tree. Might be old age stalking me.
peace to all
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Which hitch do you have and how does it handle that much weight on the 3pt? Is it pretty smooth and doesn't seem stressed?FIrst time ever doing dirtwork with the newly built loader.
It works better than I expected. Smooth, fast, and strong.
And with the 325 lb counterweight hanging from the 3pt lift arms the turf tires got better traction than I expected.
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For simple lifting/moving projects I wouldn't have to install the counterweight.
And for muddy/sloppy conditions I'd need to remove the mower deck and install 2-link tire chains.
Which are both pretty easy to do when you can lift all four wheels up in the air!
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I hadn't really planned for that capability, I just stumbled across it. Hooray for me!
I built it based on the hh34 design. But the cylinder available to me was a 3-in ID by 5.25-in stroke. So it took a little effort to design around that. But the benefit is that it has tons of power relative to the factory version.Which hitch do you have and how does it handle that much weight on the 3pt? Is it pretty smooth and doesn't seem stressed?
Cat 1 pins are a lot wider apart than cat 0. I doubt your arms will reach that far.I built it based on the hh34 design. But the cylinder available to me was a 3-in ID by 5.25-in stroke. So it took a little effort to design around that. But the benefit is that it has tons of power relative to the factory version.
And while I was at it I went ahead and built it to cat 1 specs. I can put bushings in the lift eyes to pick up cat zero implements, and pick up cat one implements native. So that way I have a broad range of options of what I can pick up with it.
I don't know how a regular HH34 would do with this counterweight. But to me you can't beat it for effectiveness, convenience, and price. ($45 total cost including steel, rebar and concrete.)
(Fyi, I have 118 lb of RV antifreeze in each rear tire as well.)
Shop built HH34 Three point hitchMy stab at a Case HH34 three point hitch. It's pretty close to the factory specs with a couple exceptions: I chose Cat 1 (which I THOUGHT was 3/4" ID) lift arm ends instead of the 5/8" ID Cat 0. That way I can hook up to either Cat 1 or Cat 0 implements. And I had to make some allowances for...www.casecoltingersoll.com
They can spread to about 30" which I think is wide enough. But so far all my implements have been shop-built. (carryall forks, back blade, ball hitch adapter and now counterweight) So I'm not 100% certain.Cat 1 pins are a lot wider apart than cat 0. I doubt your arms will reach that far.
Cat 1 I believe is 26" and Cat 0 is 20". I was planning on doing something similar with my 3pt since the lower arms are MIA. I appreciate the link!They can spread to about 30" which I think is wide enough. But so far all my implements have been shop-built. (carryall forks, back blade, ball hitch adapter and now counterweight) So I'm not 100% certain.
I hope it helps! One last thing that may be important now that I think about it: The first implement I made was a back blade, and if I remember correctly I looked up the definition and made it to cat 1 specs. And when I tried to hook up to it I couldn't spread the arms wide enough. The tractor side swivels had reached their end of travel. And the arms couldn't crank any wider open. So I took the arms off and put them in a 20-ton shop press and gave the arms about a 10° outward bend up near the swivel on the tractor end. And now they open up fully to 30 and close down to as narrow as something like 18. The swivels on the implement end were able to make the turn without a problem. So I didn't have to put any bends out there.Cat 1 I believe is 26" and Cat 0 is 20". I was planning on doing something similar with my 3pt since the lower arms are MIA. I appreciate the link!