Let’s see photos of your tractors at work!
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Growing up Dad did the compost bin for 5-6 years then quit, easier just to direct bury the kitchen scraps between the rows or wider spaced plants.
My second garden is a no till "Back to Eden" type where you just keep piling on the grass, leaves and wood chips. Compost in place so to speak. Works great for squash, cucumbers, melons... The few weed that do start there are easily pulled from the lose mulch.
This was last summer, this closest plant is a butternut squash going crazy despite the evidence you can see of the deer pruning attempts. OH notice the lack of weeds 😁
Back saver, cucumbers on a trellis made of concrete reinforcement mesh.
Cheers,
Gordy
1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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2,776 Posts
Here are a couple of pics of my 644lbh working. Dug out a few small evergreen stumps and dug a trench 3' deep and 30' long. With rebuilding the hoe cylinders this winter the hoe worked terrific.
Keep the Peace
Harry
Keep the Peace
Harry
Attachments
Well the kind of work I like to see my 646 doing is my son teaching my 4 year old grandson how to dump the bucket when told to:
![Wheel Tire Land vehicle Plant Vehicle]()
They were leveling the lawn at my son's place to put up the blow up pool
But grandson has "his own tractor" for digging in the dirt.
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Green]()
They were leveling the lawn at my son's place to put up the blow up pool
But grandson has "his own tractor" for digging in the dirt.
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105 Posts
If there is anything that puts me in a better mood than sitting on my 646 and moving a big ole pile o'dirt I ain't found it. I bought five tons of sifted topsoil a few months back and to avoid ruts in the yard they dumped not too far off the road. So, I got the pleasure of moving it next to the leaf mold pile today. Taking big full buckets of that fluffy topsoil was very calming. All the ballast I needed was me big arse, no tipping issue. Here's a few pics. I don't know what that thing is trying to hide behind the pine tree. Might be old age stalking me.
peace to all
caveboy
![Plant Plant community Slope Tree Land lot]()
![Brown Plant Slope Natural landscape Groundcover]()
![Plant Tree Tire Grass Slope]()
![Plant Tree Grass Camera accessory Twig]()
peace to all
caveboy
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4,606 Posts
Agree! Last week I loaded 750 tons of gravel with my NH loader tractor. Hauled it a mile from the pit to the farm to enlarge the yard for a new grain bin. Very satisfying to drive on a new [raised 8'] part of the yard. My bucket [and trailer floor] is nice and shiny now too. lol
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137 Posts
Stick out your tounge and remind my shins to beware. The 220 is very helpful for moving trailers and boats around. Our lot has some tight spots. I nearly flipped the canoe trailer the first time I jack-knifed angst the over size tires. I extended the tongue so I can make those tight turns.
![Plant Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tread]()
![Plant Motor vehicle Vehicle Tree Land lot]()
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532 Posts
FIrst time ever doing dirtwork with the newly built loader.
It works better than I expected. Smooth, fast, and strong.
And with the 325 lb counterweight hanging from the 3pt lift arms the turf tires got better traction than I expected.
![Plant Tire Wheel Vehicle Tractor]()
![Plant Tree Road surface Vehicle Asphalt]()
For simple lifting/moving projects I wouldn't have to install the counterweight.
And for muddy/sloppy conditions I'd need to remove the mower deck and install 2-link tire chains.
Which are both pretty easy to do when you can lift all four wheels up in the air!
![Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Automotive tire]()
I hadn't really planned for that capability, I just stumbled across it. Hooray for me!
Bob
It works better than I expected. Smooth, fast, and strong.
And with the 325 lb counterweight hanging from the 3pt lift arms the turf tires got better traction than I expected.
For simple lifting/moving projects I wouldn't have to install the counterweight.
And for muddy/sloppy conditions I'd need to remove the mower deck and install 2-link tire chains.
Which are both pretty easy to do when you can lift all four wheels up in the air!
I hadn't really planned for that capability, I just stumbled across it. Hooray for me!
Bob
Which hitch do you have and how does it handle that much weight on the 3pt? Is it pretty smooth and doesn't seem stressed?
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532 Posts
I built it based on the hh34 design. But the cylinder available to me was a 3-in ID by 5.25-in stroke. So it took a little effort to design around that. But the benefit is that it has tons of power relative to the factory version.
And while I was at it I went ahead and built it to cat 1 specs. I can put bushings in the lift eyes to pick up cat zero implements, and pick up cat one implements native. So that way I have a broad range of options of what I can pick up with it.
I don't know how a regular HH34 would do with this counterweight. But to me you can't beat it for effectiveness, convenience, and price. ($45 total cost including steel, rebar and concrete.)
(Fyi, I have 118 lb of RV antifreeze in each rear tire as well.)
Shop built HH34 Three point hitch
My stab at a Case HH34 three point hitch. It's pretty close to the factory specs with a couple exceptions: I chose Cat 1 (which I THOUGHT was 3/4" ID) lift arm ends instead of the 5/8" ID Cat 0. That way I can hook up to either Cat 1 or Cat 0 implements. And I had to make some allowances for...
www.casecoltingersoll.com
Bob
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4,606 Posts
Cat 1 pins are a lot wider apart than cat 0. I doubt your arms will reach that far.I built it based on the hh34 design. But the cylinder available to me was a 3-in ID by 5.25-in stroke. So it took a little effort to design around that. But the benefit is that it has tons of power relative to the factory version.
And while I was at it I went ahead and built it to cat 1 specs. I can put bushings in the lift eyes to pick up cat zero implements, and pick up cat one implements native. So that way I have a broad range of options of what I can pick up with it.
I don't know how a regular HH34 would do with this counterweight. But to me you can't beat it for effectiveness, convenience, and price. ($45 total cost including steel, rebar and concrete.)
(Fyi, I have 118 lb of RV antifreeze in each rear tire as well.)
Shop built HH34 Three point hitch
My stab at a Case HH34 three point hitch. It's pretty close to the factory specs with a couple exceptions: I chose Cat 1 (which I THOUGHT was 3/4" ID) lift arm ends instead of the 5/8" ID Cat 0. That way I can hook up to either Cat 1 or Cat 0 implements. And I had to make some allowances for...
Bob
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532 Posts
They can spread to about 30" which I think is wide enough. But so far all my implements have been shop-built. (carryall forks, back blade, ball hitch adapter and now counterweight) So I'm not 100% certain.
Bob
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532 Posts
Cat 1 I believe is 26" and Cat 0 is 20". I was planning on doing something similar with my 3pt since the lower arms are MIA. I appreciate the link!
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532 Posts
I hope it helps! One last thing that may be important now that I think about it: The first implement I made was a back blade, and if I remember correctly I looked up the definition and made it to cat 1 specs. And when I tried to hook up to it I couldn't spread the arms wide enough. The tractor side swivels had reached their end of travel. And the arms couldn't crank any wider open. So I took the arms off and put them in a 20-ton shop press and gave the arms about a 10° outward bend up near the swivel on the tractor end. And now they open up fully to 30 and close down to as narrow as something like 18. The swivels on the implement end were able to make the turn without a problem. So I didn't have to put any bends out there.
So if you're making your own lift arms you may have to give them a similar bend.
And if you're thinking about cat one, then err on the side of making the lifting arms too long not too short. Because the shorter they are the harder it is to get that wide open.
Bob
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4,606 Posts
The longer the arms however, the further out the implement is and the less you can lift. Don't underestimate the weight of cat 1 implements, used to have a little 6" rear blade [JD] that would tip the scales north of 700 pounds. My only cat 1 attachments I have left here is a post hole auger and a Splitfire wood splitter and no way is a Case GT even going to lift them let alone have the hydraulic flow to run them.
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1,159 Posts
My brother had a Siberian Elm tree in his yard taken down by a tree service. When it's "go time" I'm not to good at taking photos. I did get a couple since Saturday was sooooo hot and I needed a few breaks.
![Plant Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Window]()
Once the cutting was done, the 6018 was put to work. It had no problem picking up the big rounds.
![Tire Plant Wheel Automotive tire Building]()
This was the entire tree loaded. The stump was already ground when I got there. You can see the 6018 resting under a shade tree in the background. I have never burned Siberian Elm. I read it is dense and has a high BTU rating. The down side is it stinks and boy does it! My boiler won't care when it's -10 in a few years when this stuff will get used.
Elm is fairly rare in my area. In fact this is only the 2nd Elm tree I have ever processed. The other was red elm and burned well.
Anyone have experience with this firewood?
Once the cutting was done, the 6018 was put to work. It had no problem picking up the big rounds.
This was the entire tree loaded. The stump was already ground when I got there. You can see the 6018 resting under a shade tree in the background. I have never burned Siberian Elm. I read it is dense and has a high BTU rating. The down side is it stinks and boy does it! My boiler won't care when it's -10 in a few years when this stuff will get used.
Elm is fairly rare in my area. In fact this is only the 2nd Elm tree I have ever processed. The other was red elm and burned well.
Anyone have experience with this firewood?
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