[k0jdd]

Today I started the refurbishment of a CASE CAB that I somehow managed to separate from the tractor it was attached to, without having to buy the tractor. :thumbsup: The original C/L ad appeared here -> https://casecoltingersoll.com/showthread.php/12510-Milton-(Janesville)-WI-CL-4020-PS-1-blower-cab
I can't quite decide what model this cab is :headscratcher: My guess is that it is a composite of sorts.

• It has the sliding doors like a J2.[/*:m:12kjlmke]
• It has a one piece rear mounting panel with the 3" vent hole in it like a K2.
  (However, someone has really butchered that up to fit it on that 4020 to their liking)[/*:m:12kjlmke]

Question to all: Were there any early production K2's with sliding doors?

After picking it up, my next step was to break out the parts manual and inventory what I had to work with, what I needed, and send out a "wish list" to a few dealers to see what OEM parts might still be available. Here is what I was hoping to find. (This actually reads more like a joke sheet..)

front frame mounts
QTY 1 C25519 MOUNT - front, L.H. (or C19579)
QTY 1 C25520 MOUNT - front, R.H. (or C19580)

rear mounting panel
QTY 1 C25511 PANEL - rear, mounting - (K-2)
QTY 1 C25513 SPACER - L.H. - (K-2)
QTY 1 C25515 PANEL - R.H. - (K-2)

doors - preferred choice
QTY 1 C25529 DOOR - L.H. (K-2)
QTY 1 C25531 DOOR - R.H. (K-2)
QTY 2 C25516 FRAME - door, upper
QTY 2 C25527 BRACKET - mounting, door
QTY 2 C25523 HANDLE - inside
QTY 2 C25524 HANDLE - outside
QTY 4 C25525 SPACER - handle

doors - alternate choice
QTY 1 C25266 DOOR - L.H. (J-2) black
QTY 1 C25267 DOOR - R.H. (J-2) black

Misc items
QTY 1 C19598 MOULDING - channel, vinyl (16' roll)
QTY 1 C19569 WIPER - windshield
QTY 1 C25228 HANDLE - wiper
QTY 1 C19590 WINDOW - rear, plastic
QTY 1 C25521 COVER - motor (J-2, K-1, K-2) black

Against the odds, Brian Hildret (Salem Power Equipment, Plymouth MI, highly recommended) actually did locate the thing I needed most - THE FRONT MOUNTING BRACKETS! :trink: :trink: :trink: He also found a roll of the vinyl moulding. Nice and pliable too.. :thumbup: (The vinyl, not Brian)
NOTE: If you have any of the 'preferred' door items or the misc stuff, and would consider selling them, please PM me and we can discuss what you have.

The brackets arrived today, 7/16/2011, and I did a dry-fit of the cab to the 446 to make sure things are well under control before proceeding. My 446 had once been fitted with a cab, before I owned the 446, but the PO kept that cab. Anyway, miracle of miracles, I was able to use all the previously drilled holes to mount the new cab. :thumbsup: Here are the pictures.

So what are the next steps?

1. Complete dis-assembly and painting of the steel parts. Re-assembly using stainless steel hardware.
2. Replacement of the motor cover and doors. I have inquiries in to some local boat cover makers about this project, but nothing concrete as of yet. I am pretty sure the fabric is polyester and the windows are definitely cold-crack resistant PVC.

NOTE: If SNOTROCKET is reading this, I would gladly let him weld up some all steel doors for me and would make it worth his while. Let's see if he PMs me about that. :crazy:

As always, comments and suggestions are welcome.
Thanks for reading.

John

 

[Snotrocket]

NOTE: If SNOTROCKET is reading this, I would gladly let him weld up some all steel doors for me and would make it worth his while. Let's see if he PMs me about that. :crazy:

As always, comments and suggestions are welcome.
Thanks for reading.

John

If you lived closer I would in a heart beat. :thumbsup: I'm not the worlds greatest welder anyway. You would be better off finding someone else to do them. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Looks like a fun project though. I'm jealous you have the rear piece. I had to make mine.

 

[Sylvester Calzone]

just a suggestion,
I did it with my cab and I think Sno did it aswell.
the top 4 bolts, replace them with eye bolts so you can take the cab off or put it on easier.

keep the photo's coming

 

[Snotrocket]

Mine already had them on there. They would be very handy if you want to take it off and rig up some type of over head pulley system in your shop.

I just leave mine on all the time.

 

[CASE 220/4]

John,
Can you take a picture of the frame mounts? I'd like to see how they mount to the cab and frame. I have black brackets under the foot rests on my 446 and they look similar to the cab brackets I saw on ebay a few weeks ago but there are no holes drilled in my fenders.

 

[k0jdd]

John,
Can you take a picture of the frame mounts?

Front? Rear? Front and Rear? :headscratcher:

When making such a request it's always a good idea to be VERY specific :thumbsup:

So here are two shots of the left side front mounting

and one shot of the left side rear mounting.

Note that there is a spacer in between the fender and the rear mount panel that is used on pre-1980 tractors.
[The mounting bolts in this pic are temporary - just stuff I had laying around - please ignore them.]

 

[CASE 220/4]

Thank you for those pics. I have a 78 but I have put newer fenders on it so hopefully I will not need to use a spacer like the one pictured. If I do then I will most likely have to make it since Im pretty sure those cant be bought or even found anymore.

 

[Hydriv]

The spacers likely have to do with the TWO INCH difference in the wheelbase, not the difference in fender style.

 

[CASE 220/4]

The spacers likely have to do with the TWO INCH difference in the wheelbase, not the difference in fender style.

I just confirmed that with my trusty tape measure.

 

[markgru02919]

What I notice in the photos was the front cab mount has what appears to be 4 holes in it, allowing the option of mounting the front of the cab higher. The current mounting configuration in the photo shows the front of the cab mounted in the highest / tallest position. Just out of curiosity could you remove the back spacers and mount directly to the fenders and lower the front to the bottom 2 mounting holes on the bracket and still have the cab level? From the photo it seems the bolt pattern and the spacer in the rear are about the same height.
I was glad to see the photos of this cab and the mounting; they are going to help me with the mounting of my cab and the 3rd set of brackets I am making, The original front mounting brackets that came with my cab have been cut and butchered.
Mark

 

[k0jdd]

Just out of curiosity could you remove the back spacers and mount directly to the fenders and lower the front to the bottom 2 mounting holes on the bracket and still have the cab level? From the photo it seems the bolt pattern and the spacer in the rear are about the same height.

My response is that I think it really depends on the tractor. :crazy:

In the case of my 77-446, the Cab can NOT be mounted without the spacers. :thumbdown: The rear mounting bracket will not go any lower and still fit between the fenders. (I previously wrote that some PO had modified that rear mounting bracket, but the modifications have no bearing on this particular issue, it would not go any lower even if it were stock.)

On another tractor, who knows. :headscratcher:

The 4020 that this cab was previously mounted on did not use the spacers (but the PO was smart enough to save them for the future :trink: ). The PO had fabricated his own front brackets, so I can not tell you what set of holes the 4020 might have used. :eh:

Hydriv opined that the spacers might have something to do with the change to the longer wheelbase in 1980, as opposed to the fender height, which also changed somewhere after 1977. It might be that, it might be both. I simply don't know.

The final unanswered question is what is the intended purpose of the two sets of holes on the front brackets?

• It could be to allow for spacers, or no spacers.
• It could be to allow for different fender configurations.
• It could be to allow use of the same bracket on a low wheel tractor with a J1/K1 cab.
• It could even be to allow you to drop the front edge from level for a more 'jaunty' look. :sidelaugh: (But who would want to drain the roof directly onto the windshield :facepalm: )

Anyone have any more thoughts for markgru02919 ?

John

 

[k0jdd]

2. Replacement of the motor cover and doors. I have inquiries in to some local boat cover makers about this project, but nothing concrete as of yet. I am pretty sure the fabric is polyester and the windows are definitely cold-crack resistant PVC.

Dropped it off today. Estimated at about 4 hours labor plus materials. Includes a new 40mil PVC rear window.
Rough estimated total is $250.00. I know it does not add $250.00 to the value of the cab but what can you do?

John

 

[CASE 220/4]

John, I still need to refurbish my K series cab and the hinged doors are what need the most attention. I look forward to seeing how your doors turn out as I may decide to do the same.

 

[k0jdd]

Lighting...

It's been hot everywhere including here in da big woods, so you are probably not surprised that I have not done any paint prep or sandblasting yet.

I have got the lighting roughed in, and today I gave it a test drive. I have posted a video below.
Kudos to Snotrocket for setting the warning light bar so high. (Pun intended...)

John

 

[Snotrocket]

Very nice!

Is that all running off the ebay control box? LED lights?

 

[k0jdd]

Is that all running off the ebay control box? LED lights?

The gumball is one I had around, it's an incandescent lamp with a little motor for revolving the reflector. That draws about 1 amp.

The other six lamps are LED units powered off the eBay purchased control box. (search for '18 led amber warning strobe')
The two rear lamps are stock units (Blazer International model CW1544A.)
The four side lamps use the LED blocks that came with the control box. Since those were not weatherproof I remounted them in some clearance lamp housings (Blazer International model B480A.)

The are three LEDs in each of the side lamps and six LEDs in each of the rear lamps.
All together, the LEDs pull less that 100 milliamps .

 

[CASE 220/4]

Hey Snot, what year is your tractor and what model cab do you have on it? Id like to know why you dont need the spacers but k0jdd does. I need to figure my own cab project out before it too late in the year. If I cant get it to fit right then Im buying a new tractor :mrgreen:

 

[k0jdd]

Painted today

Finally cool enough to prep and paint. :thumbsup:

Here is the 'laundry' out on the line to dry. :wave:

{Photos no longer available, Sorry}

John

 

[markgru02919]

Looks real good John, How much paint did you need? Did you paint it outside? If you did paint it outside would you let me know how your lawn stands up to the overspray. I do not have a garage so I will be painting mine outdoors but do not want to ruin my lawn. Are you going to paint the nuts and bolts used to assemble the cab also? You are giving me the motivation I need to get my a-- in gear to get my cab done.
Mark

 

[k0jdd]

Looks real good John, How much paint did you need?

I used almost a quart of primer surfacer because it goes on very thick for sanding.
I used a little more than 1/2 a quart of color topcoat . YMMV

Did you paint it outside? If you did paint it outside would you let me know how your lawn stands up to the overspray. I do not have a garage so I will be painting mine outdoors but do not want to ruin my lawn.

Yes, I painted outside when it was either windless or only a slight breeze. Early mornings favor that as long as it's not too cool. As you see from the photos I use a picnic table and the dog run cable as improvised paint supports.

I have never seen any overspray on the lawn. To the contrary, most of it goes airborne and blows away. Initially this worried me, but I keep the windows and doors closed on the house and garage and it does not appear to be a problem. It also helps that I have over 400 feet through heavy woods to the neighbors on either side. Once again, YMMV.

I am a total newbie to painting, so as far as I know I am breaking every rule in the book. :facepalm:

Are you going to paint the nuts and bolts used to assemble the cab also?

I am using stainless -- because I got it for free. :trink: The OEM hardware that I took off appeared to be high quality galvanized. It was not painted.

Keep at it.

John