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Hello,

I have a Ingersoll 3018 with a B&S Vanguard motor model number 350447-1139-A1. Code is 95072511. Exhaust pipes broke off muffler, wondering if that may be contributing to a fuel pressure issue I am having. After 20 minutes or so of cutting tractor acts like it is starving for fuel. I stop and open the choke to full, sometimes removing the fuel cap helps (I am currently looking for a new cap). Usually let idle in full choke for 5-10 minutes until the filter fills back up and I can cut for a short period till it happens again. I just cleaned out the tank and replaced fuel line from pump back to the tank including the filter and an in-line shutoff I installed. I am going to spray out the carb as well and change plugs. Air cleaner is new. Anyhow I cannot find this muffler/exhaust type anywhere. I have seen pictures on a 4018 with this exhaust. Pipes appear to either be pressed, welded, or all one piece with muffler. There is a bracket on the left side that extends down to just above the front pulley and mounts to the front of the engine. Outlet is out the front of the muffler on the right side and is circular with ribs. Comments or suggestions on issue and where I can get this muffler?

Thank you
 

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Welcome aboard zman335 !!! Great to have you here. Sorry I can't help you on the muffler bit one of the dealers here may be able to. Please post some pics when you are able to.

Enjoy the site
Capt Dan
 

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The part number for the muffler is C33469. Salem Power is showing it as temporarily unavailable. This muffler is made by Briggs & Stratton to Ingersoll specs.
If you are in dire need of a muffler, you can order one from a B&S dealer that will fit but may not have the lower support that bolts to the engine and the exhaust output will need to be modified. I will research the B&S muffler and post the P/N and mods needed to make it work.
 

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zman,

Welcome to the group, Take the fuel line off the engine inlet to the fuel pump and lower it, to see if you get good fuel flow with gravity. If good reconnect and take the fuel line off at the carb, and crank the engine over to see if the fuel pump is working properly, use a soup can to catch the gas. There is a vent hole in the fuel cap that may need to be cleaned. Some have accidentally crimped the fuel line when putting the tank back in. Not sure about the newer tractors but my older ones have a filter screen on the elbow that goes into the tank, that can plug up and needs to be removed from the tank to clean it.

Is the muffler and pipe in good enough shape to have it welded back together? Been there and done that :gums:

:cheers:
Gordy
 

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BIG WELCOME TO CCI.
Always glad to have new members from the great state of Ohio.:goodpost::+1:
Do you have any friends with a welder that could fix your old one :drinkbuddies:
A new muffler is going to coast you plenty, I'd try fixing your old one first:thumbup:
You might find a used one on ebay or maybe check out CL you might get lucky.:fingerscrossed:
Like the captain said please add some photos of your tractor and the muffler you have :coolphotos:
Anytime you have to have the choke on like your talking about you must have a dirty carb or a vacuum leak:mechanic:
the choke is for starting only I never leave any of my tractors on choke for very long, that's just my opinion.:shhh:
You might want to try seafoam in your fuel tank, here a link below
https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-official-video-tips-for-your-ice-auger/
Please enjoy your time here and thanks for joining our great group of members.:thumbup:

bigman:usa2:
 

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Hello & Welcome zman, We are glad to have you here with us,ENJOY the site. It is our understanding that you can get a briggs muffler # 690931 to make it work.We do stock this muffler and when we get time are going to try this to be sure, I bebieve the output pipe needs to be modified. Take Care From Bill & Charlie at Barneveld Imp.608-924-1662, www.barneveldimp.com
 

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BarnImp.1662 has posted the only B&S muffler option, P/N 690931. With the inlet pipes connected to the sides of the muffler I think that it is not as wide so the 90 degree deflector P/N 495518, figure 676C will work OK on this muffler.
Here are a few pics of my 4018 with an 18 Vanguard repower with an Ingersoll muffler. This is a C33469 muffler. P6140076.jpg P6140077.jpg P6140078.jpg P6140079.jpg
 

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Well....a BIG THANK YOU once again to Bob MacGregor and Bill and Charlie at Barneveld. :clap:

I tried the 690931 muffler today for the Vanguard and it bolts right on! Even the support bracket bolts right in the original support bracket fitting.:mechanic:

I considered drilling holes in the front of the new muffler and attaching the original deflector to the front, but after looking inside the exhaust tip, there appears to be a final "silencer" type baffle that would be bypassed with that approach, so I will install the 495518 deflector.
It looks like it would clear the inside of the hood once closed, but does not look like it will clear the "side shield/ extension "(?) bolted on side of the hood as it swings closed, so I'll probably just remove it.
Will post photos once the final pieces are in place.

With Appreciation and Respect, Willy
 

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Hi Maine Willy,
The heat shield in the hood is very important to keep the hood and headlights from getting hot and melted. I repowered my 1989 4018 with an 18 Vanguard years back and found out the hard way. I removed the hood, made a pattern and cut and fitted a piece of sheetmetal as the shield. On newer production Ingersoll 4021 and 4023 tractors the muffler which is a different design, exhausts out the R/H side. I may have pics and I will look for them. If you go to Small Engine Warehouse repowers, go to Ingersoll and see what they have done with the exhaust system on their Vanguard repowers.
 

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"With Appreciation and Respect, Willy"

Yep and I'm grateful for another look at his heat shield and aux. ground.

Both still on the to do list.

He is a fount!
 

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Here are some pics of late production Wisconsin tractors, a 4018 and a 4021 or 4023. In Aug of 2008 I came close to buying either one of these Ingersolls, but as I already had a 448 and a 4018 so I passed. Ended up coming home with a Scag Tiger Cub ZTR later this day. I really should have bought the 4021 or 4023 with a mower deck! I had already repowered my 4018 in 2007. Ingersoll tractors and 4018 Repower.JPG14JPG.jpg Pics from old hard drive 056.jpg Pics from old hard drive 057.jpg Pics from old hard drive 061.jpg Pics from old hard drive 063.jpg Pics from old hard drive 065.jpg
 

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The 21 and 23 Vanguards have a longer stroke and are taller than 18s so the muffler on them probably won't fit onto an 18. In 2007 I bought what is probably one of the last remaining 18 mufflers. The 4018 and 4021/23 in the above pics were 2004 models so they were new/old stock and 4 years old in 2008 when I looked at them. The dealer would not budge a single penny off his price which I thought was a little high for 4 year old leftovers. I had $12,000 cash in my pocket and had my trailer so I was ready to deal, but it didn't happen. As I look back, you know hind sight is always 20-20, I should have bought both tractors and sold my older Ingersolls. I went to a Ferris dealer as I had a Ferris ZTR in my mind and he was closed and on vacation. So I stopped at my local Scag dealer and later that day came home with a Scag ZTR in my trailer! I now have two ZTRs, end of story for now anyway!:nana::mechanic::wave::geek:
 

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Hi Tim and group,
A few quick tidbits about Vanguards. A 21 is an under-carbureted 23 as is a 14 which is an under-carbureted 16. The 18 is an 18. I have yet to do a Vanguard to Vanguard repower other than one of my Odysseys which I repowered from a 14 to a 16 which was a direct no problem change.
I have repowered several 444s Kohler powered and a 4014 Kohler powered with both 18 and 23 HP Vanguards.
Getting back to your specific situation of repowering a Vanguard powered 4016 with a 23 Vanguard. The 16 Vanguard on your 4016 has a 1" diameter crankshaft and a clutch with the pulley away from the engine. This configuration brings the engine location on the frame closer to the steering tower. Check out the pics of the 4018 in my previous post.
A 23 Vanguard has a 1 1/8" diameter crankshaft and uses a clutch with the pulley close to the engine, check out my pics. This brings the 23 a little more forward on the tractor frame to maintain proper V belt clearance. As the 23 is is about 3/4" to 1" taller than a 16, this brings the air filter housing closer to the underside of the hood but should still clear it.
As the 23 is a slightly longer engine than a 16, it will still connect to the pump flange with no problems. As you already have a Vanguard powered 4016, no frame modifications are necessary other than drilling new engine mount bolt holes which may already have been drilled at the factory. The tractor electrical system will need minimal or no changes to connect to a 23. Control cables may need to be replaced, but I'm not sure.
I have used the repower kits from Small Engine Warehouse as they provide a muffler with a good heat shield in their kits. The stock heat shield in the hood will need to be removed and as the 23 muffler has a R/H exhaust outlet, the hood needs to have a hole cut in it as is found on Onan powered 4000 series tractors.
I highly recommend the Small engine Warehouse 23 repower conversion which comes configured to replace an Onan but is easily reconfigured to replace a Vanguard in a 4000 series tractor. The muffler they use is manufactured by Briggs and they manufacture their own muffler heat shield. As Ingersoll is currently not producing tractors, this muffler has been discontinued by Briggs. SEW may have a connection to Briggs for these mufflers, I don't know. I do know of folks that have bought Vanguards from other sources and called SEW asking for their specialty adaptation parts and were told that the parts were only available in their repower kits and to customers who have previously purchased their repower kits. SEW does not provide electric clutches in their repower kits, so a new different size and rotation clutch will be needed. Our member parts suppliers have these clutches available. As with any modification, do your homework before diving in!:mechanic::gums::geek:
I think that I have covered it all!
 

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Here are some pics of the 690931 muffler installed on a 16 hp Vanguard. Also shows the 495518 deflector. It is currently angled down and back a little to project exhaust toward the open space between the front axle and the deck.
There are also some pics showing the "side shields" removed from the hood as the right shield would not clear the deflector.
I am considering adding a short piece of 1" copper pipe (which is a slide on fit) to extend the exhaust past the edge of the hood with a 45 turnout to project it away from the engine.
Alternatively, I may turn the deflector horizontally toward the front with a 45 that would project the exhaust out the grill.
 

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There are also some pics showing the "side shields" removed from the hood as the right shield would not clear the deflector.
Thinking out loud.... The shields are there to promote proper cooling. Perhaps cutting a chunk out of the shield for clearance on your deflector would be preferable to no shield at all.
 

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Thinking out loud.... The shields are there to promote proper cooling. Perhaps cutting a chunk out of the shield for clearance on your deflector would be preferable to no shield at all.
Thanks for thinking about that - I was wondering about the same thing - I have a later model (post 2000) 4018 Vanguard and it does not have the side shields. It appears it never had them as the bolts on the hood where the side shields would attach have not had the paint removed as they would when a nut goes on, so I think it may have come from the factory that way. I figured if it came that way, it would hopefully be OK for the 4016.

I conjectured (imagined) that maybe the shields were installed on the 4016 (around early 90's) when they transitioned from a larger motor to visually cover a perceived gap in front of the Vanguard - just a guess on my part.

Thought about notching the right sideshield; the way the hood swings back and down, it would be a long notch to accommodate the "radius" of the interference.

The Vanguard airflow pulls from the steering tower and exhausts out the front (as I understand it) so I couldn't picture how the sideshields help with cooling (perhaps to carry the heat out the front of the grill?) and wondered if they were a carryover from a different motor during a time of transition.

Curiously, the 4018 muffler (no shields) is still good after 800 hours where the 4016 (with shields) is gone after 350. That said, they were both used so I do not know how they were taken care of/ stored.

All that said, I took a calculated risk to remove them, but if they need to be reinstalled I can do that. Would be very open to further thoughts and/or others experience re: need for these side shields.

Thanks again for the input, k0jdd,

With Respect, Willy

P. S. one reason it may be worthwhile "discussing" this further is to get a good resolution as this thread may become a reference for others as mufflers go bad and this workaround is used. It seems to me to would be good to get the "right" answer for future reference.

Thanks, Willy
 

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Hi Maine Willy and group,
Note that in the pics that I posted of the last Wisconsin produced 4018 and 4021/4023 the side shields are not installed, just the top shield. If you were to cut out an exhaust outlet in the R/H side of the hood as is on Onan powered 3000 and 4000 series tractors, the exhaust would have an outlet with the new muffler which may be the only option for any that need or will need a new muffler for a Vanguard powered tractor.
 

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Zman, I have a used muffler/exhaust from a 3016 that has the Vanguard 16hp engine that might fit the bill. PM me if interested.
 
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