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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello wise ones of the CCI forum. I am seeking your sage advice that has been so helpful in the past. Yesterday, I was working my 442 scraping a driveway and moving a fresh pile of gravel with the dozer blade when all of a sudden, I lost my hydraulic drive. Currently the tractor will not move forward or backwards in either low or high gear. In thinking through this hydraulic issue I checked and tested the following:
  • I checked the hydraulic oil reservoir, it is topped up to within two inches of the bottom of the neck and there was no change in the oil level after she quit moving.
  • I tested the lift arm and the hydraulic cylinder works, it will raise and lower the dozer blade as intended.
  • The rear hydraulic PTO is functional with oil flowing freely in either direction.
  • I checked the Travel Control Valve and the travel lever that controls direction. The spool that controls travel moves in and out freely.
  • Leaks: There are minor leaks but I has not stopped this tractor for the past few years of nearly weekly work.
The loss of power occurred as I was backing up and then starting to go forward again. I was wearing headphones at the time, but it almost sounded like a spring or like something came disconnected.

Thanks in advance for any insights.
 

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KS442,

My best guess would be a failure of the differential bolts in the two speed transaxle. You may find that you have high range and not low when this happens but I do not recommend operating the tractor as one of the broken bolts is likely to get between the bull gear and the bottom of the transaxle case breaking a hole in it (if it hasn't already). Sound like you have pretty much covered everything else.

Bob
 

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Hello wise ones of the CCI forum. I am seeking your sage advice that has been so helpful in the past. Yesterday, I was working my 442 scraping a driveway and moving a fresh pile of gravel with the dozer blade when all of a sudden, I lost my hydraulic drive. Currently the tractor will not move forward or backwards in either low or high gear. In thinking through this hydraulic issue I checked and tested the following:
  • I checked the hydraulic oil reservoir, it is topped up to within two inches of the bottom of the neck and there was no change in the oil level after she quit moving.
  • I tested the lift arm and the hydraulic cylinder works, it will raise and lower the dozer blade as intended.
  • The rear hydraulic PTO is functional with oil flowing freely in either direction.
  • I checked the Travel Control Valve and the travel lever that controls direction. The spool that controls travel moves in and out freely.
  • Leaks: There are minor leaks but I has not stopped this tractor for the past few years of nearly weekly work.
The loss of power occurred as I was backing up and then starting to go forward again. I was wearing headphones at the time, but it almost sounded like a spring or like something came disconnected.

Thanks in advance for any insights.
Check to make sure the rear end is in gear and did not get bumped into neutral. You might be surprised how often that is the problem.

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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Differential bolts as has been mentioned. Older tractors have a second shaft that is splined onto the output shaft of the drive motor. I recommend that you check the linkages from the travel lever to the travel control valve, check the high/neutral/low range lever to see if it is still connected to the shaft that moves the cluster gear in the transaxle, this is near to the front of the drive motor, also the possibility of the shift fork having fallen off the shaft inside the transaxle. Drain the transaxle in to a pan, check for metal particles, stick a thin magnet into the transaxle drain hole and fish around for metal particles and broken bolts. If there is water in the transaxle, there may be ice damage in the transaxle. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check to make sure the rear end is in gear and did not get bumped into neutral. You might be surprised how often that is the problem.

Cheers,
Gordy
Gordy, Can you explain this a bit further? I can use the gear selection lever to select betweeen low, high or neutral. I can confirm that the shaft going into the trans axle also moves when using the gear selection lever.
 

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Gordy, Can you explain this a bit further? I can use the gear selection lever to select betweeen low, high or neutral. I can confirm that the shaft going into the trans axle also moves when using the gear selection lever.
Sure ;-) In a situation like yours of loosing travel but having power to the lift. Often people have completely forgotten about the H/L selector, and may have hooked it with a boot or pant leg cuff and moved the lever out of position. It happened to me a couple times, and to others also.

So you have made sure the axle is in gear and the tractor still wont move, then you need to start looking into other issues already mentioned.

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Gordy, Bob, & Myers L & G, I appreciate the suggestions thus far.

Looks like I'll be fishing in the trans axle this weekend and I will report back my findings on the magnet. Thanks again.
 

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How about a simple test to confirm?
Raise, jack up rear of tractor. Stick the selector handle, onto the neutral pin. Do the wheels turn?

Stick the selector handle into the low speed notch, Do the wheels turn? If they do, any difference in how hard it is to turn versus in neutral? Note, both wheels should be off the ground for this test. Motor, off.

Visual check, under the rear case, everything looks good there? Everything look intact with the housing?
Even something like this, will show a clue, notice the hairline crack? Oil was not leaking from this housing, but sure as heck, the bolts were sheared inside,,

121473


For reference, inside of case,
121474
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How about a simple test to confirm?
Raise, jack up rear of tractor. Stick the selector handle, onto the neutral pin. Do the wheels turn?

Stick the selector handle into the low speed notch, Do the wheels turn? If they do, any difference in how hard it is to turn versus in neutral? Note, both wheels should be off the ground for this test. Motor, off.

Visual check, under the rear case, everything looks good there? Everything look intact with the housing?
Even something like this, will show a clue, notice the hairline crack? Oil was not leaking from this housing, but sure as heck, the bolts were sheared inside,,

View attachment 121473

For reference, inside of case,
View attachment 121474
Thanks for the details Lionel. I hope to get to your suggestions this weekend and will report back on your recommendations. I'll try to snap a few pictures as well.
 
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