[Bill.H]

I'm replacing all 4 rod ends on my 446. There's no zerk or a place to install one. 9-50392 Manual Steering and Front Axle All Models makes no mention of greasing them. They're dry when new and it's metal to metal contact.

Should I at least try to get some grease under the rubber boots and on the ball with my fingers, or even a spray can? Looks to me like the boot will keep dirt out and I don't like the idea of using them dry.

 

[k0jdd]

I'm replacing all 4 rod ends on my 446. There's no zerk or a place to install one. 9-50392 Manual Steering and Front Axle All Models makes no mention of greasing them. They're dry when new and it's metal to metal contact.

Should I at least try to get some grease under the rubber boots and on the ball with my fingers, or even a spray can? Looks to me like the boot will keep dirt out and I don't like the idea of using them dry.

Ball joints. I replaced mine and never did anything to them. I try to keep them clean (externally) by wiping down after use. :thumbsup:

If you do lube them, won't they just collect dirt and grime? Then you will have metal on metal with an abrasive thrown in for good measure. :think:

 

[Bill.H]

If you do lube them, won't they just collect dirt and grime?

I've thought about that, I think the boot may protect them, but I'm not sure.
Now I'm thinking of just shooting some graphite (dry lube) in there.

 

[bhildret]

Most of the rod ends I encounter appear to be OEM on a 25-30 year old tractor ... while maintenance is a good idea, is 25 years for a $14 part not enough?

Run them dry as is ... IMHO.

Brian

 

[Bob MacGregor]

I have tried several methods of lubing them. I drilled a small hole directly in the top and stopped when I hit the ball and pumped grease into them with a point lube adapter. I have also lubed them under the boot using a hypodermic lube adapter. I have let some run dry. I really didn't notice an increase in life by any method. In fact I think that their life is shorter when lubed unless you lube them daily.
If you want longer ball joint life you need to upgrade to the type that have a ball with a bolt thru the middle of it. There are some available with a lube fitting installed. Several operators have done this and are happy with the reduction in slop in the steering system.
On my commercially operated Ingersolls I had to replace them every 300-400 hours due to wear. The one near the steering gear and right front seem to wear sooner. They can be very tight when new and and increase steering effort.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:

 

[Stewart]

I drilled mine and installed zerks. :thumbsup:

Only time w

 

[Stewart]

I drilled mine and installed zerks. :thumbsup:

Only time w

Only time will tell if it helped :thumbsup:

Brian

Whats the price of a C21526 for my 224-79 ? I believe it was in the $50 range :headscratcher:

BTW It appears I forgot to Preview my last post :headscratcher: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

 

[bhildret]

Brian

Whats the price of a C21526 for my 224-79 ? I believe it was in the $50 range :headscratcher:

Yes ... Case did use the obsolete Male-Male end fittings for a while in the 70's. Probably had a good reason at that time ...

The RH thread male-male C21526 is indeed $55.92 ... haven't been able to locate a suitable sub of the enclosed joint style. Maybe some open/bolted heim joints out there, but I haven't pursued that option.

For about the same price as that obsolete part, we have converted a number of tractors to Male-Female tie rods so they have better future compatibility.

Brian

 

[Bill.H]

Most of the rod ends I encounter appear to be OEM on a 25-30 year old tractor ... while maintenance is a good idea, is 25 years for a $14 part not enough?

Good point. Perhaps I'm worrying for nothing.

I really didn't notice an increase in life by any method.

So no benefit and possible disadvantages to lubing them - that clinches it. Dry it is!

Thanks, guys!

 

[Bob MacGregor]

New stock rod ends are initially stiff and if I recall I did lube them with oil prior to installation. My 4018 is overdue for new ones and I think that I will go with the ball, thru bolt, and grease fitting type from McMaster Carr. I am also going to replace the steering tie rod as it has been straightened out too many times. I think that Ingersoll changed the maunfacturing design on this part with the intro of the 3000-4000 series tractors as I never had a problem with the tie rod on my 1985 448.
When replacing rod ends do a steering system adjustment per the service manual. After the rod ends break in so to speak another steering adjustment may be needed.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:

 

[cp7]

Sounds like another good reason to own a loader. :thumbsup:

http://www.casegardentractorparts.com/c4bajo60se.html

 

[Bill.H]

$70.59 each?!?!? Wow. No thanks, I like the $15 ones :lol:

Are those the Heim style? If so, I hope they come with boots. My 4WD friends tried that style and hated them because they trap sand on top and wear out fast.

 

[mjodrey]

I spray Fluid Film into mine.
I know what they say,if you put grease or oil in them,they will just collect grit are wear out faster.Well I'm going to take that chance,because I'd rather have them lubricated than not.


Stewart,I like your idea of drilling and installing zerks.



Maynard :canada:

 

[Bob MacGregor]

Stewart you must have used press in grease fittings?? The ones that I drilled for lube purposes I use a small point grease adapter and didn't bother with grease fittings.
I want to be able to install tire chains on the front tires for winter so I am looking to get a rod end with the most clearance between the tire and the rod end for chains.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[Stewart]

Stewart you must have used press in grease fittings?? The ones that I drilled for lube purposes I use a small point grease adapter and didn't bother with grease fittings.
I want to be able to install tire chains on the front tires for winter so I am looking to get a rod end with the most clearance between the tire and the rod end for chains.
Mad Mackie in CT

Mad Mac

I drilled and taped with a bottom end tap. The threads were a little loose so I added JB weld when I installed them.

I've used chains on the front tires for 30 years. :trink: I would shorten the cross links enough to get the chains above the tie-rods. On my 224-79 the clearance is not a problem.

I'm gonna give my Sno-Hogs a chance when I get my 224-79 going again. :thumbsup: