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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I spoke with Roy Megli about the clearance issue I discussed in another post and I will grind a small amount off the tips of my blades until there is no interference. Assuming that works as expected Roy will provide another, smaller disc. During our discussion I learned that the blades are a fixed length (actually two different sizes) and the overall diameter is controlled by the size of the disc which they make in 1/8" increments. Since Roy does not have any Case tractors to test the blades on a Case deck it will take a bit of trial and error on our part to get the sizing figured out exactly. While this is not the ideal situation for those who expect a perfect fit out of the box, Roy is very willing to provide (at no charge) whatever it takes to make it right. Once the size is worked out there should be no issues for those who order blades in the future.

During my inspection of the setup it appears that the overlap of the center and side blades is quite small so it's important that the sizes be precise to avoid both interference and an uncut strip between the blades.

All of my testing is with a 48" deck and it is possible that the same issues may arise with the other deck sizes. If you experience a problem with a different deck I urge you to contact Roy immediately so that the issue can be resolved before he ships out additional units.
 

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Bart,
Please make it clear in this thread that your deck is a LETTER deck that is used on the 3 digit tractors. Whether owners with 48" cut RM Series decks for the Ingersoll 4 digit tractors run into this problem remains to be seen. The member on MTF that goes by the screen name slkpk that has the Ingersoll 318, had no problems with his Meg Mo blades but I believe his deck is an RM44.

This may well be the very first set of blades that Roy has made for the 46 Series decks and your tractor is now his R & D unit.

I have every confidence in Roy. You will end up with an excellent set of Meg Mo blades for your application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tom,

You're correct it is a left hand discharge deck though I would expect the sizing to be identical for all the 48" decks. I am not the least disappointed in what I've seen of the blades and Roy has been easy to deal with--we just need to fine tune this.
 

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Bart said:
During our discussion I learned that the blades are a fixed length (actually two different sizes) and the overall diameter is controlled by the size of the disc which they make in 1/8" increments.
Just unwrapped my set for a 48" RM deck, reading your comment above I can`t help but wonder if it would not be easier and result in fewer disc p/n`s to make these small changes by moving the blade mounting hole in or out relative to the disc center. Carrying that idea further, having 3 or 4 SETS of holes at varying distances from the center would perhaps allow the same disc to be used on multiple applications. (?)
I think my first order of business will be to sharpen the knives. Since this is an RM deck there is an additional washer ( with oblong hole) welded to the top of the disk. I believe this is what prompted SLPK to mention that your actual cut will be lower at a given setting. Vertical distance from top of washer to blade edge is approx 11/16ths. Don`t recall the amount of "gullwing" on a stock blade so I may be completely wrong.
Can`t test the MM`s until I correct a p/s leak on my 4020. For now I`m mowing with the 446 which seems to use LESS oil the MORE I run it. Runs great and I enjoy every grass whacking opportunity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
99flhr said:
Just unwrapped my set for a 48" RM deck, reading your comment above I can`t help but wonder if it would not be easier and result in fewer disc p/n`s to make these small changes by moving the blade mounting hole in or out relative to the disc center. Carrying that idea further, having 3 or 4 SETS of holes at varying distances from the center would perhaps allow the same disc to be used on multiple applications. (?)
I didn't get into a discussion of how he manufactures the product but I'm pretty sure he purchases the blades in quantity and attaches them to the appropriate sized disc. He did mention that he makes them up to order which suggests that he makes the discs as needed. If he has a computer controlled plasma cutter this would be a quick and easy task and he could make them to the specific size required without maintaining an inventory of different sizes. It would be difficult to position holes in 1/16" increments to make the 1/8" adjustments he can with the disc size. There may also be liability concern if someone assembled the blades in the wrong holes and something broke I'm sure the lawyers would have a field day.
 

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I ordered a set for the RM44 deck. Roy sent mine with a welded-on washer. Unfortunately, the washer opening was sized at 3/4" x 1-1/4" rather than 7/8" x 1-1/4". Roy's advice was to grind off the welds and remove the washers, which I did (I noted a couple of the welds lacked good penetration, BTW). In my situation, the large disk is mounted directly to the spindle mount. So the implication is that these blades, as mounted on my deck, will be cutting about 3/16" - 1/4" higher than the stock blades. The member SLKPK over at MTF that reviewed these blades on an RM44 deck has his mounted the same way as mine and reports good performance after a season of use. I did not have any interference issues with these blades out of the box (other than the center washer). I felt that they needed to be sharpened prior to use.

The grass here has not grown enough yet to warrant cutting, so I can't report on performance. After I mounted them, I did a few dry runs in the yard. The extra mass of the blades puts a larger load on the engine to get them spinning, compared to the standard blades. By my eye, these blades do produce more air flow out of the discharge. Checking the mower deck for proper front to back adjustment by measuring to the blades is awkward, due to their swing and droop.

By the way, I noticed small blades like Meg-Mo uses at Tractor Supply. They also carry similar mounting bolts. The various blades I saw didn't have the same amount of lift on the trailing edge. I didn't check what the application might actually be for.

Paul
 

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Bart said:
During my inspection of the setup it appears that the overlap of the center and side blades is quite small so it's important that the sizes be precise to avoid both interference and an uncut strip between the blades.
Now I`m concerned, parts list shows blade # C37312 for RM 48 deck to be 17" The MM`s are 16-5/8ths. :think:
I`ll have to check the spares when I get home
 

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ing3018 said:
Checking the mower deck for proper front to back adjustment by measuring to the blades is awkward, due to their swing and droop.
Do not take your measurements off the blade tips. Instead work off of the top of deck to the dead flat concrete area the tractor is sitting on by laying a level across it.

If the deck itself is not twisted or bent in any way, then the spindle is a dead 90 degrees to the deck shell and the blades are on the exact same plane as the deck shell. So as long as you can find spots on the deck shell that are flat, you can lay an ordinary 4 ft level across those level spots on the front and rear of the deck and make your adjustments. If that means shimming up the level with pieces of structural steel right where those two spots on the deck are, then do so. It doesn't matter how high the level sits off the top of the deck as long as the shims are lifting it equally front and rear. Then all that matters is the difference between the front and rear distances between the level and the surface the tractor/deck is sitting on.
 

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Now I`m concerned, parts list shows blade # C37312 for RM 48 deck to be 17" The MM`s are 16-5/8ths. :think:
I`ll have to check the spares when I get home[/quote]

The USED standard, mulching, and Gator blades that I have for RM-48 all measure 16-7/8ths.
Hoping the decreased overlap won`t be an issue. Can`t measure the spindle spacing till the wkend.
 

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Do not take your measurements off the blade tips. Instead work off of the top of deck to the dead flat concrete area the tractor is sitting on by laying a level across it. [/quote said:
Yes. That's what I ended up doing to get the deck adjusted as prescribed in the manual. I had wanted to measure the cutting height from the pavement to the bottom of the blades, as I just put new deck wheels on also.

The cool weather of late has stunted my lawn's growth. Perhaps I'll get to test these blades out by the weekend.
 

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I just received my Meg Mo blades today and will be taking them into work tomorrow to paint the center disc. I also need to buy mounting bolts. I also received 12 custom made washers that I may swap out for a single spacer. I guess Roy wants us to use 2 between each disc and spindle.




 

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Well I figured I would try and test fit my blades tonight and see how they worked so I could get my grass cut this weekend.I had a couple interference issues withthe blades and one section of the deck and I resolved it after I removed a piece of metal that was in the way (see picture). Once that was done I spun the deck by hand and didnt notice anything else getting in the way so I mounted the deck and gave it shot. I slowly engaged the clutch and bang bang bang!!!!! Something else was obviously getting in the way of the blades. I raised the front of the tractor and looked under the deck while I slowly engaged the clutch again and thats when I noticed that the blades from one disc are hitting the blades from another. Im already kind of mad because I had to take a grinder to a freshly restored deck and now I have to remove the entire deck from the tractor and disassemble the blades and grind them down. I will be emailing Roy and letting him know how I made out. I think he is going to have to reduce the diameter of the disc by 1/8".







 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
CASE 220/4 said:
Well I figured I would try and test fit my blades tonight and see how they worked so I could get my grass cut this weekend.I had a couple interference issues withthe blades and one section of the deck and I resolved it after I removed a piece of metal that was in the way (see picture). Once that was done I spun the deck by hand and didnt notice anything else getting in the way so I mounted the deck and gave it shot. I slowly engaged the clutch and bang bang bang!!!!! Something else was obviously getting in the way of the blades. I raised the front of the tractor and looked under the deck while I slowly engaged the clutch again and thats when I noticed that the blades from one disc are hitting the blades from another. Im already kind of mad because I had to take a grinder to a freshly restored deck and now I have to remove the entire deck from the tractor and disassemble the blades and grind them down. I will be emailing Roy and letting him know how I made out. I think he is going to have to reduce the diameter of the disc by 1/8"
Sounds like your experience parallels mine. Check to see if the center blades are hitting both side blades and make sure the side blades aren't contacting the deck housing baffles anywhere when spinning. As long as the side blades are clearing the housing then you should be able to grind down the center blades a bit to solve the problem short term--that's my plan though I haven't gotten to it yet. I suggest marking the blade tips so that you can keep track of exactly the amount you need to remove from the tips to solve the problem--hopefully no more than 1/8". Once you know for certain the amount you need reduced Roy will send you a new disc of the correct size along with new blades.

I know it's a pain to have to do this but we're dealing with essentially a new product for our decks and need to help him fine tune it since he doesn't have the decks to do the testing himself.
 

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Brad,

Take one of the blade units off the spindle. Clamp a straight edge across the center plate with the two blades tight against the straight edge and also clamped into position. What's the total length from blade tip to blade tip? How does that compare to the length of the stock blade? It sure looks to me that 1/8" smaller isn't going to do the trick.
 

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Tom, I will see if I can get to that today. Weather permitting.

Bart, the blades no longer hit the housing on the deck. The center blades just hit the outer blades so instead of pulling all of them off I will will just pull the center blade assembly and modify it.

Update: Roy just emailed me and told me to send all the blades back so he can remake them.


I told him I will modify it here and get back to him. Its better then him guess at it w/o being able to test it. I need my grass cut this weekend
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hydriv said:
Brad,

Take one of the blade units off the spindle. Clamp a straight edge across the center plate with the two blades tight against the straight edge and also clamped into position. What's the total length from blade tip to blade tip? How does that compare to the length of the stock blade? It sure looks to me that 1/8" smaller isn't going to do the trick.
If you measure the tip to length of the blades when pointed straight out you don't measure the maximum clearance required because the blades swivel. Since the ends of the blades are square they require slightly more clearance when angled than when straight.
 

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True enough. All I was aiming for was a comparison of the length of the Meg-Mo to the OEM blades.


I wonder just how much of an overlap was designed into the decks. I suppose that the easiest way to figure that out would be to add up the true length of all 3 OEM blades and then subtract the width of cut from that figure before dividing the remainder by two. If the overlap is more than one inch, then there is quite a bit of margin for reducing the diameter of the Meg -Mo discs. A Series 44 or 45 deck should have the exact same Meg-Mo blade on each spindle.

Brad, I think that it is a mistake for you to alter the blades. Sorry that this has happened but Roy requested that you return what he sent. If you use the blades and/or modify them, then they are junk as far as Roy is concerned. He is not able to salvage anything of value. Roy will definitely make good on this transaction but you need to work with him by respecting what he asks of you. If you have an old set of blades around, sharpen those and go cut your grass. Even if you have only two blades left, put those on and make narrower passes to get your lawn under control.
 

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I just took the center disc off and the blades measure 15 3/4" when straight. If I angle them a few degrees in opposite directions then I get a measurement of 16"!!!! The blades on the LH disc and center disc are gouged about a 1/4" in on the cutting edge. That is a LOT of material to remove from the blades to get them to work. The blades on the RH disc are perfect and have no signs of making contact with anything which is weird.

Just for shits and giggles I went and measured the OEM blades that have been on my tractor since new and they measure 15 3/8" . I am not going to mess with these Meg Mo blades right now. The stock blades are going back on after I sharpen them and I will figure out what I want to do after.
 

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Hydriv said:
Brad, I think that it is a mistake for you to alter the blades. Sorry that this has happened but Roy requested that you return what he sent. If you use the blades and/or modify them, then they are junk as far as Roy is concerned. He is not able to salvage anything of value. Roy will definitely make good on this transaction but you need to work with him by respecting what he asks of you. If you have an old set of blades around, sharpen those and go cut your grass. Even if you have only two blades left, put those on and make narrower passes to get your lawn under control.
Tom, that is my plan now. Modifying Roys blades is going to be a little more involved then I thought (time wise) so I am just going to get my grass cut and figure this all out after. Its frustrating for those of us who have these issues and I know its frustrating for Roy is basically trying to design a working setup w/o even being able to test it first hand.
 
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