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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm trying to get my EZ-Adjust PTO Clutch working. I was missing the clutch fork and rod from the control arm.

It had seemed like without the arm, the clutch was engaged, and I tried mowing with it as is, and taking the belt off with the mower when I didn't want to mow. But it never seemed to work well. Anytime I hit any grass of consequence, something would slip and the mower blades would spin lamely. No matter how I tried to tighten the belt tension, it would still slip when mowing any amount of grass.

So, after taking my clutch apart, it also seems like I'm missing some 0.100" spacer washers (Part #24, C26346). I have all the spring washers and thin washers next to them, but I don't have the washer between the clutch cam bearings. I'm not really sure why it's necessary. The two bearings move together and apart as you move the clutch fork, and the two clutch bearings stick out between them, so what does this spacer/washer do?

I also have the thick washer before the clutch pulley bearing. I found that with that in there, I couldn't push the clutch closed to make it grip. This seems wrong, so I took it out. Is this the right thing to do? I can put this washer between the clutch fork bearings.

What do you think? And how the heck do you get the cotter pin in the end of the control arm/rod??? There's NO way to reach it!

Thanks in Advance, Jim
 

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Hi Jim, What manual are you using? The reference numbers (like 24) aren't the same in all of them.

None of the manuals I've seen show any spacer washers between the clutch cam bearings.

The thickness of the spacer washer(s) that go in front of the clutch pulley vary depending on the pulley. I don't know if the "Timely Tips" are still available in the tech library after the site changes or not, but if you can find issue #97 (dated March 29, 1982) it covers the pulley spacer change.... There was an early design pulley that had an offset bearing position and used a 0.200" (or 3 or 4 0.050") spacer washers between it and the cam. The later design pulley has the bearing centered under the pulley groove. That one uses a 0.100" spacer (or two 0.050" spacers) on each side of the pulley bearing.
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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I tried to post the Timely Tips Chapter 13 which has the 3/29/82 #97 in it. It gave a uploaded file to large for server to process. So I took a pic with my phone of the #97 bulletin, you will see it posted as img_1865.jpg.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Jim, What manual are you using? The reference numbers (like 24) aren't the same in all of them.

None of the manuals I've seen show any spacer washers between the clutch cam bearings.

The thickness of the spacer washer(s) that go in front of the clutch pulley vary depending on the pulley. I don't know if the "Timely Tips" are still available in the tech library after the site changes or not, but if you can find issue #97 (dated March 29, 1982) it covers the pulley spacer change.... There was an early design pulley that had an offset bearing position and used a 0.200" (or 3 or 4 0.050") spacer washers between it and the cam. The later design pulley has the bearing centered under the pulley groove. That one uses a 0.100" spacer (or two 0.050" spacers) on each side of the pulley bearing.
You are correct. I read the diagram wrong, and fixed moved the washer to between the pulley bearing and the first fork bearing. My PIN/Serial # is 14094912. I am using Manual Attachment Drive Clutch E-Z Adust Type Service Manual 9-51081.

I took the fat spacing washer before the pulley out because the clutch would not engage (by hand) with it in there.

Now I'm trying to adjust the cutch with the Adjusting Nut. But the adjustment changes a lot when you thighten the Fan Nut.

Is this spacing washer (#24 C26346) something likely to be available at NAPA? It's getting to the point that unless they have an automotive year, maker, model, serial number to look up, they can't find anything. You can't bring a random washer in , and say, 'I want one like this'.


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Hi Jim, Based on your PIN, yours should be new enough to have the pulley that has the centered bearing (and uses a 0.100" spacer on each side). But unless you know the complete history of your tractor, a previous owner could have changed parts so check the style of pulley to be sure.

These clutches can be a little tricky to assemble & adjust until you've done it a time or two to get familiar with the procedure. When putting it together, you have to leave the guide sticking out of the adjustment nut far enough to hold the rear spring and be careful that the springs don't drop off of the guide or the stepped groove in the fan spacer. Then when making the adjustment, you need to turn both the clutch nut and the fan nut in together until you get the desired 0.002" to 0.007" gap between the clutch disc and plate. Hold the adjustment nut still while you tighten the fan nut. It's usually necessary to hold the engine from turning as well when you're tightening up the fan nut. Using this procedure, you shouldn't have much change in the gap when tightening the fan nut.

I've never checked, but I doubt the spacer washers would be available at NAPA or other auto parts stores. They're kind of a specialty item since they need to be a specific ID and thickness. Case/Ingersoll dealers most likely have them in stock and can mail some to you quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My clutch keeps slipping. The clutch pad seems pretty thick, about 4 mm, but the surface seems pretty smooth. Is there some way I can roughen up the surface? When I tighten the clutch adjustment, it works for about 30 seconds on mowing, but then stops working. Then I looked at the clutch again, there was in obvious gap between the clutch pulley and plate that wasn't there before, and that I couldn't close.

It seems like there is a limit to how tight is clutch will adjust, because there is a limit to how far you can adjust the adjustment nuts right up until you run out of threads on the end of the shaft, where the shaft becomes 1-1/8" or so thick.
I'm trying to figure out if adding or subtracting a washer will allow me to tighten it further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't seem to have a Grass Screen (#21 C28758? The number is obscured by the watermark).
My Clutch Plate (#3 C15718) Does not have countersunk bolts. It has round-head Allen bolts.
Does that matter? There is room on the side of the Clutch pulley for the round-head bolts, I think.
 

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The surface of the friction disk might be glazed from slipping ... giving it a light scuffing with some sandpaper wouldn't hurt.

However, it sounds like you're still having some adjustment issues that's causing it to slip due to the gap being too large. You shouldn't have to add or subtract any additional spacers (beyond the original number/thickness) in order to achieve full adjustment.

When you had it apart, how did the surface of the center shaft look? It should be smooth & even. Some minor wear is acceptable, but worn grooves or ridges can present a problem. The bearings inside the pulley & cams have to slide back & forth along the shaft a little bit as the clutch is engaged / disengaged. If there are worn grooves or ridges large enough to catch the bearings and prevent them from moving as needed, that can make it difficult / impossible to get a good adjustment and prevent the clutch from fully engaging.

Is this on an Onan or Kohler engine? On an Onan, I don't think the missing grass screen would be an issue because the whole clutch assembly stacks on top of it. But on a Kohler where the screen is sandwiched between part of the hub and the clutch plate, it would move the plate back closer to the engine the thickness of the screen. And that could potentially be enough to make a difference and cause you to run out of adjustment room. As for the bolts, can you see any evidence (rub/wear marks) where they have been making contact with the pulley?
 

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I don't seem to have a Grass Screen (#21 C28758? The number is obscured by the watermark).
My Clutch Plate (#3 C15718) Does not have countersunk bolts. It has round-head Allen bolts.
Does that matter? There is room on the side of the Clutch pulley for the round-head bolts, I think.
Jim,

The fact that your clutch plate is mounted with round head allen bolts indicates that it is a later production clutch or the complete clutch has been replace. If you would like for me to call you and give you an exact explanation of what thickness shims are needed and where they should be located I will be happy to. Just PM me with your contact information or I guess I can probably get it from one of your orders.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jim,

The fact that your clutch plate is mounted with round head allen bolts indicates that it is a later production clutch or the complete clutch has been replace. If you would like for me to call you and give you an exact explanation of what thickness shims are needed and where they should be located I will be happy to. Just PM me with your contact information or I guess I can probably get it from one of your orders.

Bob
Thanks Bob, When I get to that point, I'll give you a call. I'm going to order a new set of spacers, and the grass screen, and go from there.

I suppose the grass screen might make a difference. I sanded the surface of the clutch pad with a grinder flap disk, and I put the clutch back together and cranked together tight. Then I was able to mow without the clutch slipping, so yes, the clutch (and mower) CAN work.

The spacing of the clutch parts is weird. I'll see if I can explain why I'm puzzled. It's mostly about the spacing at the end of the 1.25" shaft, where it turns into a threaded bolt. The way it's working out for me, the washer/space #19, has just enough room to stay on the end of the shaft, but the adjusting nut #14, runs up the bolt right to the end of the shaft, so it's not exerting any force to tighten the clutch. It's also not really holding the spacer on the shaft, because the nut's OD is smaller then the Spacers ID. But when you put the Adjusting Nut Guide #18, over the Adjusting Nut, it will hold the spacer in. But then, when you put the concave washers on (#12 Clutch load spring) , the Adjusting Nut does not stick out enough to hold the center of the concave washer. Then there is the Hub Spacer #13, the Fan, Fan Washer and nut.

So the way the parts space out, it doesn't seem to keep the parts aligned together. What I ended up doing is not running the Adjusting Nut all the way in, so it sticks out enough to hold the center of the Clutch load spring #12, then put the Adjusting Nut Guide #18 over the Adjusting Nut #14, to hold the Spacer #19 on the end of the shaft, then put the rest of the parts on the bolt shaft normally. Then when I tighten the Fan Nut, it pushes the adjusting nut and guide along, without having to tighten the AN&G separately. This locked the clutch closed, and it held while I mowed.

I'm sure this is old hat, and you're going, 'Duh, Of Course', but it's all new to me. I hope walking through this helps someone else in the future.
 

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Jim,

I would like to call you when you have time to disassemble the clutch so that I can walk you through the reassembly and adjustment procedure from start to finish. While the grass screen should have no effect on the adjustment or correct operation of the clutch, it is necessary to keep grass and debris from collecting on the cooling fins. Let me know when you are ready by PM here, phone message at 815-286-3920 or by email. [email protected]

Bob
 

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Late to this party ;) I had a clutch needing frequent adjustments. Finally figured it out when the bearing in the first cam blew out :eek: It was a large PITA to get apart as the inner race had heat seized to the shaft :mad:

Remember these cam bearings are side loaded when the clutch is engaged, and are turning all the time the engine is running. The bearing in the pulley gets a break from spinning when the clutch is engaged, it is side loaded but not spinning.

My recommendation is to consider the bearings a "wear item" and replace them when you have the clutch apart as preventive maintenance. Or at the very least give them a thorough inspection any roughness and any play means they are on their way out and should be replaced.

Cheers,
Gordy
 
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