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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I got the overheating to quit (badly worn throttle shaft) after that I pulled the motor to replace the oil pan. I replaced the pan put new straight 30w oil in it, repaired the gaskets for the valve breather with rtv and put in new motor mounts, that was it. I got everything assembled started it and drove around for about a hour and put it back in the barn. Two days later I start it and it smokes so bad I could not see to get out of the barn, I quickly shut the tractor off and quickly got to fresh air, them waited for the white smoke to clear. I rolled the tractor outside started it again and it was the same loads of smoke, I started to drive it around and it got better but a solid flow of smoke still come out non stop, why would it start to do this overnight?
 

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Is it possible that you installed the reed valve in backwards so that the engine is pulling in air instead of exhausting crankcase pressure? It sounds like you have excess crankcase pressure causing oil to be pushed past the rings. If you are smoking that bad it won't be long before you are out of oil and have engine failure!
Chip
 

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:goodpost:

I agree. When something like that happens right after you perform certain work, then what you did is immediately suspect and you have to check over what you did to see if you made a mistake. This is why we have the Tech Library here. The Kohler service manuals are in the SERVICE MANUALS section under ENGINES. I suggest that you review those manuals and then examine the breather. Please feel free to report any mistakes you made because it will help educate other members on what not to do. :sidelaugh: :thumbsup:
 

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If it were water cooled, I'd say blown head gasket,cracked head,or cracked block being that it is white smoke. Water and anti-freeze are the only things I have seen to cause white smoke from exhaust.
 

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Blue smoke usually indicates the burning of an oily substance. That could be motor oil from the crankcase or it could be an oily product that is mixed with the gasoline.

I am not arguing with you in any way. What I am saying here is that there are many ways that fuel mix-ups can occur. People can mistakenly put diesel fuel into tanks where gasoline is supposed to go. People can mistakenly put pre-mix (2-stroke) gasoline into fuel tanks meant to have straight gas in them.

You have a very unusual problem and sometimes you have to go to the extreme to diagnose the problem. Diagnosis is a process of elimination of all possibilities to narrow down the list to the true problem. Using a turkey baster to suck your fuel tank dry and flushing out the fuel line, filter, fuel pump and carb bowl with fresh gasoline that you know is 100 percent pure gas just might be a good idea, if only to eliminate the fuel as being the cause. Go to the Dollar Store and buy a baster for a buck. On your way back, fill a clean, red gasoline container with fresh fuel. See if this makes any difference at all.

Did we talk about draining the engine crankcase and then putting in fresh #30 weight oil in an amount that is called for in your correct Op Manual? That's another possibility that needs to be eliminated. We are trying to help you here but in all honesty.... this is a weird one.
 

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The piston fail from all the lean burning from throttle shaft allowing to much air ( oxygen in engine ) aluminum melts at 1100 degrees it broke through at startup next day.
Pull piston you see failure. It could be small part piston melted and stuck rings but more likely look as worm eat down side piston.
 

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I think there's quite a few thing that could be checked before assuming a rebuild. :thumbsup:

I'd start with proper oil level and grade. Measure the oil going in and don't rely on the dipstick.

Compression test and of course there's the required Leak-Down. :trink:

Let us know how they work out.
 

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Compression gauges are not leakdown testers. Two different tools.

If you did not go to the Tech Library/Service Manuals/Engines and read the Kohler book on how to do a compression test, then shame on you. :sidelaugh:

These engines are fitted with ACR for easy starting. ACR is Automatic Compression Release that holds the exhaust valve open slightly until the engine RPM reaches a certain point and then the ACR drops out. This allows the starter motor a much easier time in spinning the engine over from a dead stop. However, when taking a compression test, you will often get a false reading.

Go directly to Jail. Do not pass GO. Do not collect $200.00.


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I can't believe it I just figured out what is wrong with my 444 :lol: I pulled the head and the piston rocks back and forth :shock: and there is some scoring on the cylinder wall, so it looks like it is time for a rebuild. I am looking at the stens kits on eBay, and they seem reasonably priced, has anybody had any experience with these pros cons? When I rebuild the engine I run into the problem of having no way to work it to help break it in, the only thing I can do is put som weights on an old bumper pull disk I have and disk some corn stalks when the time comes, what should I do here? My 444 is really starting to feel :wife:
 

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Stens kits are perfectly fine.

If you are capable of dismantling the engine yourself, then do it. Take the bare block, head, camshaft, crankshaft and all valve parts to a machine shop. They will check all those parts for wear. Have them bore the block and turn the crank journal. Once those things are done, you will know which oversize piston and undersize rod you need from the Stens supplier.

If you are not comfortable with dismantling the entire engine, then just remove the motor from the tractor and take it to a competent shop that is familiar with rebuilding Kohlers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have tow completely dismantled parts engines, so disassembly isnt a problem, and will do all of the reassembly also. There is a machine shop about 2 mi urea from my house, so that will be convenient, I have already took both of my parts engines to them to have them inspected and they seem very knowligaable on these engines. Thanks for the info on the stens kits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just got back from the machine shop, $55 to bore .010 over $35 to turn crank and $25 to cut valve seats. He said the crank had less than a thousadth of wear so that is good but the block needs to be bored over .010. Where is a good place to get the stens kits, I have been looking at the ones on eBay for 80-100$ , are there any other places to buy them? Sorry for all of the misspells in my last post, I was on my iPod and in a hurray :sidelaugh:
 
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