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Be more specific as to the model of your machine and Onan engine and we can take it from there.
There are many factors regarding "power" with hydraulic drive tractors, the engine being part of the power equation.
Bob MacGregor in CT
 

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Welcome to the group.

I moved your thread to the main forum because I do not see it as being strictly an engine issue but you are welcome to correct me.


Let's start by you telling us the model and serial number of your tractor so that we are all on the same page here.

The Onan engine provides rotary power to the tractor two ways. On the front of the engine is a PTO that belt drives the mower deck or a snowblower. The back of the engine powers a hydraulic pump to move the tractor forward and backward at various ground speeds. It can also power a hydraulic PTO mounted at the rear of the tractor. Where do you feel that you do not have enough power?

Which attachments do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have just started on this so I don't know if the points are cleaned and spaced right but will do that this weekend. I want more pulling power out of it for hauling wood and pushing for pushing snow. The Model Number is B43M-Ga016/4183C and the Serial number is H863127821. It is an 86 by looking at the serial number and it is a 226. And as far as the turbo goes I looked into that but dont want to fry my engine :lol: :lol:
 

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You're the first guy I can recall who has expressed any interest in more pulling power from these tractors--I have NEVER been able to stall the wheels in low range even with ag tires and heavy wheel weights. If you were able to stall the wheels then the hydraulic relief valve would open before the engine stalled so having a bigger engine will have no impact on your pulling performance. The extra hp available from larger engines is only of value in powering the larger mower decks and snowblowers that take power from the front PTO.
 

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Now that we know what you are looking for, we can answer your question a lot better.

These tractors are hydraulically driven. Once you have 14 HP under the hood to power the hydraulics, more HP won't provide any more pulling power. The OEM hydraulic system is designed to deliver some where between 12 and 14 HP to the trans-axle. You could drop a big block 504 crate engine into your tractor with 600 brake HP and there would be no improvement.

My suggestions will be echoed by others

- de-carbonize the cylinders, valves and heads.

- set the valve lash

- install new points, condenser, plugs and plug wires.

- install a new fuel filter.

- replace the fuel line if it is hardened.

- install a brass float in the carb if it does not have one.

- set the timing

- clean the carb's float bowl

- run some Sea Foam through the fuel system

- check the compression on both cylinders

- if it is below 90 PSI, do a leak-down test

- make sure the fuel tank is clean inside and get rid of the screen in that tank.


- go to the FAQ's section here at the site and read about which oil to use in the hydraulic system and how to change it.

When you have all of that done, you could buy a test gauge and check the ability of your pump to make pressure.
 

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20 years ago, the 155 you see in my profile pic was used to pull full wagon loads of nearly 150 bales of alfalfa out of the field up a rather steep grade. That’s with a 10hp motor. As long as I could keep solid traction, I could do it at about 25% throttle.
As was stated above, I think you’ll find the hydraulic drive in these tractors more than sufficient for most any pulling or pushing you would feel safe doing in a tractor of that weight.
 

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Phaon said:
20 years ago, the 155 you see in my profile pic was used to pull full wagon loads of nearly 150 bales of alfalfa out of the field up a rather steep grade. That's with a 10hp motor. As long as I could keep solid traction, I could do it at about 25% throttle.
As was stated above, I think you'll find the hydraulic drive in these tractors more than sufficient for most any pulling or pushing you would feel safe doing in a tractor of that weight.
:+1: And unlike many other makes, a Case/ Ingersoll (w/holding valve or exp operator) will also be able to stop/slow a heavy trailer. There are plenty of old line tractors that will pull a load that they are completely unable to control downhill. JMO
 

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Great. I just ordered some tires for it so i could get more traction. I appreciate your posts. :thumbsup:
Presumably, the tires you ordered are AG tires with an R1 tread. I would suggest that you find a local RimGuard dealer and have those tires loaded with beet juice. You will not be sorry you did. The tractor will feel and perform much better.
 
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