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Been working off and on for a while now, engine is essentially fully rebuilt. Working on getting the oil pan welded up and sealed/painted then I should be good to start it up in the next week or two so fingers crossed on that. Motor turns over by hand easy enough so there's hope! I have some fun wiring to do then it'll be ready for the swap. It took me forever to figure out how to time the dang thing since there's literally ZERO reference to a timing procedure or anything related to timing in the workshop manual. Turns out I'm blind and didn't see the little timing marks on the timing gears so that was a serious "DUH" moment.

I started tearing down the pump and TCV for the 444, the travel spool was stuck and the valve just needs a general cleaning and probably new seals at the very least, same with the pump. After I verify the motor runs, I'll build a carriage for it or buy a cherry picker and then start mocking it up and cutting the frame to get the motor mounted in! Super excited for the next phase here. Let me know what you all think and I'm open to any ideas on what else I can do with it!

 

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I also forgot to put in there that when I took the exhaust manifold off it just disintegrated but fortunately I was able to weld it back up. It doesn't look pretty but it beats having to fab one from scratch or spend the $100+ on a new one! I beat on it a bit with a mallet to see if it's just beyond saving after I welded it but the thing is solid. Must have cracked a long time ago and was just help together by the rust and bolts/studs on the head.
 

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Been working off and on for a while now, engine is essentially fully rebuilt. Working on getting the oil pan welded up and sealed/painted then I should be good to start it up in the next week or two so fingers crossed on that. Motor turns over by hand easy enough so there's hope! I have some fun wiring to do then it'll be ready for the swap. It took me forever to figure out how to time the dang thing since there's literally ZERO reference to a timing procedure or anything related to timing in the workshop manual. Turns out I'm blind and didn't see the little timing marks on the timing gears so that was a serious "DUH" moment.

I started tearing down the pump and TCV for the 444, the travel spool was stuck and the valve just needs a general cleaning and probably new seals at the very least, same with the pump. After I verify the motor runs, I'll build a carriage for it or buy a cherry picker and then start mocking it up and cutting the frame to get the motor mounted in! Super excited for the next phase here. Let me know what you all think and I'm open to any ideas on what else I can do with it!

Every time I've seen any potential bargain on a small two or three cylinder Kubota diesel, I've had this precise thought.

I'm presuming you'll have to lengthen the frame some, right? To make room for the engine itself and a fan and a radiator.

My input on that, such as it is, is to relocate your oil cooler to the bottom left side of the tower the same way that they did on the later 4000 series tractors. And while you're at it, track down a 4000 series hydraulic tank that snuggles up inside the tower. That way you're not having all those things taking up space out in front of your engine.

One of the things I could never really decide on was how to connect the PTO to the deck. Will you be able to mount an electric PTO clutch to your crankshaft pulley? If so, your belt to the deck would be more or less a stock approach. Just electrically actuated.

All things told I'm guessing you'll have to add 12 or 14 in in length?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Every time I've seen any potential bargain on a small two or three cylinder Kubota diesel, I've had this precise thought.

I'm presuming you'll have to lengthen the frame some, right? To make room for the engine itself and a fan and a radiator.

My input on that, such as it is, is to relocate your oil cooler to the bottom left side of the tower the same way that they did on the later 4000 series tractors. And while you're at it, track down a 4000 series hydraulic tank that snuggles up inside the tower. That way you're not having all those things taking up space out in front of your engine.

One of the things I could never really decide on was how to connect the PTO to the deck. Will you be able to mount an electric PTO clutch to your crankshaft pulley? If so, your belt to the deck would be more or less a stock approach. Just electrically actuated.

All things told I'm guessing you'll have to add 12 or 14 in in length?
At a minimum I'll be adding around 8 to 10 inches. Although I will probably add more like what you're saying just to have wiggle room. This model I have already has the plastic tank that sits inside the tower and the cooler I may mount where it pulls air through the top of the hood right in front of the tower, since the only thing back in that area would be the pump. As for the PTO I don't plan on running this with a mower deck or a snow blower so I won't need a belt driven PTO like stock. I will work on converting a mower deck over to hydraulic possibly and power it with the PTO valve I'll have for the tiller and such. I'll have to do more research and design on the speed needed for the mowing deck and the hydro flow to power it. Either way I already have a new riding mower so I don't need this to mow grass currently although it would be nice at some point to make it work and get rid of the mower.

Funny enough this Kubota diesel block is almost the exact same width as the outside of the stock frame rails so it won't be too difficult to add in some frame length and attach it. With the oil pan I have it will sit nice and safe within the frame rails and not stick down below except for maybe the drain plug. I'll be able to actually get some measurements down and steel formed to fabricate the frame addition once I know the motor runs and I can start mocking it up. I'll probably post pics and info when I get to that point.
 
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