[saintstephen]

Interesting phenomenon this winter. After around 15 minutes of work, the motor wants to die unless knocked down to minimum throttle. It recovers and can fully work after resting at idle for a bit. I can't have vapor lock below freezing???? It's workable anyhow, but curious about what the experts think.

thks

ssf

 

[GoldenCove]

Possibly the fuel line is sucking air? It happen to my 446 and I had tor replace the fuel line, very simple job and inexpensive as well. :thumbsup:

 

[robynrj]

carb icing? gas today with e10 likes to absorb water. did not see model of tractor or engine Bob M

 

[ING6018]

Maybe gas cap is not venting properly, creating a vacuum under load.

 

[mastifflawyer]

SeaFoam it and see if that makes a difference...

All the other suggestions are good as well.

 

[Hydriv]

Any chance that you are sucking snow into the air cleaner? That light blowy powder can choke up a filter and starve the engine for air, literally choking it to death. Believe it or not, most of the Tec powered walk behind snow blowers do not run an air filter element of any kind but they shroud the air intake with tin that gets warm from the exhaust to melt the snow in the air.

Something to think about and check.

 

[saintstephen]

All good inputs. Afraid that the Steeler/Raven game is occupying my time right now. will explore my issue tomorrow morning before football begins again.

thx

 

[Bill.H]

Possibly the fuel line is sucking air? It happen to my 446 and I had tor replace the fuel line, very simple job and inexpensive as well. :thumbsup:

I'm about to do that just because I am not comfortable with the condition of the existing line - it's very hard and I'm afraid of it cracking. What's the easiest way to get to the under-tank connection? At a quick look it seems as if I'll have to disassemble everything around the tank and pull it.

 

[GoldenCove]

Bill,

You have to pull the gas tank off. It is really not that hard. A few fender bolts anf the rear seat panel bolts anf the tank will slip right out. You will have no trouble at all. :thumbsup:

 

[Bill.H]

Ahhh so it slips out the back. I couldn't tell from the diagram, thanks.
That means I'll be able to treat it as a simple task and do it now. If I'd had to take everything apart it would have waited till spring when I inspect the differential - if the old line lasted that long - that'll be a "project", not just a "task".

 

[Hydriv]

I'm not sure that "slips out the back " is an apt description.

You will have to remove the seat and hinge plate, tool box, both fenders and the rear panel. The front panel can be left to dangle.

You then remove the two tank bands that secure it. You then have to remove the fuel hose from the pump, trace it back to the tank and remove any devices that hold it to other objects. Then the tank can be lifted and the old line pulled with it.

You should check to see if there is a mesh filter screen that is part and parcel with the outlet fitting and if so...... destroy it totally. Use a plastic in-line filter in its place.

Stay with the spring clamp used on the old line. Resist the urge to use a gear clamp. Install a new hose on the tank and reverse the procedure.

 

[GoldenCove]

:goodpost:

I guess I gave you the cliff notes version :sidelaugh:

 

[Hydriv]

In truth Tom, removing the tank is not a big deal so you may have over-simplified a fairly simple procedure. :sidelaugh:

I just did not want him to conclude that removing the rear panel would be all that's necessary to extract the tank. It' s a bit more involved but what's a few bolts between friends? :thumbsup: :trink:

 

[Bill.H]

Thanks, Tom!
It still sounds pretty simple and not a major project. I've already purchased 6' of line, some clamps, and a fuel filter. Might as well get to it.

Question, why a spring clamp instead of a gear clamp? And just at the tank or the whole line?

Also, for what it's worth, I suspect that as we see more and more ethanol in our gasoline, we'll have to look closer at what type of fuel line to use. (I have 30R7 instead of 30R9 because of cost, I hope I don't regret that) Perhaps this could be an item for our FAQ section?

 

[GoldenCove]

I think it took me less than an hour to do the job and I have a limited set of tools compared to most. If it were not for forums like this one I would not even attempt some of the repairs and maintenence that I have done on my 446. Help is usually only a few keystokes away! :ugeek:

 

[Hydriv]

Thanks, Tom!
It still sounds pretty simple and not a major project. I've already purchased 6' of line, some clamps, and a fuel filter. Might as well get to it.

Question, why a spring clamp instead of a gear clamp? And just at the tank or the whole line?

Also, for what it's worth, I suspect that as we see more and more ethanol in our gasoline, we'll have to look closer at what type of fuel line to use. (I have 30R7 instead of 30R9 because of cost, I hope I don't regret that) Perhaps this could be an item for our FAQ section?

Spring clamps apply an even tension all the time. If the rubber line shrinks with age, the spring clamp has the ability to adjust to those changes and keep the hose clamped against the fitting. Gear clamps get tightened to a certain amount and then stay at that setting. If anything changes, they cannot change due to the design.

Gear clamps have their uses but when it comes to fuel lines OR low pressure hydraulic lines, there are better types of clamps.

On the gasoline hose situation???? I'm Canadian....I don't have those fuel problems. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

Yes..... that's something that's on my list to look into because like you, I see it as an issue just like the Onan composite floats.

 

[ByCo]

To add to what Tom said, hose manufactures prefer spring clamps because they apply equal pressure around the complete surface, gear clamps will have low or no pressure in the spot on the clamp where the strap feeds into the gear. When gear clamps are over tighted, as most of them are, they actually cut into the hose and can even crush the nipple. You'd be amazed at the things you see working in the aftermarket auto parts business for ten+ years. LOL

 

[Hydriv]

The reason I did not state those things is because Jack said I'm not allowed to discuss nipple crushing on this forum.

 

[saintstephen]

Well,
the motor lost it's power trying to move 3 to 4" of ice crusted snow. Wouldn't deliver power at anything above idle. Enough torque at idle to do the job, albeit slowly. Gas line delivers plenty of gasoline (don't ask me how I know). It seems to try to die belching black smoke (rich?). I'm not of a mind to tear into the motor with our upcoming 10 degree weather (garage not heated), so perhaps I'll just idle through the rest of the season pushing snow and investigate more this spring.
Ah well, it was a deal anyhow, and driving slowly up and down the drive is significantly nicer than shoveling.
ss

 

[robynrj]

I'd check point gap and if pitted. possible condenser? be sure push rod for points clean, not sticky. have you changed spark plug? Bob M