[JSB Case]

Hi guys,

My recently purchased (currently non-running) 646 is still on the trailer. I put the transaxle in neutral and then removed the bucket, weight box and wheel weights. The thing will not budge. Tried using a come-a-long and it just drags the machine and destroys anything that I use for an anchor point. Am I missing something here? What can I do to make this thing roll? I plan on a complete tear down, but hopefully not in my driveway! Any suggestions are welcomed.

 

[mikebramel]

Mine rolls right along in neutral. Did you try jacking the back end of it up to see if the wheels turn freely

 

[Nutcase446]

A couple things come to mind. If it has been sitting for a long time the brake band could by stuck to the drum. Also, it's not unusual for there to be water in the transaxle. This time of year in New Hampshire it's more likely to be a solid than a liquid. Gregg

 

[JSB Case]

Mine rolls right along in neutral. Did you try jacking the back end of it up to see if the wheels turn freely

I haven't tried the jack yet because it is on the wood deck of my trailer. I will see if I can brace the jack somehow and give it a try.

Thanks.

 

[Hydriv]

If it rolled freely onto your trailer in mild weather and sat until the temps dropped to sub-freezing numbers for days on end, then the above mentioned water-in-transaxle condition is the number one culprit. This would be especially true if it refused to move in either direction.

If you were in above-freezing conditions, then broken bolts in the transaxle would number one and I would caution you to NOT move this unit unless you hoisted the rear axle off the ground with another FEL to get it off the trailer.

Your current problem can be cured by this way. Put a small heater or even a 100 watt light bulb into a trouble lamp and place it under the transaxle. Cover the back end of the tractor with a tarp that drapes all the way to the bed of the trailer and use items to weight it down. Place old blankets on top of the tarp to act as insulation and then tarp it a second time to keep the blankets dry. Plug in the heater or trouble lamp and leave it for a few days. There's more than enough heat to gently warm the transaxle enough to melt the ice.

Once melting has taken place, you need to put this tractor into your garage/shop and drain that trans-axle and see what comes out. Most likely, you will have to remove the top cover and flush the goop out. Put the tractor on axle stands. Pour clean diesel fuel into it. Start the tractor and with the shifter in Lo range, push the travel lever into FWD and apply pedal pressure to get the gears rotating and washing themselves. Drain and repeat if necessary.

Check the gasket. Replace or use silicone gasket to seal the cover. You can use 20W50 motor oil to refill the transaxle. Three quarts will do it.

 

[ByCo]

You could also get a magnetic block heater and stick it to the bottom of the axle. I know that Kat's make a couple of sizes and I sure that others do to.

 

[JSB Case]

If it rolled freely onto your trailer in mild weather and sat until the temps dropped to sub-freezing numbers for days on end, then the above mentioned water-in-transaxle condition is the number one culprit. This would be especially true if it refused to move in either direction.

When I picked the tractor up, the seller had a fork lift. It made easy work of loading the tractor, but I never got to see if the transaxle moved freely or not. I will do some more investigation tonight and report what I find.

Thanks.

 

[Nutcase446]

You can pull the drain plug and see what comes out. A machine doesn't have to sit very long before the water and oil seperate and the water goes to the bottom. If water is the problem nothing will come out (until it thaws). Gregg

 

[Hydriv]

Transaxle bolt breakage is a well-known problem. If your tractor has that malady, then do not attempt to move this tractor unless the rear wheels are suspended. Pieces of broken bolts often get jammed between the large Lo gear and the housing. This can cause the housing to break open, allowing the oil to drain out. The broken bolts are no big deal, price-wise but you must dismantle the entire rear end to replace them. Since you have been forced to take that step, it is considered a wise move to install ALL new seals and new axle bushings if the slightest bit of free play is detected.

 

[JSB Case]

UPDATE

I pulled the drain and fill plugs in the transaxle and found evidence of ice in both. So, the tractor is still on the trailer. BUT, the trailer is now parked in my heated garage.

I'm not sure how I managed it, but my $500 trailer with an $800 project tractor has displaced my wife's $47k Tahoe! If that is not magic, then I ask you what is?

The major disassembly will begin tonight, but I'm not going to rush with the transaxle. I'll give it plenty of time to thaw.

Thanks for the help guys, I'm sure I will need more soon.

 

[NutCase2]

Is that turkey thawed yet? :thumbsup:

 

[JoeyB]

I see that JSB Case was able to thaw out the ice in the transaxle, so this is a little late for him, but if anyone ever needs a safe but quick way to heat something like a transaxle, frozen parking brake on drum brakes etc., an air popcorn popper works great. I use them at work (masonry) when I need to keep recently laid stone or block from freezing over night. They circulate the hot air, there is no open flame and they are not hot enough to catch things on fire (they can melt some plastic tarps), and they don't cause electrical circuits to blow or auto shut off like some space heaters do. I can find them at thrift stores for around $2.00 a piece.

 

[Hydriv]

Do you have to pop corn at the same time? If so, does one brand and flavor work better than the others?

 

[JoeyB]

When I pull them out on the jobsite, everyone gets excited...mmm popcorn....aw...

 

[JSB Case]

The transaxle thawed last night. After I put it in neutral, it would roll very easily. The wife has her parking spot in the garage back and the tractor made it off the trailer safely. Thanks for the guidance guys.

The disassembly is well under way now. I have all of the easy stuff removed, but the loader arms are giving me some trouble. The pins, collars and pistons are removed, but I can't get the arm assembly rod to move. I gave everything a good PB Blaster bath and I'll try again tomorrow. Any hints, tricks or advice?