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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few months back I posted about my hydraulic lines leaking. I was able to change the short line that is easily accessible but the long line that goes up to the tank is still dripping and need to be replaced. Someone posted that it is easier to unbolt the engine and shift it forward to gain better access to the hose seeing it is located way up in the dash and hard to reach.
After I took off my snowcaster yesterday (only used 4 times all year in Buffalo!) I was able to get a better look at how the engine is mounted to the frame. It appears to me that it is held down by (4) bolts. Is there anything else that needs to be disconnected? Any tips or other suggestions that I need to be aware of? Pictures always help! Thanks.
Eric
 

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Will you please excuse me for having to slap you around a bit in my reply? :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

You have not told us what model tractor, what year or the PIN. Therefore, I am forced to guess at those things because the repair shop is still waiting for parts to fix my crystal ball. :lol: :lol:

Presumably, you have a tractor that was built before 1977 and it has the oil reservoir mounted over the oil cooler. If you have an Onan powered tractor, then the engine is bolted to the frame in four spots and there are rubber pucks just below the frame rails that allow the frame to flex without breaking off the mounting tabs on the oil pan. If you have a 1972 or earlier 442 or 444, then there are four bolts that come UP through the frame rail and thread directly into the cast iron oil pan on the Kohler engine.

Either way, just unbolt the two cap screws that secure the pump to the pump mounting bracket and slide the engine forward after removing the engine bolts, fuel line, PTO clutch, throttle/choke cables and wire going to the coil and starter etc. It is important that you purchase proper suction line of the right diameter from a hydraulics supply dealer. It is equally important that you use the proper clamps to secure the hose. The el-cheapo worm or gear clamps found at Home Depot etc are a poor choice. Case chose flat-band clamps with a machine screw that pulled the band tight because these clamps don't rip up the hose. If you don't know what I'm talking about, then here is a link you can use.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hose-clamps/=gmaprs

There are a few other types that also won't wreck the hose but these work well and are inexpensive.

Make sure that the metal spigot on your oil tank is not the true cause of the oil loss. Oil leaks are often tricky to pin down because even tiny seepage will run downward, accumulate first and then drip....making you think that the problem is at the drip point and not above it.
 

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If I'm not mistaken the hose that runs from the tank to the pump is application specific. It's formed a certain way to make the bend from the tank and then again to the pump.

It's probably reasonably priced if ordered from Brian Hildreth.
 

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On pages 49 and 50 of this parts manual

http://www.eastmanind.com/LinkClick.asp ... &tabid=196

are pictorials of the hydraulic systems used for the 226's.

In my opinion, hoses 14 and 20 are both moulded and should be purchased from either of our two resident Ingersoll dealers. Their contact information can be found here.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=887

Just click on the red icon.

I would not suggest trying to substitute regular suction line that is sold by the foot for this application. Ingersoll would not have gone to the added expense of using moulded hoses if regular hose would have done the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
From the research I have done hose 20 (1'') is a molded hose but hose 14 and 25 (3/4'') are not. It is hard to tell where it is leaking because it is just one greasy slimy mess going on up in there, and with it being such a tight area there is no way to find out for sure until I dive deeper into it.
 

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My simple opinion is to change then all while you are in there. Its called preventive maintenance. Replace the hose clamps too and dont buy cheap shit either. Oh and now is good time to replace that fluid too. Spring time is right around the corner and now is a great time for everyone to go over their tractors and do some good ol PM work on them. If you do order hoses from one of the dealers here then consider ordering a few things in one order so that you can save on shipping. Look over your tractor as well as your manual and see if there is anything your tractor needs like belts, hoses, spark plug(s), filters, etc.
 

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burrhoes said:
From the research I have done hose 20 (1'') is a molded hose but hose 14 and 25 (3/4'') are not. It is hard to tell where it is leaking because it is just one greasy slimy mess going on up in there, and with it being such a tight area there is no way to find out for sure until I dive deeper into it.
I can only suggest that you ask one of the dealers as to whether or not hose 14 is moulded. IF it is not moulded, then this is available in either 1" or 3/4" sizes from Northern Tool.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200395409
 

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I'm going to be ordering a complete set of clamps for my 1984 226. When I do I'll post the part number, sizes and quantity needed. Maybe this information would be useful for a sticky thread of some sort?
Anyway... Thanks. this thread was helpful. :thumbup:
 

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check for coiled reinforcment wire for hoses,mine was apart over a year,got new hoses and put on tractor day i received them,week later picked up old hose and seen wire in it,had to pull short hose off again to install,least i caught it - good luck- Kyle
 

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tss8690 said:
All,

I am planning to replace most of the hoses on the 448 that I'm working on and was planning on using the Easy-to-Install bolt hose clamps from McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hose-clamps/=gmoiz5
(link above doesn't go directly to the product I mentioned)

Any thoughts? Good/bad choice?
Thanks - Tim
McMaster's web site doesn't allow for easy linking, part numbers help*. But I looked at Easy-to-Install Bolt Hose Clamps and noticed that they require a metric tool to tighten. The T-Bolt Hose and Tube Clamps use 7/16". So unless you have a good selection of metric tools, be aware of this.

*Note for geeks: if you know how, look at the link to a part number, it will look like "http://www.mcmaster.com/#5462K46" (where 5462K46 is the part number). That link will get you to the catalog page for that part number which will list all sizes of that type of clamp.
 

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Bill.H said:
tss8690 said:
All,

I am planning to replace most of the hoses on the 448 that I'm working on and was planning on using the Easy-to-Install bolt hose clamps from McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hose-clamps/=gmoiz5
(link above doesn't go directly to the product I mentioned)

Any thoughts? Good/bad choice?
Thanks - Tim
McMaster's web site doesn't allow for easy linking, part numbers help*. But I looked at Easy-to-Install Bolt Hose Clamps and noticed that they require a metric tool to tighten. The T-Bolt Hose and Tube Clamps use 7/16". So unless you have a good selection of metric tools, be aware of this.

*Note for geeks: if you know how, look at the link to a part number, it will look like "http://www.mcmaster.com/#5462K46" (where 5462K46 is the part number). That link will get you to the catalog page for that part number which will list all sizes of that type of clamp.
Thanks Bill. I did notice the remark about the metric bolt head size. Fortunately, I have plenty of metric tools (essential items when repairing road bikes and B&S Vanguard motors :thumbsup: )
 

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Here is what I ordered for clamps to use on my 1984 226.
Description Ordered:
Qty. 2 - 5462K51
Type 304 Stainless Steel Easy-to-Install Bolt Clamp,
1-7/16" to 1-9/16" Clamp Diameter Range, 25/32" Band Width

Qty. 4 - 5462K46
Type 304 Stainless Steel Easy-to-Install Bolt Clamp,
1-1/16" to 1-5/32" Clamp Diameter Range, 45/64" Band Width

Applicable shipping charges will be added.
McMaster-Carr Supply Company.
 

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Go with this part number... 5443K19 and size... 1 5/16"-1 7/16" for the bigger hose clamps. The one I listed earlier works but is not correct in size as it is slightly on the big size. I have to tighten the clamp to the end for it to work. I measured my old hose for the size and it was stretched which gave me a wrong measurement.
Thank you to a very observant member here who brought it to my attention. :thumbup:
 
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