Will you please excuse me for having to slap you around a bit in my reply? :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:
You have not told us what model tractor, what year or the PIN. Therefore, I am forced to guess at those things because the repair shop is still waiting for parts to fix my crystal ball. :lol: :lol:
Presumably, you have a tractor that was built before 1977 and it has the oil reservoir mounted over the oil cooler. If you have an Onan powered tractor, then the engine is bolted to the frame in four spots and there are rubber pucks just below the frame rails that allow the frame to flex without breaking off the mounting tabs on the oil pan. If you have a 1972 or earlier 442 or 444, then there are four bolts that come UP through the frame rail and thread directly into the cast iron oil pan on the Kohler engine.
Either way, just unbolt the two cap screws that secure the pump to the pump mounting bracket and slide the engine forward after removing the engine bolts, fuel line, PTO clutch, throttle/choke cables and wire going to the coil and starter etc. It is important that you purchase proper suction line of the right diameter from a hydraulics supply dealer. It is equally important that you use the proper clamps to secure the hose. The el-cheapo worm or gear clamps found at Home Depot etc are a poor choice. Case chose flat-band clamps with a machine screw that pulled the band tight because these clamps don't rip up the hose. If you don't know what I'm talking about, then here is a link you can use.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hose-clamps/=gmaprs
There are a few other types that also won't wreck the hose but these work well and are inexpensive.
Make sure that the metal spigot on your oil tank is not the true cause of the oil loss. Oil leaks are often tricky to pin down because even tiny seepage will run downward, accumulate first and then drip....making you think that the problem is at the drip point and not above it.
You have not told us what model tractor, what year or the PIN. Therefore, I am forced to guess at those things because the repair shop is still waiting for parts to fix my crystal ball. :lol: :lol:
Presumably, you have a tractor that was built before 1977 and it has the oil reservoir mounted over the oil cooler. If you have an Onan powered tractor, then the engine is bolted to the frame in four spots and there are rubber pucks just below the frame rails that allow the frame to flex without breaking off the mounting tabs on the oil pan. If you have a 1972 or earlier 442 or 444, then there are four bolts that come UP through the frame rail and thread directly into the cast iron oil pan on the Kohler engine.
Either way, just unbolt the two cap screws that secure the pump to the pump mounting bracket and slide the engine forward after removing the engine bolts, fuel line, PTO clutch, throttle/choke cables and wire going to the coil and starter etc. It is important that you purchase proper suction line of the right diameter from a hydraulics supply dealer. It is equally important that you use the proper clamps to secure the hose. The el-cheapo worm or gear clamps found at Home Depot etc are a poor choice. Case chose flat-band clamps with a machine screw that pulled the band tight because these clamps don't rip up the hose. If you don't know what I'm talking about, then here is a link you can use.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hose-clamps/=gmaprs
There are a few other types that also won't wreck the hose but these work well and are inexpensive.
Make sure that the metal spigot on your oil tank is not the true cause of the oil loss. Oil leaks are often tricky to pin down because even tiny seepage will run downward, accumulate first and then drip....making you think that the problem is at the drip point and not above it.
