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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy! So, I have an Ingersoll 3016. Love it. I found a whale of deal on a Hicast 48 Case branded snowblower. I want to pull the trigger, but I want to learn how to do the modification of the mule drive to make it work. So, my questions are this:
  1. Am I correct that a Hicast 48 won't work directly out of the box on a 3016? I tried the 'what fits' chart, but I don't see the hicast, unless it goes by another name.
  2. I can find articles that say it needs to be done or you have to buy a conversion kit... But I can't find any that say how to modify the mule drive. Anyone know how to do that, or where to look?

Thoughts? Thanks!
 

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sitesjc,

"Hicast 48" is just a general name. You need to look for the silver sticker, and get the Model / PIN# to look it up on the "What Fits" link. Just recently somebody mentioned getting a longer belt and putting a twist in it so that it turns the caster in the proper direction. Just make sure the belt does not rub against it self where it cross's.

Gordy
 

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A three digit PTO accessory will not work correctly on a 4 digit GT. Although it is possible, and some people have got away with it, to reverse the belt direction by twisting the belt in the opposite direction the pulleys on the mule drive will be reversed, i.e., the fixed pulley - meant to be the 'drive side' will be on the return side, and the tensioner pulley will be the drive side. The correct approach is to either replace the mule drive with a later 4 digit style (these are still available) OR remove the welded fixing brackets for the idler arm and fixed pulley and reverse them on the opposite sides. ALSO:

1) the jackshaft on the blower itself needs to be replaced with a longer version as the pulley sits further to the left.
2) the LH jackshaft bearing needs to be removed and added to a new bracket (there is one of these currently for sale on ebay) that is bolted on to move the bearing further left to support the new jackshaft pulley position.

Most people, when they price out the changes and the time required just give up and buy the correct blower for their GT.

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A three digit PTO accessory will not work correctly on a 4 digit GT. Although it is possible, and some people have got away with it, to reverse the belt direction by twisting the belt in the opposite direction the pulleys on the mule drive will be reversed, i.e., the fixed pulley - meant to be the 'drive side' will be on the return side, and the tensioner pulley will be the drive side. The correct approach is to either replace the mule drive with a later 4 digit style (these are still available) OR remove the welded fixing brackets for the idler arm and fixed pulley and reverse them on the opposite sides. ALSO:

1) the jackshaft on the blower itself needs to be replaced with a longer version as the pulley sits further to the left.
2) the LH jackshaft bearing needs to be removed and added to a new bracket (there is one of these currently for sale on ebay) that is bolted on to move the bearing further left to support the new jackshaft pulley position.

Most people, when they price out the changes and the time required just give up and buy the correct blower for their GT.

Ray
Couple of questions:
1. When you say just replace the mule drive with the new 4 digit one, I have an extra mule drive that I'm not using. Is this a get out the welder kind of job, or just swap parts out?

2. What did you even search for to find that on ebay?
 

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Yes, you will need to cut off the two brackets from the mule drive and re-weld them as a mirror image on the opposite sides. A number of members have done that but it needs a delicate hand when cutting them off and re-positioning them. When I search on ebay I just use a generic "case ingersoll" search and look through the listings. The jackshaft can be sourced from a dealer - while you are about it you might want to buy the 19 tooth version rather than the standard 16 tooth as this will spin the auger faster and shift more snow further. The bracket can be found here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Case-Ingersol-BRACKET-part-IC-C28209/281820140209?epid=1782637737&hash=item419dca12b1:g:URcAAOSwr9VZ0pcURay
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Follow Up

Figured I'd come back and update the post just in case anyone ever stumbles across it in the same situation. So, here's where I'm at.

I did not modify the mule drive or the snowblower on purpose. I wanted to try it out as is and see how well it worked. It hasn't been without kinks, but here's what has ended up working for me, so far:
  1. Let's do the twist - I mounted the hi cast snowblower to the 3016 just fine. I put a twist in the belt that causes the blower to run the correct direction. The twist for me is between the mule's pulleys and the blower's belt wheel. As others note, this puts the pressure in the wrong place, on the tensioner not the belt's wheel. This can cause the belt to jump off/not give the blower as much power as it should have.
  2. Belt Size - I started with a 75 x 1/2" belt. It was ridiculously tight. It worked, but it made me nervous to run it that tight. I decided this was due to the twist. So, I switched to 76 x 1/2" belt.
  3. Lift - The lift bar when mounted would barely pick up the snowblower more than an inch. Not sure if this is due to a slightly different configuration on the 3000 series or what. I confirmed the blower was mounted correctly based on the book. So, I got crazy. I simply drilled a hole further up on the flat piece of the lift bar, where it mounts to the tractor. To clarify, this is the hole the you use to mount the snowblower lift arm to the tractors triangular plate. I put the new hole as close to the round pipe, while still remaining on the flattened portion as possible. This gave the blower a few extra inches of lift (it' now raises about 4-5"). This was good enough clearance for me, and I have a hilly stone filled driveway.
  4. Zippity doo dah - As others note, the belt wants to hop off due to the way the pully and tensioner are improperly configured for the 3000 series tractor. This was initially a problem. The blower worked, but under load the belt would pop off. I could have tried using the 75" belt, but that made me nervous. Instead, I simply took two zip ties, one long, one short. I put one zip tie around the mule drive, right next to where the tensioner arm's spring clips to the mule. Think of it as running parallel to the spring. I then zip tied through the big zip tie around the spring's top. In other words, the two zip ties basically ensure the spring doesn't hop off the top of the mule when the blower bogs down. Sounds crazy, but it makes a huge difference to keep that spring from popping off.

I also have motorized the tilt and swivel of the snow blower and made rocker switch controls for it :grin:. If I remember, I'll post pictures of this journey some time.

Anywho, if you're reading this, keep in mind my situation. I bought the blower for dirt cheap, and have a blade as a backup. So I could play around with it, try things, without putting a lot more money into it. I know this is crossing into 'hill-billy rigging', and my configuration is not ideal...but it works, and it throws snow plenty far. If I had a blower that was designed for the 3000 series, it would definitely be better. That said, so far the belt hopping has been minimal, the blower works, and given the cost, I'm happy.
 

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If you're happy with the performance, sounds like you have adapted the blower well enough for your need.

I used to own a Case snow caster that had been converted by the dealer to run on a newer Ingersoll tractor. Worked fine. The parts for the conversion were available as a kit from the factory in the past, maybe still are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you're happy with the performance, sounds like you have adapted the blower well enough for your need.

I used to own a Case snow caster that had been converted by the dealer to run on a newer Ingersoll tractor. Worked fine. The parts for the conversion were available as a kit from the factory in the past, maybe still are.
Yeah - I'm with you. It's good enough for me, works way better than the blade did on my property, and overall has been a good buy. We'll see if everything holds up with time, but so far, so good.
 

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sitesjc,

I'm glade you posted your results. I was meaning to post mine, they mirror yours. But my spring is tight enough with no load on it that it won't come off with out a vise grips or pry bar. It will be interesting to see how long the belt lasts, as it does have a couple 1/2 twists between the the caster and idler pulley's. I mounted a 48" L series on my 3012.

:cheers:
Gordy
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sitesjc,

I'm glade you posted your results. I was meaning to post mine, they mirror yours. But my spring is tight enough with no load on it that it won't come off with out a vise grips or pry bar. It will be interesting to see how long the belt lasts, as it does have a couple 1/2 twists between the the caster and idler pulley's. I mounted a 48" L series on my 3012.


Gordy
Interesting. Makes me wonder if mine has the wrong spring. Good luck!
 

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Interesting. Makes me wonder if mine has the wrong spring. Good luck!
Could be wrong or just stretch out some. I didn't take the belt off in this picture, but if I had the spring would hold the lever up and tight. To get the spring on or off I need to use tools to stretch it.

Motor vehicle Orange Line Gas Automotive exterior Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Automotive lighting Bumper This last picture is for others to see the extra twist this mod puts into the belt, the same twist is in the lower section not in the picture. We well see how it holds up, got about 3 hours on it and looks good yet.

:cheers:
Gordy
 
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