My 130 project
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Re: New member from Mottville New York
That's a good photo.
It appears that everything is there, including the clear plastic cap for the steering wheel.
OK.....it is your son's tractor and if he chooses to put a stack on it, that's his right. It is not what I would do nor what a large number of people I know would do. There were all kinds of tractors made that did not have a stack-type exhaust.
Your son is very fortunate to find an example that is all there. Member CaseRacer found one that was missing quite a few parts and so he decided to do something a bit different with it but he stayed with the original concept of the designers. Perhaps this thread would be of interest to him. No stack on this tractor but can he say that it isn't waaaaaaaaay cool?
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1334
There is an aftermarket replica of the OEM muffler available.
The hubcaps were chromed steel and that's why they rusted. They are no longer available from Eastman/Ingersoll. If you want to have original caps, then my advice is this. Don't do anything to them. Find out who does high quality chrome plating in your area and take them to that facility. Good chrome costs money. Good chrome entails copper plating followed by nickel plating followed by chrome plating. There is cleaning and polishing done before each plating stage. If you find a business that is used by those who restore old cars, then that is who you should use. There are lots of people out there who will do a cheap plating job but your caps will start rusting again in no time. If you try to clean them up yourself, you will make the plater's job harder and he will charge you more money to fix what you wrecked.
That's a good photo.
It appears that everything is there, including the clear plastic cap for the steering wheel.
OK.....it is your son's tractor and if he chooses to put a stack on it, that's his right. It is not what I would do nor what a large number of people I know would do. There were all kinds of tractors made that did not have a stack-type exhaust.
Your son is very fortunate to find an example that is all there. Member CaseRacer found one that was missing quite a few parts and so he decided to do something a bit different with it but he stayed with the original concept of the designers. Perhaps this thread would be of interest to him. No stack on this tractor but can he say that it isn't waaaaaaaaay cool?
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1334
There is an aftermarket replica of the OEM muffler available.
The hubcaps were chromed steel and that's why they rusted. They are no longer available from Eastman/Ingersoll. If you want to have original caps, then my advice is this. Don't do anything to them. Find out who does high quality chrome plating in your area and take them to that facility. Good chrome costs money. Good chrome entails copper plating followed by nickel plating followed by chrome plating. There is cleaning and polishing done before each plating stage. If you find a business that is used by those who restore old cars, then that is who you should use. There are lots of people out there who will do a cheap plating job but your caps will start rusting again in no time. If you try to clean them up yourself, you will make the plater's job harder and he will charge you more money to fix what you wrecked.
G
Guest
·Re: New member from Mottville New York
Hi Sheldop,
Welcome to the forum. :wave: I see something that I believe will shorten the life of the engine concerning the exhaust setup. I've plumbed up several extended exhausts using galvanized pipe on Onan and Kohler engines. I've found that exhaust back pressures really jump (a lot more than one would think), especially when forced through a short radius Ell's like the one in the picture. Water pipe has a lot of drag internally at the joints. Regular exhaust pipe is very smooth internally and utilizes long radius curves. I think that setup is going to make the engine run hotter than normal. Personally, I would go to a larger size pipe. I can't tell exactly what size is on there now, but looks to be one inch. If it is 1", I would go to at least 1.5" or even 1.75 inch. Getting rid of exhaust is pretty important, especially on air cooled engines. Also, please be aware that pipe poses a significant burn hazard and will take several layers of hide off an arm or hand if it's touched, even 20-30 minutes after the engine is shut down! :shock:
What do you think Hydriv?
Mark (abxjetmech)
Hi Sheldop,
Welcome to the forum. :wave: I see something that I believe will shorten the life of the engine concerning the exhaust setup. I've plumbed up several extended exhausts using galvanized pipe on Onan and Kohler engines. I've found that exhaust back pressures really jump (a lot more than one would think), especially when forced through a short radius Ell's like the one in the picture. Water pipe has a lot of drag internally at the joints. Regular exhaust pipe is very smooth internally and utilizes long radius curves. I think that setup is going to make the engine run hotter than normal. Personally, I would go to a larger size pipe. I can't tell exactly what size is on there now, but looks to be one inch. If it is 1", I would go to at least 1.5" or even 1.75 inch. Getting rid of exhaust is pretty important, especially on air cooled engines. Also, please be aware that pipe poses a significant burn hazard and will take several layers of hide off an arm or hand if it's touched, even 20-30 minutes after the engine is shut down! :shock:
What do you think Hydriv?
Mark (abxjetmech)
I agree. In 1976, Case moved the exhaust systems under the hood to remove the hazard of the hot exhaust. Many people, including children, have been badly burned.
I also agree that back-pressure is an important issue for engine longevity.
Exhaust stacks on a working garden tractor are a bad idea, IMO. They can get hit by low hanging branches and that can cause a lot of damage to the tractor and/or the engine. They often put exhaust fumes right in the spot where you are breathing. Not good for your health. If they are unmuffled, then that noise is bad for your hearing.
I also agree that back-pressure is an important issue for engine longevity.
Exhaust stacks on a working garden tractor are a bad idea, IMO. They can get hit by low hanging branches and that can cause a lot of damage to the tractor and/or the engine. They often put exhaust fumes right in the spot where you are breathing. Not good for your health. If they are unmuffled, then that noise is bad for your hearing.
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1,801 Posts
Exhaust is 1 1/8" OD.
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204 Posts
Hydrive,
Can you provide a contact for the repro mufflers for the 130? I need brackets and all.
thanks
Can you provide a contact for the repro mufflers for the 130? I need brackets and all.
thanks
Sorry Bill but you must not have checked out the Library recently. We now have a complete set of service manuals that were issued specifically for the 130/180 tractors. Jennifer needs to go there and select the one that deals with steering issues. Jen's tractor uses a Ross steering box that was also used by several other brands in the 60's. Parts are available for it.Bill.H said:
Buying the aftermarket OEM style exhaust system is the best solution for this tractor. It will reduce the amount of noise and the danger from burns. It bolts right onto the engine and is properly braced so it won't put stress on the exhaust port in the block.
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1,801 Posts
I don't think there is a complete aftermarket exhaust for the 130-180. I know that Jim D. sells a replacement muffler that is pretty close. The pipe going into the engine block clamps onto a nipple. The support Tom is talking about comes off of the U Bolt that attaches the muffler pipe to the muffler. It then attaches to the engine block.Hydriv said:
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